hencam

Hi, our solution to this is obviously a personal opinion and i am sure there are many ways to skin this cat. we to dislike the compressing of suspension etc, our idea is derived from our grasstrack days where we had a fixed gate at the tow bar end of the trailer, the gate is made so the wheel slide in at least a 3rd of the diameter of the wheel deep and a tight fit on the width. on trials bikes we have to let the tyres down to about 5 psi, the gate the other end is hinged to aid loading. once all bikes are loaded at the tow bar end. The rear gate can be raised and again this needs to be a tight fit on the width of the tyres and close up approximately a 3rd deep again. a ratchet strap is then tensioned between the two gates this way the you are pulling the wheels into the gates along the centre line of the bikes through the wheel spindles. sure enough if you are over zealous you could bend things (forks etc) but if you apply a little common sense and ratchet up just enough to compress the gate into the tyres you will be fine, because the gates are a 3rd up the wheels then the bikes stay upright. we found it was best to make the gate accept the two outside bikes on forwards (front wheels towards towbar) and the centre bike front end facing the tail gate of the trailer. you ask for other tips etc, we make a means to carry the fuel cans on the trailer, keeps the fumes out of the van or car. we also carry the footpump and tool box for basic tools on the trailer as well. one version of this trailer idea had a lightweight box on the front of the a frame of the trailer for wet riding gear etc. this idea was abandoned as it made the trailer to heavy at the front. A jockey wheel is an essential part of any trailer even though so many trailer either don't have them or people make no provision to fit one. i hope all this helps, it's just our experiences.

hi all, ref Bondy's post (thanks Bondy), i should have said, Motor was rebuilt from top to bottom 2 years ago, all new seals bearings ignition components, carb all new parts as well. timing is set to 2.7BTDC, i am toolmaker/engineer by trade so making a micrometer adjustable timing tool was not a problem. if i adjust the mixture screw so the bike runs cleaner the slow running is lumpy and jerky, i am sure my carburation is out but not sure where or how. i will try going back to original settings and work from there, any suggestions gratefully received.

Hi All, i have been running my 198A for a couple of years but only about 5 or 6 trials a year i have always been content with the carburation, however i do feel it could be better. The bike richens up a little on acceleration and does not really clear, also if i run the smaller pilot jet as the manual states the mixture screw is wound virtually all the way in, hence the move to a 25, which allows mixture screw to be approx 1 turn out. all components are in very good condition or new, carb is clean and in very good condition, the slide should be a 3 but i found a 3.5 gave smoother running? if i switch back to a 3 then it is quite lumpy low down am i missing something fundamental or should i just experiment further and not worry the carb is not set to standard etc current settings 150 MJ 25 PJ 3.5 slide 2b1 needle in middle groove 106 needle jet Any advice gratefully received please

hi all, i don't wish to hijack anyone's thread here but i am in the process of rebuilding my brother's Cotswold Bsa and Andy's post is a similar question to what i was going to post. i have found him a C15G motor, and i have some WD gears left over from B40's when i fitted victor boxes in them for motocross. my main query is the Piston subject. the bike is in desperate need of rebore but out to +0.060" already, i assumed i would need to get it linered but it seems from this thread you can fit the triumph piston, can somebody please enlighten me with exactly which triumph model had the flat top piston it should be, the only ones i have come across previously have been daytona pistons fitted to C15 scramblers etc, obviously this defeats the object of low CR to achieve that soft torquey plonk!! i am running standard cam, small inlet head, 622 carb etc etc

thank you all for the information and facts surrounding my bikes and frames. i reckon i'll take the light weight frame 4lb lighter than standard has to be a major plus, unless its rusted out from the inside!!!! no doubt i will find out the first time i drop off an incline. put the 198B engine in it with any other odd bits i can find build it up and see what i end up with. worst case it will be just another Bultaco saved from the scrap yard, best case a decent little trials bike.

when compared to other frames bikes i have the numbers, as you say are nothing like Bultaco, so i guess some muppet has just re-stamped the frame, why bother?? it has no log book etc is it possible to move this topic/thread to the correct place??

Hi all, thank you for the help and opinions, if it is a standard 325 frame why would the main frame be 2" shorter at the swinging arm pivot, as picture 2 shows with a standard 198A frame led on top, although it is not very clear. i thought it was only the 250 frames between 76 and 78 that were shorter like the 175 version. also this frame is 1.7kgs lighter than any other bulto frame i have including the 198A in the photo, 1.7 kgs or 3.75lb is alot of weight to save on a frame as light as a Bultaco is already. well whatever it is, i think i will put the 198b motor into it, build it up and ride the thing! i also need to learn how to use the forum correctly as all of these posts i now realise should have been in the Bultaco specific forum

Hi All, more photos of the odd Bulto frame i have acquired, as always any help guidance very much appreciated.

Hi Woody, Pschrauber thank you for your replies to my post, I will contact shedworks, just not sure on the whole Ethanol thing and with the tanks being £350 ish would hate for it to bubble and start to dissolve. I may have to bite the bullet and live with the plastic one. On closer inspection the 340 bike requires a little more than light restoration! it has one or two other interesting features such as a Titanium bash plate and Titanium snail cam adjusters!! the photos don't show it but there has definitely been an inch added in two places in the front pipe, once about 3" from the exhaust port and then again straight above this where the pipe passes under the fuel tank, I have 4 other 79 front pipes here and none have these welds. Thank you for the info on the 175 geometry, was there a reason why they made the bike 2" shorter for the 76-78 Sherpa 250 and then back to the full 52" for later models. with modern sections becoming tighter and tighter perhaps a short wheelbase bike would be useful? Along with the bikes I picked up a spare frame I will post photos, it does not have the usual Bultaco frame number it is just digits, 100**** from what I can remember also the frame has no swan neck but when laid on top of a standard 79 it is again shorter like the 175 frame with the s/arm pivot being approx 2 " further forward. I find it all quite interesting, especially when most people say 'oh yeah all Bultacos are the same!"

Well here they are, all 3 of them. 1 off nicely restored 198A, 1 off nice little 175 sherpa, with a 50" wheel base, is that correct or has someone ridden into a wall, needs restoring, but a beautifully quiet little motor?? Probably the best of all for me is the 199B, matching Engine and Frame no. JB199 14292-B. she is a bit scruffy but rides beautifully, this bike was apparently on ebay a few months back, it has 2 condensors fitted, an 1" added in the front pipe, an alloy air box, although the one fitted is clearly wrong being from a 1976 ish bike i believe. if anyone recognises it or has any info please let me know i will probably leave the 198A as she is, the 199B will need a sympathetic restore, i would like to find an alternative tank, i don't like plastic and have heard the decals won't stay on, will a 198 style alloy tank fit?? what shockers would be considered an upgrade, new betors?, i don't want to spend a fortune as my riding ability is not worthy of it? Also although the bike is running ok, i think a few quid spent on the carb would be worth it, or possibly a new carb, AMAL, MIKUNI or OKO???? The one giving me the most trouble on a decision is the 175, were they any good? it is a short wheel base and seems to have a higher ride height. or I suppose I could turn it into a 250 and find a different frame, any ideas or suggestions

Hi All, many thanks for those ultra quick early responses. i will get some photos and post them. on the 340, yes it has an alloy head steady, it has the 340 engine fitted, Bing carb etc, somebody appears to have cut and welded about an inch into the exhaust pipe above the cylinder head, neat job and nicely done, but why??. The "spare motor" is the 250 198B, i will obtain numbers and scratch the paint off and post frame numbers as well. The 340 has seen some hard use, but what a beautifully smooth motor, even with the Bing which i had been led to believe were not the best. It is always nice to have something a bit special?? if indeed it is??. however to be honest my interest is in it for the bike it is, not who may have owned it. i have been in this position before with BSA Victor GPs etc and to be honest people spend more time getting hung up on who owned it and who didn't and telling you what you have not got than riding the bike . For us it will be just another Bultaco we can shower love and attention on and an excuse to pester Dave, Robin and the team at Inmotion

Hi All, i have been fortunate enough to increase the Bultaco collection this weekend. A couple of questions though and hopefully some useful guidance. I purchased the bikes because both my father and i love them, he had them 50 years ago when he was 17ish and for me as an affordable twinshock bike they are my chosen mount . i am not looking to restore to perfect condition just to the extent funds will allow and to be rideable in twinshock trials Anyway one of the bikes is a white framed, Bultaco 340, it has what appears to be normal Bulto forks but on one side has no pinch bolts, Is this correct or is it a replacement fork leg that has not had holes drilled or the slot cut?? It has a Engine number 199******B fitted which has 6 gears which i believe is correct, but the engine with it is no. RM198****** B this i believe is a 250 engine is it not? It has an alloy air box fitted, with a single large rubber bung with a tag on the side and 3 hexagonal bung holes in the top, was this standard? The bike has a plastic tank although i believe it should be Alloy?? Does anyone know where i can get an alloy one from or will an alloy tank off a 198A fit? i have found a few posts that say the correct Alloy tank had squarer sides and was shorter than the 198A if i can't find an alloy tank would i be better off with a Plastic or Fibreglass type from shed works?? were the Bultaco 175cc anygood, as always any advice or help gratefully received and if anyone has an alloy 199B fuel tank please contact me

thank you, he does like the 315 he has borrowed, sadly it is not for sale, hence the request for info on others, there are a couple of 315s on ebay, just wanted to canvas opinion, he can't be the only mature rider that can't cope with a rocket ship!! I am new to the forum, so many replies so soon, thank you to everyone.

Thank you, he is little on the large side, about 5'10" and 16.5 stone with the riding gear on, hopes to be less!!! ok will have a look on flea bay. like the sound of the 250 with the flywheel weight and low comp head.

Hi all, looking for some serious help here please. my father has been riding trials bikes for a few years(50 odd to be precise) mostly unit Bsa and Bultacos 199A etc. in a bid to have an easier day, less maintenance, lighter bike he would like to move to something newer. not bothered what make at all montesa, sherco, beta, really do not care, what he does struggle with is the speed at which everything happens, hydraulic clutches, brakes that really work, speed/sharpeness of acceleration etc etc. he has borrowed a 2001 montesa 315, works very well and he seems to like it, however it is too quick!!!. some of this we accept we cannot change and it will be perseverance. can anyone recommend makes and models that have the softest power or are there ways to de-tune a modern trials bike, do some lend themselves to de-tuning better than others, we have been recommended Scorpa as having a soft smooth power delivery with a slow action throttle??? does the 315 still have choice of chips like the 314??? can extra head gaskets be put in etc etc any help or advice very much appreciated