yellow_cad

Does anyone have a source for 12mm x 1.5 mm male thread fuel tank petcock? I need one for my OSSA MAR. Thanks, Jim

Thanks, I do use ATF, and sufficient free play, but not sure what you are referring to regarding level. So, you're saying to pop it in 3rd or 4th after it is running with the clutch lever disengaged and leave the clutch lever disengaged or not?

I have a 1974 Ossa MAR. If it sits for any period then the kick start lever will not kick freely to clear the clutch. I let it sit for days with the clutch lever clamped to disengage the clamp. It still doesn't kick free so I read on this board some time back that one way of dealing with this problem is to put the front wheel up against the wall and then start the bike. I did this and even though the clutch was not free, when I started the bike it ran as if the clutch was disengaged. What am I missing here? I need to take it somewhere to ride it and do any shifting so I haven't (I'm 73 yrs old so lots of trial and error is hard work). With it up against the wall with it running should I then try to put it in gear and if so, what gear should I try first? Thanks for any help on this. Jim

I use F type atf in the gear box, but every year my clutch gets very stuck. Any ideas for getting it unstuck right now and keeping it from sticking each winter would be greatly appreciated. Thanks

Thanks Woody.

My question is about the drive chain tensioner that pushes up on the chain and provides a tight wrap of the chain on the rear sprocket. The rubber pad that contacts the chain is attached to a steel lever that is somewhat spring loaded. There is an additional spring that attaches to the frame and goes down to the tensioner lever. This second spring was disconnected when I got this bike and the rubber has hardly any use at all. Should this second spring be connected by hooking to the bottom of the steel tensioner lever? If it should be attached, should I lube the rubber with, say, silicone spray? Thanks for any help on this. Jim

Potassium is great for normal blood pressure and is great in the diet but calcium and magnesium are the elements needed by the muscles and magnesium is usually the one missing.

Asprin kills all of your vitamin C. Better yet, take 1/8 of a teaspoon of Epsom Salt in just enough water to dissolve it. It magnesium sufate and provides muscles with their needed magnesium so they don't cramp. Take before trialing and there should be no cramps. If you still cramp then you are sadly lacking in magnesium and can build it up over time. Shell fish and green leafy vegetables are food sources of magnesium.

At what stage in your process do you actually bend the aluminum?

I have a 72 OSSA MAR. Do I want it in first gear to try the short controlled wheelie to get up on an object?

How about a uni-cycle. I picked up a used on for $100 and I am trying to work it into my schedule.

Is there any place in the Western US where vintage trials are laid out as they were 40 years ago so the motorcycle is moving pretty much all of the time? More a momentum thing than a point and shoot type exercise. Out of more general interest, are trials done that way anywhere in the world today?

Amazon books online in the USA has it for used for $9 plus shipping. You should check and see if they will ship to you. Jim

I have a 72 OSSA MAR. When I look in the literature I have for 72 OSSAs (hard and electronic), they don't list the MAR. Which model is the closest to the MAR: Pioneer Plonker/Explorer Super Pioneer/Phantom Thanks, Jim

My clutch sticks when not running and can usually be broken free but once in a while it is pretty stuborn. Would there be anything wrong with elastic or something to keep the clutch lever pulled while the bike sits so the clutch doesn't have the opportunity to stick. I saw that suggested for cars and wondered if it would be OK with the clutch springs on the OSSA. Thanks for any thought on this. Jim

I want to lower the footpegs. The bottom of the pegs in the new position would be just above the skidpad level so the pegs will only be 1 1/2 or 2 inches lower. My question is about the affect this would have on operating the rear brake pedal. In the current position for the pegs, it seems like I am reaching down for the brake pedal but don't know if reaching up is good. Is there a way to modify the brake pedal. It is so well protected now. Any thoughts on this would be greatly appreciated.

I got the OSSA World clutch springs that are softer than stock. Seems like I should be able simply just to replace one spring at a time with the primary cover off, readjust my clutch, and I'm on my way. I'm just checking to see if that method is fine. Thanks for any thoughts. Jim

Thanks. I understand that the clutch sticking and the motor not running are not connected. I guess I was just asking if I could bread the clutch loose without the help of the motor running and I believe you are telling me that I can using the method you suggest. Thanks again and I'll give it a try.

I have a 72 OSSA MAR. It has run but right now it doesn't want to start at all. I have gas and spark so I plan to take it to a friend that has a power starter to get it going. Unfortunatley, my clutch is sticking at the same time. I have asked on this board about both of these issues but since they are occurring together, it seems like a whole different situation is happening. My question is, how can I start my OSSA on a power starter if the clutch is sticking or is there a way to get the clutch freed without the motor running. If the bike is in neutral, the clutch is not keeping the motor from freely going round when I crank the kickstart lever so is the clutch actually sticking? When the bike is in gear (motor off), it will not roll as expected, but when you pull the clutch lever while in gear, it still will not roll freely. When I remove the clutch rod inspection plate, I see the clutch moving as would be expected. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Jim

Thanks, it was my tank dissolving a whole lot faster than I thought it could. I sloshed the tank with Caswell epoxy tank sealer. Now I am having issues getting it going but at least the tank is no longer the culprit.

I checked the plug both ways: out against the cylinder head and also under compression with an inline light that lights with a spark (has a male at one end and female at the other and made for this test). I'm not sure of a good way to tell if the spark is strong enough. I see it but I am not totally sure what it should look like when of the correct strength.

Thanks for the ideas guys. Plug is wet and plug has a spark. I went through the carb one more time and everything is clear. Carb is full of fuel. I've tried choke, no choke, starter fluid, etc and still can't even get a cough.

Trying to clean up some of my cables on my 72 OSSA MAR. Had the clutch cable off and now the lever even with lots of movement on the clutch activating lever on the case will not disengage the clutch. It is like something is not correct with the clutch actuating rod. I believe there is a ball in there but not sure where it is or if it could have fallen out. Any thoughts would be appreciated. Jim in Folsom, CA

But it was just running two weeks ago even with a cruddy tank. I see spark. It won't even hiccup with starter fluid. I did nothing but slosh the tank, clean the carb really good, and change the plug.

I have a 72 OSSA MAR. I just got it and it ran pretty good. I knew I was going to slosh the gas tank but thought I could run it a bit before the slosh came in the mail, etc. In short, I ran it one weekend and the throttle was sticking pretty bad so I knew it was time. I sloshed the tank with Caswell epoxy coating and while the slosh was setting up (total bike sat was two weeks) I cleaned the carb which had lots of fiberglass goo but is now spotless. Also the plug had a thin fiberglass film baked on. Now new plug, clean carb and it won't even cough. Before it at least tried to start first kick. Do you think that goo is causing some problem with the rings or what. I had a 4 stroke (Norton Commando) that had sticking throttle problems from a fiberglass gas tank when I got it and it ran fine after I sloshed the tank. Is there something about 2 strokes that could be causing it not to fire at all. It has spark and the carb is as clean as a whistle. Do you think it would start if I took it to a friend that has a power starter just to get it running and adjusted? Thanks for any help on this, Jim