cord

Thanks, so headlight off, and connect it to the horn. Brliiant, easier than i thought!!

I'm fussy with gloves, and have tried the heatpacks to no avail. I get what your saying about clutch/brake finger, thats the 1 that struggles, am hoping a warm bar will be enough to defrost it. Are you being serious, i can really drive it from the horn wiring? I've ridden the 4ride in sub zero temps several times, and never had starting issues. It's used more for technical single track than trials type stuff.

Has anyone fitted heated grips to a 4ride (or a 4RT assuming they are the same) ? Splat shop do some sticky back heated elements that you then slip normal grips over the top, it says they consume 36W, will my 4 ride have enough power to drive them? And where am i best tapping into the wiring loom to take the feed?

cheers, looks like nothing has changed in a good few years.

Does anyhone know anything about the 2025 4ride? I have a '16 that i absolutely love, and fancy treating myself to a brand new one. A few UK dealers don't have any 2024's left in stock, and they are waiting for the '25 model. I've no idea what (if anything) has changed.

New filter fitted. Bike is an absolute dream to start now.

Yep, the gauze is housed in a plastic cylinder that clips (or not!) on to the base of the pump. It has simple fallen off. I’m going to mechanically fix it in place, or maybe epoxy bond. I’ll tackle that when my new filter arrives. I’ll also cut the old filter open to see just how much dirt it has caught.

Found this fuel pressure info on another thread. Pressure when starting 0.7 bar (without spark plug) with engine running 2.7 all the time, no matter which rpm But before i go any deeper, my fuel filter seems to have seen better days, and the pre-filter gauze had fallen off and was in bottom of the tank. I've got a new filter on it's way, i shall report back!

Unfortunately i dont have a manual, hence asking if anyone knew the correct pressure. And as far as i know it doesn't have a battery, ao i assume there is some sort of capacitor somehwere? I'm fine with mechanics, but electrickery is not my thing.

Cheers, I’ll have a look at that lot. Is there a procedure for checking fuel pressure? Or just simply T a pressure gauge in wherever I can? And any idea what it should be? Incidentally the bike runs perfect once it’s going.

Got a 2021 Combat works 250, and its really hard to start from cold. Once its hot, not problem, 1 or 2 kicks every time. I've read that i should be doing 3/4 slow kicks, then quarter throttle and kick it properley. I'm usually into about 20 kicks before it comes alive? It's got a brand new BPMR4A plug in (previously a 6 but same symptoms). Fuel is super unleaded with 30ml (170:1) of rock oil. Any ideas?

Has anyone changed sprocket size on their 4ride? Currently i have 10/41 (which i think is stock) Bike doesn't relly get used for "trials" riding, more for really technical trail and woods riding. I think i can sacrifice a touch of slow speed, to make the ride between sections a little more pleasant. I was thinking of changing to 11/41, but not really sure how big a real world effect 1 tooth at the front is. Also, i'd like a steel rear sprocket, but evertyhting i see for sale is aimed at 4RT and therefore weight is key and they are all aluminium.

Hi, can i get a copy please. cord1976@gmail.com Cheers

I've got a pair of Maxxis Trialmax on mine. Almost as much grip as Michelin x11's on rocks (certainly dry ones, not qiuite as good in the wet) more grip in soil/mud and so far have lasted easily twice what my last rear X11 did. Thoroughly recommended. Editted to add. I did have to glue the rear on tho, i noticed it was turning on the rim slightly, and being tubeless there is no rim lock.

I fit 1 litre in a round metal climbing style fuel can under the seat in mine, plus tools and a butty. The shifter is just the same as a stadard 4RT, I've often thought of buying the S3 lever kit, but never got round to it, i just use it as is.