......................ha, didn't notice the date!...did a google search , for scorpa clubs in britian ...thought I'd check to see if there was any grouping s of scorppa
owners........this popped up, so I got involved with vall these posts ...you still own a sy 250?
when hot (the bike not me)...ya gotta find nuetral to push it!
actually, I've had a bit of a breakthrough here ...got new plates, took a center punch to them, greated a bunch of little craters for oil to sit in ....keeping the plates wet..this has improved drag quite a bit ..can push anything but first gear!can start clutch in ..in anything but first....so, it can be done.
but thing goes into neeetral so easily ....not a biggy...................mass
After checking the usual possibilities like air cleaner, electrical connections, water in fuel etc., you may also want to check the valve clearances if you are bumping the rev limiter often. The DOHC's will commonly recede the valves slightly with high-RPM use, enough to close up the clearances and affect cam timing/valve sealing. A lot of us "old timers" would expect the four-strokes to get noisier if clearances are off, but a lot of the modern OHC/DOHC engines actually get quieter as valve/seat wear causes clearances to get tighter rather than looser.
Jon
..........oooppps, sorry lads,about the reeds, didn't notice.its the four stroke ........masso
At a recent trial where alot of the sections were wet and muddy and required a whole load of right hand.
The problem comes right at the very top end of the revs when rather than keep reving it it just levels off and "hunts" around that rpm.
I also noticed there is air coming back through the fuel line from the carb toward the tank is this normal/the cause???
I have changed the plug and wire-locked the fuel lines to their respective attaching points to ensure no air getting in through the hoses and tried different carb settings but it still the same.
sounds like a brand new set of them fancy BOYSEN REEDS are needed!................................massso
I am about to get into trials and I decided to get a Montesa 4RT. I found a used 2005 and a used 2007, both in great condition. Being that the 2005 has seen less use than the 2007 am I missing out anything if I went for the 2005 model?
Regards,
dude...don't even bother withthe 05...get the 07 !
I did put on about 6 coats of clear. However, I used a spray bomb from an automotive store and the clear doesn't like gas. Lesson learned. I've heard conflicting reports that duplicolor clear may work well but I may get an automotive store to mix me up some proper clear coat with a catalysis. I also couldn't possibly wait the needed 6 week cure time. I'm curious what you used for clear??? I'll get a photo up soon.
I too have used canadian tire spray....good match, no ones commented on it so far....I guess I tricked them.
clear coat a must....I'm courious about the black and silver you mentioned.......photod needed .....masso
No, I went with the gear oil again. The clutch is good once I have broken it loose in the start of the ride. I usually start the bike in gear when it is warm, there is hardly any clutch dragging.
dammn!...maybe I should break down and get newer clutch plates!!
Why dont you just bite the bullet and update the entire bike and get all new plastics included in the price... a nice white and red combo is what you are looking for. Beta! You know you want one!!!
what??.....what are you doing on a SCORPA page..?.......what if someone finds you in here ?
guess who was riding ted blows evo 290 0n sunday ???
I've recently bought an 03 SY250 and don't like the white rear mudguard.
If I bought a later, blue mudguard, will the colour match the tank?
If not, how far away are the two blues?
ya, I too don't like the vwhite rear fender.....so, I went to an automotive store and found an auto retouch spray can than matched dammn close...just a littl darker...no one has commented so far .....just be sure to spray on clear coat when finished
heres what she looks like........................massso
I use 600ml of Mobil 1 full synthetic ATF. It works very well. The clutch has very fine control and doesn't stick even in freezing weather.
I've tried many oils!...theonly one I'd recommend, is MAXIM 75 wt
heres my start-up rootine........engine dead...shift up to 6th gear...lever inroll bike back and forth, this will break plates loose very fast
then I gotta get that *&^%%##@.....choke lever thingy up ....jeeez
I start engine let it warm up ...push the bike, soes its moving,then put in gear.......in a few minutes the plates will separate..then your good for rest of day
next modification is to install a new set of metal plates, that I've ''dimpled'' with a center punch ....this makes plates like golf balls ...these little indentations will retain oil..making plates not stick together, you can do same thing with roughing plates with sandpaper
will some aftermaketers please make some new plates for these bikes!!!
Was told not to bother, as theres not much in them anyway ! ......didn't need telling twice to not do something !
I have just re-sprayed the fuel tank, and finished it off with a good few layers of lacquer........was slightly orange peely, but a million times better than it was.....well, I must have spilled a drop or two when filling it up, and the petrol has eaten right through the lacquer and destroyed the finish......gutted.
Is there a specific lacquer/varnish I need to use ?
I agree with B40RT, namely that it sounds fuel-related. Good tip on tapping bowl in case of sticky float valve. Also try this: turn on fuel petcock and lean the bike on the left side at about 45 degrees. This should force more fuel into the bowl. Then stand her upright and give 'er a kick, try with and without choke.
BTW, you should measure compression before considering piston ring replacement. Just for reference, if memory serves me right (I don't have my service log nearby) mine was over 200 psi cold.
dude......put choke on......kick it twice.....come back in five minutes ..try again.....if this doesn;t work, try racing gas...works every time!
I have removed the fuel tank to prep it for a re-spray, and found that the inside on the right ( sat on bike ) has been rubbing on the engine and now has an impression of the cylinder head and bolt head melted into it....luckily its not gone through.
I purchased a fibre-glass repair kit a while ago, for repairing the mudguard,( by the way it worked brilliantly ) and was wondering if it can be used on the fuel tank to patch it up ( don't know if the resin will react with the plastic tank )....also thinking of putting a strip where the kickstart rattles against it, just to thicken it up a bit.
Should there be spacers behind the tank fixing points to stop it touching the engine, and should there be rubber over the frame ?
When placing the tank on the bike the fixing points are about a half inch away from the lugs.
Andy.
Whilst Im here, Im about to re-pack the silencer and will be trying to come up with some way of making it easy to seperate, without having to slice it in half and weld it back up again.
Will post pics if its possible...(sorry if I've missed the boat on this and somebody has already done it).
dude...I was told ,these are non-repackable silencers...some kind of mechanical/baffle type thingys...anyone know about this ???
Montesa 4rt Overheating?
in Montesa
Posted
be sure to buy yourself some of that super-coolant stuff those motocrossers use.......keep water from boiling over
you could try a cooler range spark plug ......masso