They have a clip under the alluminium dust seal carrier. anyway if you have any mechanical ability you can rebuild and better the performance of your betors with little trouble. but I am in Aust and cannot get any help from the manufactures of these shocks. I have used ATF dextron III to rebuild and nitrogen recharge, catterpillar earthmoving O'rings and have had no recalls. a shame that the company producing these shocks are not interested in refining such a good design?
Just finishing off a rebuild on ty250n, anyway may save someone some trouble and money down the track, try using IT250 83-85 model piston rings, half the price and exact size, rings, gudeon and ring locator pins. even the cutaway for intake is nearly identical.
I am looking at buying a fantic 240, can anyone tell me if they know any problems or dramas they have had or heard. I own a few twinshocks and am looking for something a that will put up with modern style riding, a clutch that works, engine that can handle modern style reving and stresses.
Thanks heaps for all the info guys, I have been busy building a prototype twinshock, but I cannot work out how to put photo's on these post's? someone help.....
I was looking in one of my old books and found two pictures of Mick Andrews on one of his TY's, The pictures are not that good but can anyone identify the engines?
The book is "MOTOR CYCLE TRIALS TECHNIQUES AND TRAINING" by Leavitt and Weed.
The Pictures are on pages 128 & 139 take notice of clutch cover and header mods!!
Sorry to those who do not have this book as I do not own a scanner.
I have found a spoke thread roller but I am not sure what size the spokes are on my Bikes, TY and BULTACO 198. The roller has dies for 9 and 10 gauge spokes?? will this be any good for Twin shock spokes.
Any info on this topic would be greatly appreciated as I know nothing in this field except that spokes to suit these bike are too expensive in Australia, so my plan was to buy spokes for bikes that no else wants and re size to suit??
does any one know if the mark on the crank for timing looks just like a chisel hit on the end and if so does this go to top or bottom with arrow on flywheel on top?
I am in need of some help, before i burn the **#@! bike, I have a real ugly 197 Villiers "7E" maybe in a BSA d3 frame, just bought it and want to get it running. I have spark at the plug.. the plug seems to be getting wet from fuel but not drowning... but no real fire only coughs and the odd hiss out carb. Also it has a dellorto ub20s carby.
Anybody that wants to throw there hat in the ring is welcome and no idea would be consider silly.. Bike is in Australia and is my pre 65 project if it lives that long.
will be waiting "sleeping" at my keyboard till I get some ideas.. Timing setup? points? I dont know.
I have finally found the perfect match to sherpa T250 1978 model "non reed valved" carby, have tried heaps of carbs including TY mono carb and found as follows, for those who wish to get rid of the melted down saucepan carby? AMAL....
Yamaha DT 175 Mikuni
keep standard needle and needle jet. set clip one above middle.
main jet "190"
pilot jet "35"
air screw 3/4 off seat.
hope this helps someone as it has been a long battle..
Thanks for all the replies, I have recleaned carby and warmed up bike, before adjusting. bike will now idle but still seems to have a pop type miss at idle? seems to run good at above idle, will persist to find miss.
I've just purchased a TLR 250, not going.... I cleaned out carby and airfilter fitted new plug, started second kick???? now it revs fine and has plenty of power but stalls, i have screwed the idle screw all the way in, adjusted the mixture screw to different settings?
The bike will idle after being reved up but then will slowly idle down to stop?
ANY IDEAS!!!! please?
I think the float level maybe high will this cause this problem?
Just fitted new falcons and are without a doubt miles ahead of the Betors, taking into account prior mention of different results from same brand and rate shocks, in Australia we only reall can choose from Betors or Falcons so I have tried several Betors and all were simillar in dampening characteristics but falcons are smoother and definately give better tracking for rear end. just got too keep reciept away from wifey..
Is your bike a 198 or 198a? if it is 198 with sub frame still in tact, you can lower your pegs further than 198a.
I have just welded mine on, welded the bottom corner of bracket inline with bottom of main frame mounting for skid plate, the arc that the section of frame at rear is almost the correct angle placement for sherco pegs,, weld the rear section of bracket as far back as possible keeping that you still can achieve a good penetration of weld.
not sure of your type of pegs but make sure your pivot bolt is not lower than the skid plate, could come to one very nasty stop.
I have Betors on my Bully and TY, they perform very well but I seem to have blown both set's as they both have lost most of the oil inside? There are very well priced shock's released from Spain I suspect, that Mick Andrews developed. I contacted Alan Whitton "excuse the spelling" hoping to purchase a pair but didn't have any at the time. would love to try a set though.
Bultaco Sherpa Shocks
in Bultaco
Posted
Betors are rebuildable,
They have a clip under the alluminium dust seal carrier. anyway if you have any mechanical ability you can rebuild and better the performance of your betors with little trouble. but I am in Aust and cannot get any help from the manufactures of these shocks. I have used ATF dextron III to rebuild and nitrogen recharge, catterpillar earthmoving O'rings and have had no recalls. a shame that the company producing these shocks are not interested in refining such a good design?