steve_e

Waltham Chase Club runs a youth and wobbler series on Saturdays, there will be 6 rounds 4 at Hut Hill, Chandlers Ford & 2 at Ryedown Lane near Romsey. Youth & adults. 1st Round is 31st march 2012 at Hut Hill. See The club website for the rest of the dates. The trial starts at 2pm and you can turn up early around 12 and practice in the woods before the trial. You will need to sign on before riding to comply with insurance and no riding in the sections before the trial starts for odvious reasons. You will need a current ACU licence and be a club member (you can join on the day). Help with setting out the sections will be appriciated, If you have never set out a section before someone will show you the ropes. The trial will consist of 6 sections and we normally do 6 laps. We will be running 5 routes this year: Orange, Yellow, White, Red/Blue & Green. The orange route will be classed as the E route for raw beginners and the osset electric bikes. This is a good series for practise & routes are set out slightly easier so riders can get experience moving up a group. More experienced riders will be on hand at times to give advice and tips. There will be an expert route set out hard (ish) but SAFE so the normal B route (red and blue) riders can give themselves more of a challenge with less risk of getting hurt. Current regular expert riders will ride the same route but will have their own elite class to make it fair for the new riders trying out the expert route. Visit walthamchasetrials co uk for more details and dates.

www.betatrialuk.com/content/view/64/51/[/img] heres a link to the info. My beta has the rare faint knock & Im running higher than standard compression, Have my timing advanced & I'm running leaner jets all to make it perform like a wild animal!!!

Hi, I would do some investigating first before ruling out the bike. In the extreme case the main bearings could be gone this COULD Take out the big end and COULD score the barrel but unless its really bad (as you can not rebore as an oversize piston is not avaliable) the barrel can be re plated for about 90 quid. I have done main seals on many different trial bikes from yamahas, betas etc and had no problems with other damage, Usually it has happened because the bike has been standing for a long time or the wrong gearbox oil has been used. Find out the symptoms, If the gearbox side main goes the bike will usually start on a clean plug then die as it warms up and the oil gets thiner and enters the crankcase, causeing the plug to oil and the bike dies. Just hearing the bike run will tell you if the mains have gone. If the Flywheel side seal goes the bike is usually hard to start and will rev irraticly sometimes on its own. It's up to you at the end of the day but I would buy a trials bike that needed main seals. I would think twice if it was a crosser or enduro as they normally are knacked at that point. If the bike is cheap it is worth a gamble as at the end of the day trials bikes will break for parts for more than a whole bike is worth normally.

Hi, Start With The Basics, Might be worth checking all the connections at the multiplugs. The spade connector that goes to the coil can be troublesome replace it with a new crimp as it usualy corrodes where the wire goes into the terminal. And finally check the spark plug cap has a good connection with the coil ht lead. Check the body of the coil has a good earth where it bolts to the frame. Have had the same problem and turned out to be the low tension wire on the coil. Lucky i noticed it at the last min as i was blaming the stator at first and nearly sent it off for a rewind.

Pilot jet is 30 standard with a 150 main. Sounds like your bike COULD be running lean or the timing is too far advanced. The odd knock is noting to worry about though on a beta, Probably piston slap. Look on the beta website technical information for the timing setting pic. Changing to the factory spec jets 27.5 pilot and 145 main will transform the bike. Actually come to think of it it may be running lean because someone has adjusted the floats to try to cure the leak from the overflow. We have played with many betas to try to cure this and the only solution is to leave the floats 1.5mm above level and live with the odd leak when the bike is leaned over. There is info about the mikuni carb fix to stop the leak but this starves the bike, and kills initial throttle response, Lots of people rave about it because it stops the leaking but they are not mechanically minded enough to realise the symptoms of it running lean after. This is just my experience don't take it as gospel do what works for you.