cord

Cheers for that, good to see some footage (of myself)! Was a brilliant trial.

Think i'm going to buy some jets for my '15 300 and have a play. I've already fiddled with float height as i've had problems with it leaking fuel. (Float wasn't shutting the valve) Currently the revs drop off on VERY steep descents, i think this is related to the float height as it can be made better by setting the fuel height lower (Is it possible fuel was spilling out of float bowl and making it excessively rich??) Also after a long hard (more than 20 seconds-ish) WOT the revs take an excessively long time to drop? Any ideas? I know very little about carbs (i was brought up with a laptop and injectors!!) so any help at all greatly appreciated.

Incase anybody else needs one, they are identical to the 4RT. Sorted

Thanks, but thats a no for all 3 of the above. Still hunting!

After a chain slider for a 315R (the rubber bit that wraps around the front of the swingarm) have tried a few shops, and scoured online but can't find one. Any ideas?

Can anyone tell me if it's possible to fit a rear brake caliper from a later model ('01 onwards) the style of caliper which is hidden behind the swing arm, to an earlier 315 (the one with the brake caliper sat higher than the swingarm. I know they both locate of a pin on the inside of the swingarm, just wondered if they are interchangeable.

If you can be bothered, NOTHING works as well as boiling in wax, it is the only way that lube can get right into the rollers, and it dries non-sticky, but it's a smelly dirty job!

My friends and I have been, simply can't recommend Stu enough, top bloke and a brilliant teacher. I've also been to another trials school, and it was good, but nothing on Stu, he really has a knack for teaching, and is brilliant at spotting what you are getting wrong. Bloody good food too!!! Get yourselves booked in!

Cheapest i found was this on eBay. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Sherco-TRIALS-2-9-2011-Lower-Rear-Shock-Bearing-and-Seal-kit-/141296887231?pt=UK_Motorcycle_Parts_13&hash=item20e5f365bf#ht_1568wt_1190 I'm using it for now, but if it wears quickly (as i suspect it will as a spherical bearing isn't really the correct application) I'll be making a pin and bush arrangement like i have for the dog bones.

After an ACL repair i've used CTi for a few years, for trials, MX, snowboarding, DH mountainbiking etc.. To be honest i feel vulnerable without it, i do have to exercise regularly (but i do forget, and then wonder why i'm wobbling!) The CTi certainly do a brilliant job of stabilising, but i have since changed to Troy Lee brace, it is the same in design and fitment of the CTi, but is SO much narrower in profile, i have to say it's light years easier to wear and use. The CTi is so wide it is always rubbing on side of frame, or rad scoops on MX bike, it is generally just big and bulky. The Troy Lee is every bit as good as a brace, but SO much easier to wear, i think the model is called Catalyst X. I use mine without the additional kneecap cup, and can't recommend it highly enough. I've used it a few times a week for over 18 months, and it's still in perfect condition. http://shop.dekalkit.se/skydd/knaskydd/troy-lee-designs-catalyst-x.html

Anybody got a better alternative to the stock lower shock bearing on a 2013 2.9? Mine is rusty/cracked/generally fit for the bin after just 10 months??? And at £52 for replacement http://trialstribulations.net/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=34_66&products_id=654 i was hoping it would have lasted longer. I've already made my own bushings and pins for the dogbones, and was wondering where else i can improve. I know it doesn't need a spherical bearing, there should only be rotational movement. What has anybody else done?

Glad it has sorted it.

Just to dig out an old thread, i also just upped the idle speed to mask the problem. However after a while the idle on mine also became erratic. It turns out the rubber on the inlet manifold starts to dry and shrink over time, peeling itself of the metal core and reed block. Stripped the inlet manifold and reed block, re-sealed with engine gasket sealant. Back together and it is a revelation! It must have been getting slowly worse and worse and i hadn't really noticed. It's like a new bike, lovely and smooth off the bottom, no hunting, and no stalling on steep descents, even with a very low idle. I think the stalling on steep descents was down to the weight shift of the carb, opening gaps and ruining the mixture. I spoke to Chris at splat shop, and confirmed all the above, apparently he's seen it a few times, and has re-sealed a few inlet manifolds. Wish i'd rung him sooner, bloody top bloke.

Having nibbled this extensively on the internet, and tried everything that was suggested for my '13 290cc. It all comes down to just speeding the idle up a bit. Simples.

Spoke to the ever helpful Birketts, turns out he'd seen this once before, it was a damaged wire where the loom goes into the airbox. Apparently some of the '11 bikes have a fairly tight fit where the loom goes into the airbox, and it is possible for the smaller wires to get damaged. Got to say i've dealt with Birketts a few times, and they always been amazing. Fan running again, i'm off out for a ride!!

oops, too late now. Anyway engine still runs!!! Still no fan tho?

Help!! The fan on my '11 Tr280 has stopped working. I've put 12v direct to the fan and it works fine, i've tried bridging the wires that go to the temp switch in the head, but still no joy. I'm less than useless when it comes to electrics, can anybody point me in the right direction to find where the problem is?

Brilliant, cheers.

Can someone measure how tall their boots are. Strange question i know, but i wear a knee brace and want a boot that finishes below it. Cheers.