I was doing some research for a Kokusan Denki ECU in use on another project, and this forum came up. If anyone would be willing to send me whatever k-scan or k-data pro software they have, I would very much appreciate it!
Hi Lotus54 I too love the OSSA's I have 3 at present all TR280i's 2011,2012 and 2014. I too am in need of the K-Scan software if its still available and a lead, however I can make up my own lead if non available. Thanks in anticipation.
I do not have any spare leads.
PM me your email and I will send a link. Glad to help.
I am happy to share what I have for the bikes. I’ve made a few of the diagnostic cables, but I don’t have a bike here to test, so do not want to make more. I do still work on them from time to time, so want to keep the cable.
Plus the Explorer was one of my favorite all time bikes. While there were a few things I would change (linkage was too light duty, but a swap to the Titanium ones solved that) but it was just so fun. Wish they still made them. Perhaps those things would have been addressed. The 2014 I had was a great bike.
Hi i have just bought a 2010 Ossa tr280i and am trying to find the Kscan to Downloan.Rgards Chris
I just messaged you the links.
for the 2010, you will want to use the older software. of course you need the older style interface also. I've made some in the past and I think the instructions are on here someplace?
I commonly got the chassis relay fault on my Explorer- never seemed to affect anything.
Make sure you do not touch the throttle when starting- take the slack out of starter and a good strong kick.
With a 12V battery hooked up with a momentary switch- holding down the switch while kicking started first kick every time warm, 1 or 2 cold. I also ran one step hotter sparking plug, since the factory one was too cold.
I suppose it could somehow fail close- but I don’t think very likely. More likely would be wires getting chaffed due to improper routing/covers and shorting across- activating the FRB.
I use a very high quality switch (not the EM one) and it has been flawless. Another great feature is if you have to stop on a really steep hill (either someone stopped ahead, tree down or just mess up) pressing the FRB with also work in reverse. So it acts like a rear brake- pretty effectively at a stop.
I have it located such that is it highly unlikely I would ever hit the button unless I want to. (I never have yet)- it will immediately ‘turn off’ the power and start the regen. If you hit it by accident with throttle on- then take finger off button, it will immediately give what ever power the throttle is set to. THAT could be an eye opener.
But I’ve only done that when fooling around to see how the button reacts and how the bike responds.
I don’t do competitions any more, but I would still use the FRB on a steep downhill, since I can then put my feet where I want, hold the button down for excellent ‘braking’ and just feed in more front brake if needed, or slip the clutch if I want a bit less.
I really like the button under bar I’ve been using. If I want less regen, I can just slip the clutch a bit while holding in the button. With the location- that is pretty easy to use.
Tyre pressure certainly makes a difference. If I have it pumped up to ‘road’ pressure (12psi) the stand works ok. But at trail/trial pressure (3-4psi) it is awful.
I agree- it should be offered as an option for the older bikes. Assuming it is just programming of course, which it certainly seems to be.
I think it could be nice in a trial competition, but just wasting energy for trails. I like using the FRB a lot and it is quite ‘jerky’ if you use the FRB with any throttle opening at all. (Pressing the FRB with throttle open will immediatly shut off engine and go to regen, regardless of throttle position. And letting it off with throttle open causes it to immediately go to that opening, not smooth at all.)
I have no idea how they implement the ‘traction control’ so it could need more components? And perhaps the hardware is different on the newer bikes that have it? I am just speculating since I have not even seen a 2022.
Mounts under bar, I can just slightly move my thumb to activate. I keep forefinger on the clutch all the time and can even slip it a bit when the FRB is activated if I want less.
I would not think the TPS would be goofed up- BUT make absolutely certain the throttle is closing all the way. If open a bit- it can be a bugger to start.
I just jacked up the left side a the bike a bit so when I pulled the plug- all the oil just went down the skid plate and out. Just a paper towel to clean up and not big deal.
Mine looked very clean at 40 hours, just a tiny bit of ‘fluff’ on the magnet. I did use the recommended oil, mostly since I like the way it works now and sometime a change can make it a bit different. Plus it wasn’t that much more anyway
K-Scan for Ossa
in OSSA
Posted
Email me and I will send the link.