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I've got the Tunelab Engine RPM app on my iphone, and compared to the MOT testing hardware is consistantly within 20rpm. Well impressed!!!!!!

Cheers, been looking at this, looks like i'll give it a blast, i too got sick of pulling it to bits for a filter swap. I've been looking at the gearshift relocation kit as well.

I've seen 2 adverts for shops selling new 4Ride Enduro version. I've had a good nibble, but can't seem to find it on the Honda/Montesa website tho?? Adverts list the changes as, Enduro specific front tyre, high level front mudguard, vented airbox, new gear shifter. I've zoomed in on the pictures and it appears that the gear change now goes through a linkage which then exits behind the frame rail. This then connects to a gear lever which appears to pivot on the footpeg. I'm hoping this will be retro fittable to my 2017. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/NEW-Montesa-4Ride-Enduro-Version-4-Ride-Green-Lane-Trails-Offroad-260cc/303173379230?hash=item46968aa49e:g:GgAAAOSwiFZc8TGw

I've been through quite a few bearings in my Montesa 4 Ride, more so than on my previous true trials bikes, i put this down to riding more streams, and LOTS of pressure washing. I think it's always slight surface rust that has begun the degradation, that's then lead to actual play in the bearing. I've swapped to Stainless bearings, so far they've lasted longer. I wouldn't say this is conclusive tho!

The gearing on the 4ride is defintely different to the 4RT. 2nd, 3rd and 4th are more evenly spaced, so there isn't the big jump from 3rd to 4th like on the 4rt. I think final drive is the same at 10:41, it will cruise at 50mph on the road, so plenty for most greenlaning. Suspension wise, the rear is the same (as far as i can tell?) The forks are 20mm longer, and have slighlty more low speed compression and rebound damping. I suppose it comes down to what type of green laning you do, if it's all about wide open throttle and fast/rough then an Enduro bike is what you want, but if the offroading you do is slower / steeper or more technincal, then for me, the 4Ride is king. I love my 4ride, honestly the most used motorbike i've ever owned. It can happily do trials sections, streams and narrow footpaths are were it excells. For the odd time i need to be pinned on a fire road in 4th, i'm happy to just go a touch slower and enjoy the scenery, that gives me more time to spot the good stuff that needs rding anyway.

Buy a Montesa 4ride!

I've got a pair on my Montesa. Rear tubeless, front tubed. They fitted no problem. On wet rocks they aren't as good as D803 or X11's, but only by a small margin. Dry rocks i can't tell any difference. I'm running 3 psi rear, 5 in the front. In the mud, they are a vast improvement, When you have traction and are riding around they definitely have a slight bit more grip, but if you break traction and spin up a trials tyre its incredibly hard to get it to bite again, the Trialmaxx still supllies drive when it's spinning, and is far easier to find grip again once you stop spinning. Sloppy mud and wet grass are where these tyres shine.

Had this problem with my 15 sherco 290. It's definetly float related, i can't remeber exaclty what was the problem (maybe flooding, but it was 3 years ago!) I sorted it by making sure float hieght was correct, tabs were allowing correct amount of float movement, and needdle/seat were shutting correctly. I think on the Splatshop blog, there is a good post with pictures showing exaclty what needs setting.

I tried 2 different front pipes from 4RT's and neither were the correct length/angle to fit my 4 ride, in the end i just chopped and welded to suit. Overall i think i had the better solution as my pipe is now extremely close to the motor making for a narrower bike. (closer to the motor than the other 4 rides i've seen on the net with a decat front pipe) Sorry, not really much help!

look for slop/play in the suspension. It is usually the ****e bushes/steel pins in the dog bones. Also air leaks from the rubber inlet between carb and reed block, the rubber splits if over tightened. (easy to fix with a smear of gasket sealant)

Cheers for that, good to see some footage (of myself)! Was a brilliant trial.

Think i'm going to buy some jets for my '15 300 and have a play. I've already fiddled with float height as i've had problems with it leaking fuel. (Float wasn't shutting the valve) Currently the revs drop off on VERY steep descents, i think this is related to the float height as it can be made better by setting the fuel height lower (Is it possible fuel was spilling out of float bowl and making it excessively rich??) Also after a long hard (more than 20 seconds-ish) WOT the revs take an excessively long time to drop? Any ideas? I know very little about carbs (i was brought up with a laptop and injectors!!) so any help at all greatly appreciated.

Incase anybody else needs one, they are identical to the 4RT. Sorted

Thanks, but thats a no for all 3 of the above. Still hunting!

After a chain slider for a 315R (the rubber bit that wraps around the front of the swingarm) have tried a few shops, and scoured online but can't find one. Any ideas?

Can anyone tell me if it's possible to fit a rear brake caliper from a later model ('01 onwards) the style of caliper which is hidden behind the swing arm, to an earlier 315 (the one with the brake caliper sat higher than the swingarm. I know they both locate of a pin on the inside of the swingarm, just wondered if they are interchangeable.

If you can be bothered, NOTHING works as well as boiling in wax, it is the only way that lube can get right into the rollers, and it dries non-sticky, but it's a smelly dirty job!

My friends and I have been, simply can't recommend Stu enough, top bloke and a brilliant teacher. I've also been to another trials school, and it was good, but nothing on Stu, he really has a knack for teaching, and is brilliant at spotting what you are getting wrong. Bloody good food too!!! Get yourselves booked in!

Cheapest i found was this on eBay. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Sherco-TRIALS-2-9-2011-Lower-Rear-Shock-Bearing-and-Seal-kit-/141296887231?pt=UK_Motorcycle_Parts_13&hash=item20e5f365bf#ht_1568wt_1190 I'm using it for now, but if it wears quickly (as i suspect it will as a spherical bearing isn't really the correct application) I'll be making a pin and bush arrangement like i have for the dog bones.

After an ACL repair i've used CTi for a few years, for trials, MX, snowboarding, DH mountainbiking etc.. To be honest i feel vulnerable without it, i do have to exercise regularly (but i do forget, and then wonder why i'm wobbling!) The CTi certainly do a brilliant job of stabilising, but i have since changed to Troy Lee brace, it is the same in design and fitment of the CTi, but is SO much narrower in profile, i have to say it's light years easier to wear and use. The CTi is so wide it is always rubbing on side of frame, or rad scoops on MX bike, it is generally just big and bulky. The Troy Lee is every bit as good as a brace, but SO much easier to wear, i think the model is called Catalyst X. I use mine without the additional kneecap cup, and can't recommend it highly enough. I've used it a few times a week for over 18 months, and it's still in perfect condition. http://shop.dekalkit.se/skydd/knaskydd/troy-lee-designs-catalyst-x.html

Anybody got a better alternative to the stock lower shock bearing on a 2013 2.9? Mine is rusty/cracked/generally fit for the bin after just 10 months??? And at £52 for replacement http://trialstribulations.net/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=34_66&products_id=654 i was hoping it would have lasted longer. I've already made my own bushings and pins for the dogbones, and was wondering where else i can improve. I know it doesn't need a spherical bearing, there should only be rotational movement. What has anybody else done?

Glad it has sorted it.

Just to dig out an old thread, i also just upped the idle speed to mask the problem. However after a while the idle on mine also became erratic. It turns out the rubber on the inlet manifold starts to dry and shrink over time, peeling itself of the metal core and reed block. Stripped the inlet manifold and reed block, re-sealed with engine gasket sealant. Back together and it is a revelation! It must have been getting slowly worse and worse and i hadn't really noticed. It's like a new bike, lovely and smooth off the bottom, no hunting, and no stalling on steep descents, even with a very low idle. I think the stalling on steep descents was down to the weight shift of the carb, opening gaps and ruining the mixture. I spoke to Chris at splat shop, and confirmed all the above, apparently he's seen it a few times, and has re-sealed a few inlet manifolds. Wish i'd rung him sooner, bloody top bloke.

Having nibbled this extensively on the internet, and tried everything that was suggested for my '13 290cc. It all comes down to just speeding the idle up a bit. Simples.

Spoke to the ever helpful Birketts, turns out he'd seen this once before, it was a damaged wire where the loom goes into the airbox. Apparently some of the '11 bikes have a fairly tight fit where the loom goes into the airbox, and it is possible for the smaller wires to get damaged. Got to say i've dealt with Birketts a few times, and they always been amazing. Fan running again, i'm off out for a ride!!