Just have to post - been on the bike four times now and it's amazing. Clutch is precise with perfect bite, no drag. Gearbox is smooth. Engine response is great, more torque than the OSSA (and the beta is just a 250!) I had before and way better power curve. (Been writing up the ossa before here on TC, now I'm actually a bit shameful about that... Don't get me wrong, the ossa is a good bike, the beta is just that much better in my opinion)
My riding confidence is on an all time high, I totally trust this bike will do what I want it to.
The main thing I miss from the Ossa is the rear shock.... There is also quite a difference in weight, the beta is quite a bit heavier to lift and move. When riding it doesn't feel heavier though.
The gearing is a bit different, the beta is slower geared in first gear - which is good for me but took some time getting used to, especially going up steps.
On the negatives - I have the clonk from the steering bearings... Seems easy to sort but a bit annoying on a new bike.
Remove & copperslip any bolts you want to undo later.
Do NOT add a front mudguard flap to your bike, it will break the mudguard and/or radiator cover.
The front mudguard is short because the tyre hits the exhaust header pipe, & the mudguard would just snap straight off.
Seal the gap under the rear mudguard between the exhaust & airbox with sikaflex.
The gear lever doesn't tighten up properly on the shaft, file a larger slot in the lever.
Take extra care when replacing the mudguard & tank cover screws, they will strip very very easily as they screw straight into the alloy frame.
Grease the head bearings & suspension linkage.
Keep a close eye on the carb overflow for fuel pouring out, adjust float level & tang if required.
Remove the little centre screw from the sidestand spring, stops the stand self retracting when you park slightly downhill.
Squirt chainlube into the rear spoke nipples to stop them siezing up.
A lot of the bolts & fixings on the bike are very poor quality & corrode very quickly, keep an eye on these & replace as they get worn or corroded.
I have needed to check the tightness of bolts more frequently than other makes, bit of threadlock on things like the kickstart will help.
Hope this helps!
Done most of your suggestions/mods today, overall I'm impressed with the bike. Linkage and wheelhubs where well greased from the factory.
Had a quick test drive and the bike feels great, heavier than my Ossa for sure. But the quality feel is much higher and I like the ergonomics better.
A bit confused on the gearing though, the bike came with a 11 teeth fitted and a 13 teeth in a box. Thought 13 was standard??? (And I was not expecting "free" optional gearing, but nice to have)
wow, that is hard to watch, I feel for the riders and observers and paying customers,
May suggest that Trialscentral reaches out to the FIM, Thierry Michaud, for a comment.
Questions I'd liked to have answered are,
1. Are you happy with the result?
2. Will there be professional observers sent to each competition to avoid subjective observing?
3. Exactly how will subjective ruling, less fascinating display of skill and lottery results (five for a stop is harsh and may in many cases judge the entire competition) sell more bikes???
(I do want this explained as I can't get my head around it)
4. Wtc riders has expressed unhappiness with the rule. it's now proven very subjective, motive is questionable - will you change/remove the rule?
A second article I'd like to see is one from someone who attended the WTc in Japan, was it as bad as the footage tells??
A third one would be from the riders. Did they like it or hate it??
So everyone agree that it's going to be hell to observe and completely impossibly to understand as a spectator?
Wouldn't that lead to less people starting with trials? (When they don't understand what's going on and what the rider did to get a clean or a five?)
How can that lead to more bike sales? (As that is the reason used by the FIM I believe it's very important to judge how relevant this rule is upon expected and actual bike sales)
Personally I'm in the process of buying a new bike, but as my local series are thinking about going No Stop next year I'm very hesitant. No stop when looking at fujigas looks like a lame version of extreme enduro to me, not exciting at all.
Without a doubt YES. Love the bike and how easy it is to handle. I've had no major issues and no probs getting it started. If the starting is an issue your dealer has a very low cost solution so I wouldn´t worry about that. Power delivery is a bit different than compared to a carb engine, more linear power delivery in my opinion and a smoother bottom end.
Try them all and then decide which suits you best!
I believe the solution for a dragging clutch is found in this "special parts list".... Item on page 14 "the 2.1mm intermediate plates keep the size of the thickness of the clutch and extend its life. "
I asked my dealer about this some time ago and he told me that the entire seat base was different aswell as the rear fender to seat base shapes, so no, sorry.
Don't mean to steal your thread but if you or someone else who has the 20.0 could advice on how suitable it is for an adult (size wise) I would be grateful. Thinking about using the 20.0 as a technique trainer in my backyard!
Finally understood how to create an album.... For pics follow the link above. I have unfortunately deleted most pics but at least these will give you an understanding of what I was trying to say in my first post.
Boris - thanks for the work you have done putting the guides together, appreciated across the globe
If you want some pics from the clutch work I did then pm me and I can send them through email - tried to post them here but doesn't seem like I'm technical enough to handle it....
kbtrials how hard of a job is it to fit the 2013 clutch ?
jsp
Very simple, Ossa Canada has instructions on PDF - very helpful. Especially fitting the cover and kick starter back on.... Which was really the only tricky part, after I read instructions it just happen to go much smoother....
Some pointers though;
If the little plastic/rubber stop for the kick starter falls from its position and behind the clutch basket you do not need to disassemble the clutch, use a vacuum cleaner with a straw attached to the hose. Bend it behind the clutch and pick the rubber pin up (lost it behind there twice when fiddling to get the kick just right in place, before reading the Canadian manual.... )
Take caution with the final ring holding the "butterfly springs"( don't know what they are called in English so bare with me...) the screws are of **** quality, when tightening all screws make sure to do it little by little tightening every screw. It is really easy to have the last one shear and the head of the screw comes straight of when tightening, I replaced all screws to higher grade ones after the initial destruction of one.... The ring needs to be centered! ossa has a tool for this but it can be done without the tool.
Lay the bike down on its side, much easier....
If you've never been fiddling with a clutch then take pictures for every step during disassembly - makes you a lot more confident in putting it back together!
Oops, think I Made it sound difficult - it's really not, can be done by a newbie in a few hours with the help of instruction sheets as per above. The beta fix takes some time, I did not go into the detailed work described in the other thread, just filed it clean from glue residue and removed some excessive glue around the outer plate guides to help the plates move freely.
I have a 2012 thats dragged the clutch since new,has 34hrs on it now and still has what I think "considerable clutch drag",I am running GRO 75wt,have also bled the clutch. If I take all the freeplay out of the lever and have everthing adjusted right up its not to bad,not great but and really very "on/off"as well ! A mate runs Nulon 75wt transmission oil in his Ossa (AVAILABLE AT "SUPERCHEAP") comes in a litre bottle and is a lot cheaper than GRO which can be hard to find at times. Not sure what to do with mine,has been changed several times,I will buy some Nulon next and give that a shot.
I am running a 12 volt "start system" on mine,just a NMH battery pack which is available for under $10 on ebay plus a switch,they can be a ******* without them as you have seen on the forum.
I started a thread a few months back on the clutch drag as I had the same issue, really frustrating when riding. My solution was the 75w oil (castrol as we don't have a GRO importer in Sweden) together with the famous "beta clutch fix" modd on a new 2013 clutch pack. Don't know which change that cured my clutch as I did all mods at once but the result is fantastic, NO drag and great clutch bite. I used to have an issue with the clutch feel, it felt like the clutch engaged slightly different and at different points at times. Apparently the 2013 clutch pack has a different clutch material and is slightly thinner than the previous versions, which I also noted during the shift of packs. The only "negative" is a slight clutch rattle when clutch not engaged standing still.
For me this modd was the last piece of the pussle, the Ossa is for me the ultimate Trials bike at the moment - I absolutely love every bit of it, engine response, grip, handling and balance.
The Mecatecno is not a "copy" of an OSET it is a different manufacturer doing their take on a kid's electric trials bike. They have some differences, and improvements, over the older OSET design.
The Gas Gas kid's electric bikes are EXACTLY the same as the Mecatecno's , but with GG branded, and coloured plastics and stickers. They are made for Gas Gas under license by Mecatecno. The only difference between these two kids bikes is cosmetic.
A "copy" doesn't make it an oem, but I get what you mean. For parts sourcing it would be good for me to know. I believe there is already a thread for which bikes the best.....
Anyone who can tell which bike the Gas Gas is based of? ( someone told me its not there own production so just assuming its either a meca or Oset)
Looking to buy an electric bike for a 6 year old, just out of curiosity (and for spare parts excessibility where I live) - is the Gas Gas mini electric bikes an Oset or mecatecno OEM?
Got my dealer to make one up and install a 9v sustem for me that works absolutly awesomef.... bike still wont start unless im holding that button though! ... ....... the real sad story though is i have 2 1/2 hours on a brand new bike ...my clutch is leaking.... its missing small parts from my front light ... and now the bike wont shift ....... did anybody else have this experience?? because i have to be honest my Ossa experience so far has turned into hell........ dont get me wrong i love the bike when its working properly .... im just a little shocked at the problems ive run into on a brand new bike.
Ouch, got support from your dealer?
I havent had any issues at all and haven't heard of anyone experience something this bad with the Ossa. Hope you get it sorted!
something else that needs to be done is using the "clutch spring tool" when installing the clutch pack to center the spring.
I did not use the clutch tool although I have seen it exists through the manual. My importer told me to be cautious when centering the metallic ring which I was. What does the clutch spring tool do, ie how does it work?? What are the risks/negatives if not using it?
Bought A Brand New Evo - Any Tips'n'trix?
in Beta
Posted
Just have to post - been on the bike four times now and it's amazing. Clutch is precise with perfect bite, no drag. Gearbox is smooth. Engine response is great, more torque than the OSSA (and the beta is just a 250!) I had before and way better power curve. (Been writing up the ossa before here on TC, now I'm actually a bit shameful about that... Don't get me wrong, the ossa is a good bike, the beta is just that much better in my opinion)
My riding confidence is on an all time high, I totally trust this bike will do what I want it to.
The main thing I miss from the Ossa is the rear shock.... There is also quite a difference in weight, the beta is quite a bit heavier to lift and move. When riding it doesn't feel heavier though.
The gearing is a bit different, the beta is slower geared in first gear - which is good for me but took some time getting used to, especially going up steps.
On the negatives - I have the clonk from the steering bearings... Seems easy to sort but a bit annoying on a new bike.