It can be done by holding with both hands and pulling while someone gentle taps the end of the shaft with a dead blow hammer.
Or a puller works nicely. You'll find that with a puller you will need very little pressure before it starts to move.
Once you get it to move, remove it very slowly as there will be 3 metal dowels, which hold the clutch basket on the shaft. Don't lose these.
Just for future reference, the clutch can be removed as a unit with all the plates and springs inside. All you do is flatten down the washer and undo the nut. It will then slide off with some pressure.
Thanks everyone you've been a massive help, the only photos I could find of the model from new were so small it was impossible to tell what anything was.
dave_t I don't supposed you'd want to sell any parts you may have?
I got myself a cheap TY 250 s 1988 recently and I am considering a full restoration. The frame has a number of lugs and mounting points that aren't being used and I need a bit of help idetifying what is missing. To make it easier, I've marked the points on these photos.
I've had a look at some images and I think #1 and #10 are for a removable rear loop. I think #11 is a mounting point for the original exhaust.
Thank you, I’m loving the 200 at the moment. Yes it’s a shed works cover. The cover fits really well, it just slides over the tip of the old tank. Although my old tank doesn’t have any badges, so I am not sure if you would need to remove them first. It’s really light too. The only bad thing I would say is be very careful with petrol. I have splashed fuel on mine a couple of times and it marks the paint straight away. The other day some fuel must have gotten underneath because I have noticed a large bubble form. I’d say get the tank cover but lay a cloth over it when filling up the tank and be careful.
I have actually been considering if I can restore my old tank with wet and dry and then a thorough polish. I may give it a go as I have nothing to lose.
I finally got around to fixing an oil leak on my kickstart. It did take a couple of attempts to get the position of the kickstart mechanisim correct. These bikes are a dream to work on compared to my Montesa.
I put some 6 inch rentals on my Fantic 200 recently. I was a little sceptical at first as they looked like they were only going to add an inch to the rise, but they have transformed the way the bike feels. Very happy with them.
You've just discovered one of the hardest jobs on your bike.
The easy bit should be the flywheel nut. I found shocking it off worked the best. Get a long ratchet on there and hit the end down with a hammer. The fly wheel will move a little but the compression should hold it fairly still. It may take a few hits before the nut will crack.
The primary gear on my 348 took me months to get off. I went through about 4 different types of gear pullers, some broke and some were too big, so would just slip off.
Firstly I would say take the clutch basket off so you don't damage it's teeth. If you haven't ever removed this before, do it slowly as there are 3 metal dowels which hold it on the shaft, they may drop out so keep an eye out for them. Get the puller on the primary gear, with a firm hold. Slowly tighten it over the course of a couple of minutes, tighten wait, tighten wait.... Then loosen it off and start again. I did this about 4 times and it eventually popped off while I was waiting. From here it's a simple job to change the seals.
Just one more quick question. When I take the casing off, the kick start shaft will come off with it. Is anything likely to fall off or will the kick start return spring fly out?
From experience with my Montesa it's useful to know what to expect, otherwise you have shims on the floor and springs flying off with no idea where they came from.
telboy1969 I've had this issure before, for me the solution was the brass push pin that pushes the clutch. If you take it out and look at the back of the pin, you will see on one side it is slightly angled. This needs to go in the correct way round. From memory I think the cut out angle needs to face towards the primary. When it's put in the other way round it was sticking out a couple of mm too far which was causing the clucth to engage slightly and the kick start to slip. Hope that helps.
Also.. How many clutch plates did you out into your clutch? I'm in the process of changing mine, I took 13 plates out of the old clutch and I have 15 plates to go back in.
So I finally got round to working on the bike. I've removed the old clutch plates, they were very worn. I took out 13 plates, but the new plates I got from Sammy Miller have 15 plates. When I fitted put the clutch side casing back on the clutch was rock solid and I couldn't move the lever. I removed 2 of the plates and a quick test allows the clutch to move.
Before I put the bike back together and fill it up with oil, I just thought I would ask if anyone has had experience of this? Is this a suitable fix?
Thanks for all the replys. I am almost pleased to hear most people mention the clutch, as this will probably be the easiest thing to fix. I will look into loosening off the clutch cable a bit, if that fails to fix it then I'll look at replacing the plates.
Has anyone ever had any experience with a slipping kick start lever? I normally give the bike a few kicks with the decompression lever depressed, then a few kicks with the lever released and it should start.
However sometimes you kick and the engine will turn over fine. Other times the lever just kicks (not very smoothly) and the engine doesn't turn.
Love the bike!! it must have some power, the 247 feels quick enough to me.
Is this what mine will look like inside? I have only had the 123 opened up and its clutch is on the other side?
Cheers. Allyboy
It still surprises me with the power. I used to ride a Honda TL and being a 4 stroke the power delivery is completely different. I find with the 348 as long as you're careful with the throttle the power is very smooth and there is always more. I really like the feel of this bike.
probably teaching the converted it usually helps to give the puller a tap on the end once its done up tight,doing this when taking a car hub off once it all shot across the garage hitting the opposite wall.
This is exactly how I got it off. Apply pressure, tap the end of the crankshaft a fair few times and apply more pressure and leave it for 5 minutes. It also helped to release the pressure off the puller and start again. I repeated this a few times and eventually it just popped off while I was chatting.
I'm glad that you succeeded with my advise. It's a typical problem with Montesas.
By the way: the puller you've used is very similar to the official tool for that bike. It's tougher than the legged pullers.
Your advice was right. The only reason I posted this was the fact that this forum can be so helpful to novices. I wanted to let the people, who helped me diagnose and fix my bike that their advice is appreciated. Thanks.
That looks perfect for the job. I found the smaller pullers broke under the strain. The larger pullers had larger claws which wouldn't fit behind the primary. Your tool seems spot on.
Nice bike - as a side issue, are those old original Hydrobag rear units still damping? They seemed to give up the ghost long before this age!
Thanks, so far the rear shocks have been great. The forks were seized when I first got the bike and needed completely rebuilding. Apart from that, the suspension is running smooth.
A few months ago I had an extremely smokey 348, the smoke was coking up the exhaust and causing the exhaust to overheat. I had owned the bike for over a year and had only once started it without easy start. It would normally take about 5 minutes, a lot of kicking, a lot of easy start and effort to fire up.
I was advised to change the crankshaft oil seal, which should help with the smokey exhaust. The bike was in bits for 2 months while I went through 5 different gear pullers trying to get the primary gear off the crankshaft. The first puller wouldn’t fit behind the gear, 3 of the pullers snapped under the pressure, but the last was successful.
I know first hand that this is a pig of a job so if anyone needs and advice let me know.
With the gear off the new seal was in and I reassembled the bike. I could not believe it when I kicked the bike and it started effortlessly first kick. It has been started about 5 times now, all on the first kick. I can’t believe the a new seal worth a couple of quid has basically given me a new feeling bike. I couldn’t be more happy, now it’s time to catch up on some riding.
1979 Registered 348 Cota
in Montesa
Posted
It can be done by holding with both hands and pulling while someone gentle taps the end of the shaft with a dead blow hammer.
Or a puller works nicely. You'll find that with a puller you will need very little pressure before it starts to move.
Once you get it to move, remove it very slowly as there will be 3 metal dowels, which hold the clutch basket on the shaft. Don't lose these.
Just for future reference, the clutch can be removed as a unit with all the plates and springs inside. All you do is flatten down the washer and undo the nut. It will then slide off with some pressure.
Good luck