donmurray

Thanks all. This is the first 2 stroke I've owned, so it just looks bad compared to the 4 stroke plugs I've looked at. BTW, it has not fouled yet, and starts fine.

My 02 315 has an NGK BPR6EIX iridium plug. Took a look at it yesterday, and there's a little oily soot around the end of the threaded base. The tip of the grounding electrode was dry and dark brown. Is this normal? Need a hotter plug, or leaner jetting? Since it's ridden slow and easy a lot would turning in the mixture screw help keep the plug clean? Bike is ridden easy most of the time around private property, but on each ride I do open it up for a few seconds on some flat areas. Timing has been retarded a tad and carb has 35 pilot jet, 110 main jet, D37 needle at 2nd from bottom slot. Using 80:1 mix with Silkolene.

Got the rebound adjuster free with some penetrating oil and pliers. Probably too many pressure washings.

The blue rebound adjustment knob on top of the right fork will not turn. Do these freeze up if they are not turned or lubed for some time? Could it just be jammed because someone turned it too tight? Any suggestions? Also, there's a small slot head screw in the bolt at the bottom of the fork. This is the bolt that holds the tube and damper assemble in. What's the purpose of this screw?.

The new seals arrived today and I used a 12" piece of 1 1/2" pvc to drive them in. A slightly bigger diameter would be better, and maybe you could get that outside the US.

Why didn't I think of that? No reply required.

My Montesa 315 manual shows a tube type driver for installing the seals. Is this necessary or can I carefully tape it in by working all around in small increments? Maybe a narrow piece of wood to prevent damage?

Is automatic tranmission fluid OK for fork oil?

Got them out today. Just a little heat from the propane torch and they come out easy. Don

Forks are off the bike, damper is out, dust seal is off, and the circlip has been removed, but not sure how to remove the slider and seal. The manual say to pull out sharply on the fork tube to bump the seal out. Tried this a few times, but nothing moved. Should I heat the aluminum lower leg a little and then slide the tube out harder? How do you read the stem head label to determine the build year?

Be careful with Lewisport on returns. I returned an item months back and have not been able to get a refund. Sent multiple emails and called, but no response.

I've polished parts by wet sanding. The grit you start with depends on how rough the part is, but you end up with 1500 or 2000 grit. If you can remove the part, put it in a large pan/tub with water in the bottom. Else, use a water hose to keep the paper wet or it will clog up. A firm sponge sanding block will help smooth out low and high spots, and is easier on the hands. When you can't make anymore progress with the fine paper, switch to one of the popular aluminum polish compounds. Start with the finiest grit you can for course sandpaper marks can be hard to remove. I've used a sanding disk on rough parts or to sand off raised letters, but you have to be careful or you'll gouge out a low spot that can't be removed.

I had to replace all the clutch disc on my 2002 315. Replaced them with a stock set of cork and fibre combination as I heard they had the most progessive feel. Steel disk were OK, but I roughed them up with 220 grip emory cloth. That's supposed to help retain a little oil and be less prone to stick. Used the recommenced ELF oil and the clutch works great now. I don't think just changing oil will solve the problem. You might try just a good cleaning with some brake parts cleaner, and sand the steel disk. I would go with the ELF oil. That's what those clutches were designed to work with.

If the kill switch is completing the circuit it should kill at any rpm. Take the button off the bar, and test it with a continuity tester by touching the tester probes to the two wires under the button. When the button is pushed there should be continuity. Another test you can do while it's off the bars is to short across the two wires with needle nose pliers. When the wires are connected/shorted the engine should die. You might also try spraying some contact cleaner in the bottom of the button to remove any corrosion that may have accumulated. My kill button stopped working because the wires had been pinched and broken.

As an old thumper rider I can offer a few suggestions. 1. Most thumpers don't like much, if any, throttle when starting. If cold, the choke/enricher on and no throttle. This point is so sensitive in some bikes you cannot trust your feel about "little" throttle. It best to up the idle screw a tad. 2. If you think it's flooded then try about 3 kicks with full throttle. This lets in some big gulps of air to balance the mixture, and helps dry out the chamber. To become familiar with this condition, check the plug, and if it looks wet then you're probably flooded. If you're taking the plug out often you may want to put a little antiseize on the threads and be careful to not over torque. 3. The sharp point on iridium tipped plugs is supposed to create a better arc. 4. The trick is to learn a starting technique that will not flood the chamber, so begin the learning process with no throttle and no enricher (if you've got one).

I just bought an 02 Montesa 315. Not very old, but it had not been maintained at a good level. Replaced wheel bearings, brake pedal, smaller front sprocket, chain, shock link bearings, grips, levers. Also retarded the timing a tad since they have a reputation for pinging on pump gas. The clutch was dragging badly so it got new plates. The Honda engine and gearbox have never been opened and seem to be in fine shape. Very satisfied with the bike. It's easy to ride and can do much more than I'm capable of. A well maintained older 315 could be a good deal.

I tried Krylon Fusion on the front disc guard of my 02 Montesa. It did not go on well, so did't use it on anything else. When I sprayed the part it had bubbles that looked like it was not bonding in spots, so wiped it off immediately. Anyone else tried it?

At 66 and with a little trail and street riding expierence I bought a used trials bike just because they look light and fun. I have really enjoyed riding around the few acres we have. I set up a couple of creek crossings and some practice logs, just in case I get the urge to join the "guys". Take your time to find a good deal on a bike. If you decide later it's not fun, you can sell out with just the cost of a few bruises. You can expect to get banged up a little if you keep looking for more challenging obstacles.

My 315 had a clutch that dragged so bad you had to push off and then click it in gear when it was cold/first started. Then after it warmed the it would drag badly unless you blipped the throttle every 3 seconds. Also hard to modulate. Tried the Silkolene oil, but not better. I finally bit the bullet and installed new standard friction disk which are a mix of cork and paper fibre. Also went to the recommended Elf oil. Just to make sure I bleed the hydraulics. Clutch works fine now. A little clunk as it goes in gear, but the bike does not move. Smooth progressive engagement. It now has about 3 hours since the rebuild and still works fine.

I don't understand how it could slower? It looks like the spool diameter determines the cable take up rate, and on my aluminum tube the cable nipple socket is about 2mm from the tube and the tube is pretty thin. To make the spool part diameter less, the diameter of the bar and the throttle tube would have to be reduced. What am I missing?

I have an aluminum Domino on a 315 and I guess it's a slow one. Total rotation is about 1/3 turn. I guess slow because I can't see how the spool part where the cable winds could be any smaller in dia.

I thought the full synthetic was supposed to burn cleaner.

Has anyone tried running some of the fuel system cleaner like SeaFoam or Chevron Techron additive? I see some of the outboard marine guys do this. I'm thinking of trying the recommended ratio (or lower) in the next tank of my 315. There's a concentrated procedure they use on marine outboards. In this procedure they spray a continous dose in the intake until it's loaded up, pour a little in the plug, let it sit for awhile, then do a blow out run.

Yep, I would rather Scorpa left the lighter parts. Just want the seat and tank as an option, or a reasonably priced kit.