donmurray

Yes, and may buy one in a few months.

Good ideas Mich Lin. It does look like there needs to be some divison. I still think hopping a motorcycle looks a little silly.

Motobatics. That's what trials have become. Trials bikes have evolved too far from what the average motorcycle rider is interested in. Many, if not most, US motorcyclist has no idea what a trials event is. I suggest a new sport called Motobatics. Start with the current trials bikes, and allow unlimited development. Use only artificial sections like some the demonstration setups we see. Have vertical walls, spiraling loops, six 3' steps, and jump gaps with difficult approaches and landings. This could all be setup where there's parking for spectators, and camera crews. We already have stunt bikes, just merge the two. It would be a competition with very light, powered machines that could do amazing, dangerous stunts. Migrate Trials bikes back to something the average motorcyclist can afford, and ride with reasonable comfort. Less of a stunt machine. Regs for trials bikes should require a seat with min height and length, and a tank with more capacity. Another quart is not going to spoil anyone

The Michelin rear tire on my Montesa 315 leaks about 1/4 lb per day, but I cannot find a leak. Used soap and submerged the tire in water. Still no luck. Is this normal for trials tires? Do the tires or rims just out-gas the air gradually?

How do you "release" the gases from the casting? Maybe I can work with the local powder coating guy to get him up-to-speed on the method.

I agree with the seat (at a minimum height) and a min tank capacity. Neither seems like they would hurt the show much. Other types of motor competetion often recognize the benefits in maintaining some similarity with production vehicles.

We have a plan. About 2 gals of diesel mixed with one can of Seafoam. Submerge the expansion chamber or silencer in pan of that mix and check it every few hours. Since diesel itself has a cleaning agent, I figure it plus the Seafoam will do the job. I'll let you know in a few days.

In searching for cleaning methods I found some use Seafoam DeepCreep decarbonizing treatment for 2 stroke engines. Mostly the outboard motor group. Has anyone used this to decoke an engine or the exhaust system?

What is the best way to remove oil and carbon buildup in an aluminum expansion chamber. I understand caustic soda will damage alum.

Never mind. It was the lower stud that was bent down. I was lucky that a pry bar between the stud (with nut on) and the engine case gave enough leverage to bend the stud back up. Still can't imagine how someone managed to bend the lower stud down. Looks like any empact on a rock or log would have bent something up.

In trying to remove the header pipe the metal flange that goes over the two studs will not come off. It looks like one of the studs is bent outward and even though the flange is loose it can only move out over the studs about 3/16 inch. Any ideas on how this got bent, and how I can straghten it. It's going to be hard to get to with the pipe in place.

Why do I need to remove the seal and pack a new bearing? Don't new bearings with seals both sides already have grease?

How to remove rear, or front, wheel bearings? The spacer between the bearings has a slightly smaller ID than the bearing. Can heating the hub and driving this ridge with a brass drift get the bearing out?

I recently read a thread somewhere that a Sureflex clutch cured the 315 clutch drag problem, but was not as progressive as the stock one. The stock clutch has a mix of cork and other fibre plates that is supposed to make for progressive engagement. Maybe you have the Sureflex plates. From what I've figured out, the overall cure for any 315 clutch problem is new/good plates properly assembled and the Silkolene SRG75 light oil.

My Montesa magnesium flywheel cover has some super paint on it. Takes hard sanding or other mechanical action to remove. I've heard the VHT Fast Strip will remove anything, but haven't tried that yet. May have to get it bead blasted. After polishing, this stuff looks like it might protect. http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/cspages/evershield.php

What is a good tough paint for magnesium engine side covers. A local powder coating shop said mag parts did not hold the paint well because some kind of outgassing when heated in the oven.

Sometimes I ride my 315 around our acreage which calls for more shifting. The tiny pedal hurts and wears boots when you shift often. Any solutions other than just making a longer pedal with rubber cover?

I'm riding in a wooded and grassy area, so probably should have a spark arrestor. Any opinions on how much risk there actually is without an arrestor. Any suggestions on getting one?

I noticed there were posts about using WD-40 on chains. I've done the same on street machines because the chains don't end up covered with a glop of dirt/grease that's really grinding paste. Stopped using the WD-40 because even thought it cleans well and does some temp lubing, it's gone in a few miles and there's no lube effect. Started using a spray called MFR. Goes on thin like WD-40, but evaporates and leaves a dry lube material on the chain. I'm getting 4k miles between adjustments on street bikes. Could still clean the chain with WD, let it evaporate, or run it a little, then apply the MFR. I think the MFR would work as a cleaner and a lube, but WD might be cheaper just for cleaning. I had to order some cans of MFR from the following link. http://www.progoldmfr.com/products/chainlube.html