cord

New filter fitted. Bike is an absolute dream to start now.

Yep, the gauze is housed in a plastic cylinder that clips (or not!) on to the base of the pump. It has simple fallen off. I’m going to mechanically fix it in place, or maybe epoxy bond. I’ll tackle that when my new filter arrives. I’ll also cut the old filter open to see just how much dirt it has caught.

Found this fuel pressure info on another thread. Pressure when starting 0.7 bar (without spark plug) with engine running 2.7 all the time, no matter which rpm But before i go any deeper, my fuel filter seems to have seen better days, and the pre-filter gauze had fallen off and was in bottom of the tank. I've got a new filter on it's way, i shall report back!

Unfortunately i dont have a manual, hence asking if anyone knew the correct pressure. And as far as i know it doesn't have a battery, ao i assume there is some sort of capacitor somehwere? I'm fine with mechanics, but electrickery is not my thing.

Cheers, I’ll have a look at that lot. Is there a procedure for checking fuel pressure? Or just simply T a pressure gauge in wherever I can? And any idea what it should be? Incidentally the bike runs perfect once it’s going.

Got a 2021 Combat works 250, and its really hard to start from cold. Once its hot, not problem, 1 or 2 kicks every time. I've read that i should be doing 3/4 slow kicks, then quarter throttle and kick it properley. I'm usually into about 20 kicks before it comes alive? It's got a brand new BPMR4A plug in (previously a 6 but same symptoms). Fuel is super unleaded with 30ml (170:1) of rock oil. Any ideas?

Has anyone changed sprocket size on their 4ride? Currently i have 10/41 (which i think is stock) Bike doesn't relly get used for "trials" riding, more for really technical trail and woods riding. I think i can sacrifice a touch of slow speed, to make the ride between sections a little more pleasant. I was thinking of changing to 11/41, but not really sure how big a real world effect 1 tooth at the front is. Also, i'd like a steel rear sprocket, but evertyhting i see for sale is aimed at 4RT and therefore weight is key and they are all aluminium.

Hi, can i get a copy please. cord1976@gmail.com Cheers

I've got a pair of Maxxis Trialmax on mine. Almost as much grip as Michelin x11's on rocks (certainly dry ones, not qiuite as good in the wet) more grip in soil/mud and so far have lasted easily twice what my last rear X11 did. Thoroughly recommended. Editted to add. I did have to glue the rear on tho, i noticed it was turning on the rim slightly, and being tubeless there is no rim lock.

I fit 1 litre in a round metal climbing style fuel can under the seat in mine, plus tools and a butty. The shifter is just the same as a stadard 4RT, I've often thought of buying the S3 lever kit, but never got round to it, i just use it as is.

at 80kg they are fine on a Dave Cooper style rack.

I've had mine for approx 2 years. Fuel range for me is about 50 miles, (and plenty room under the seat for another litre in a bottle, and tools, and a butty!) I use mine for a bit of trials riding, and technical trail riding. For trials, it a touch big, and a touch cumbersome, but i'm crap at trials so it's never going to be the bike the holds me back, just my lack of talent. I'd happily enter a trial on it. For trail riding i find it brilliant, but most of my "trail" riding is very illegal. Down footpaths, streams, through the woods etc,,,, It's amazing for that, it's small and nimble, you just aren't getting stuck anywhere. Tyres wise i swapped to Maxxis trialmax, the knobs are a touch wider spaced, and make for more grip in the mud, and less vague at speed. On the road she's happy at 45/50mph, which is plenty to find the next "section". High speed offroad is definitely not it's thing, the suspension is short travel, and not damped correctly for following your mates on their Enduro's, don't try, i have and it hurts!!! I have high level front mudguard on mine, it's quite clay based around me, and the standard trials front mudguard could get blocked. Gear lever is a long way from foot, but S3 make a kit to move it. I also have the S3 airfilter lid thing, definitely worth having, it makes filter changes a 2 minute job. Feel free to ask me any questions, i LOVE this bike and could chat about it all day.

Cheers everyone. Spoke to a mechanic who’s worked on them long term. He confirmed that late model 315 all the way to current will actually fit, with just a few very slight variations over the years. Still can’t find 1 for sale tho!!!

Thanks everyone. I strongly suspected there was no real change. I’ll do some more homework.

Does anyone know if 4rt swingarms are year specific? Or are all years interchangeable? Cheers.

I've got the Tunelab Engine RPM app on my iphone, and compared to the MOT testing hardware is consistantly within 20rpm. Well impressed!!!!!!

Cheers, been looking at this, looks like i'll give it a blast, i too got sick of pulling it to bits for a filter swap. I've been looking at the gearshift relocation kit as well.

I've seen 2 adverts for shops selling new 4Ride Enduro version. I've had a good nibble, but can't seem to find it on the Honda/Montesa website tho?? Adverts list the changes as, Enduro specific front tyre, high level front mudguard, vented airbox, new gear shifter. I've zoomed in on the pictures and it appears that the gear change now goes through a linkage which then exits behind the frame rail. This then connects to a gear lever which appears to pivot on the footpeg. I'm hoping this will be retro fittable to my 2017. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/NEW-Montesa-4Ride-Enduro-Version-4-Ride-Green-Lane-Trails-Offroad-260cc/303173379230?hash=item46968aa49e:g:GgAAAOSwiFZc8TGw

I've been through quite a few bearings in my Montesa 4 Ride, more so than on my previous true trials bikes, i put this down to riding more streams, and LOTS of pressure washing. I think it's always slight surface rust that has begun the degradation, that's then lead to actual play in the bearing. I've swapped to Stainless bearings, so far they've lasted longer. I wouldn't say this is conclusive tho!

The gearing on the 4ride is defintely different to the 4RT. 2nd, 3rd and 4th are more evenly spaced, so there isn't the big jump from 3rd to 4th like on the 4rt. I think final drive is the same at 10:41, it will cruise at 50mph on the road, so plenty for most greenlaning. Suspension wise, the rear is the same (as far as i can tell?) The forks are 20mm longer, and have slighlty more low speed compression and rebound damping. I suppose it comes down to what type of green laning you do, if it's all about wide open throttle and fast/rough then an Enduro bike is what you want, but if the offroading you do is slower / steeper or more technincal, then for me, the 4Ride is king. I love my 4ride, honestly the most used motorbike i've ever owned. It can happily do trials sections, streams and narrow footpaths are were it excells. For the odd time i need to be pinned on a fire road in 4th, i'm happy to just go a touch slower and enjoy the scenery, that gives me more time to spot the good stuff that needs rding anyway.

Buy a Montesa 4ride!

I've got a pair on my Montesa. Rear tubeless, front tubed. They fitted no problem. On wet rocks they aren't as good as D803 or X11's, but only by a small margin. Dry rocks i can't tell any difference. I'm running 3 psi rear, 5 in the front. In the mud, they are a vast improvement, When you have traction and are riding around they definitely have a slight bit more grip, but if you break traction and spin up a trials tyre its incredibly hard to get it to bite again, the Trialmaxx still supllies drive when it's spinning, and is far easier to find grip again once you stop spinning. Sloppy mud and wet grass are where these tyres shine.

Had this problem with my 15 sherco 290. It's definetly float related, i can't remeber exaclty what was the problem (maybe flooding, but it was 3 years ago!) I sorted it by making sure float hieght was correct, tabs were allowing correct amount of float movement, and needdle/seat were shutting correctly. I think on the Splatshop blog, there is a good post with pictures showing exaclty what needs setting.

I tried 2 different front pipes from 4RT's and neither were the correct length/angle to fit my 4 ride, in the end i just chopped and welded to suit. Overall i think i had the better solution as my pipe is now extremely close to the motor making for a narrower bike. (closer to the motor than the other 4 rides i've seen on the net with a decat front pipe) Sorry, not really much help!

look for slop/play in the suspension. It is usually the ****e bushes/steel pins in the dog bones. Also air leaks from the rubber inlet between carb and reed block, the rubber splits if over tightened. (easy to fix with a smear of gasket sealant)