johnjsy

Hullo P Schrauber, you can get Un12y plugs at :- the green spark plug co -: but they are quite expensive. Hope this helps,regards,John.

Oh heck Tripp,this has been a teaser all the way ! Not a hairline crack in the liner right at the top,on the flange,causing this? When cold it is fine,but with some heat the crack opens up quite a bit. If this has happened,some oily residue should be visible,I would think. I will keep checking to see when you post your next entry. Regards,John.

Aha! Well done Tripp. When you consider that air pressure is (I think) around 14 LBS per SQ inch at sea level, plus as the piston rises the crankcases have suction & even with a tiny gap the amount of air getting in would be quite a lot. A quick question,when joining the centre cases is it best to ---1 use a gasket sealer or 2 leave the gasket dry or 3 rub lithium grease onto the gasket? Different publications recommend each of these 3. Many years back I worked at a Ford & Renault sub dealer & we always used a gasket cement avaiable at that time called Osotite. The Foreman was not happy with grease saying that when a motor gets hot the grease will melt,drip away,& then an oil leak. Your thoughts on that? Regards John.

Hi again Tripp,apologies & correction to what I wrote yesterday. The Schrader valve & take off for a pressure gauge needs to go onto the exhaust blank plate. With the piston down the inlet is effectively closed ! You could make the pressure inlet through an old spark plug,break out the ceramic centre & weld in a piece of tube then a top piece to make a T piece. Air in on one side,pressure gauge on the other. I have to stop here, evening meal is on the table. John.

Hullo to Bondy & the rest of you on this topic, I had a really tight clutch side oil seal sleeve on a motor some years back. My way to get it off. Heat up really hot with an air gun ( paint stripper gun) then I found an open ended spanner a nice sliding fit to go onto the sleeve,clipped on a 2 legged puller & tightened up the drawer bolt & Roberts your new relation! (Bobs your Uncle) If the legs of a puller tend to slide open a Jubilee clip around them will stop their little game! Hope this helps someone some day. Regards,John.

Hi again Tripp,the seals I get from Simply Bearings in Lancashire,U.K. & phone number is --01942-269-837-- you may have to a country code from where you are,I think it is 44 ,best check that. They are pricey at £9.11 each!! I would also like to mention that I now always use C3 bearings on a crankshaft when re-assembling. This is a greater clearance bearing & I think worth having. The last ones I used were SKF Explorer 6205/C3 ,they are only a few pennies more than standard ones. Now back to your problem.I have been turning over a few ideas in my mind over the week end & think to try something a little different.With the motor assembled to try pressurising it! Not too difficult,a well known way of finding any leakage.Ready? Piston at B D C to uncover all ports,spark plug in & tighten down. Next, cut a piece of steel or alloy about 3/16 thick to cover the exhaust port with a good gasket. There must be no leaks here to get meaningful readings. Next,do the same for the inlet manifold but drill a hole to fit in a Schrader valve from an old inner tube . Also you need to connect here a low pressure gauge ( from an old compressor) ? To monitor the pressure in the motor. Now put in about 6 or 7 LBS of pressure,no more than that as the seals would let go. The pressure should hold for several minutes, if it goes down too quickly,you need to see where from. If the pressure holds,it must be a carb: issue. I hope this helps, & apologies for a rather long reply, John. So

Hi saw miller,this is my first post having just joined. I am at present assembling a hybrid M 92 -M99 326 motor. Be aware only these 2 motors used a centre gasket of a particular size,all Bultaco centre gaskets look the same at a quick look. Worth checking. I always face my cases on a thick steel plate with fine grinding paste & a dash of diesel for 10 minutes or so. Surprising sometimes how many low spots show up because the cases are warped. I think your problem is a warped case. I now also use Viton seals on the crankshaft side of the motor.They are very expensive but are ethanol proof & last a lot longer than standard seals. A further check, the seal carriers are prone to cracking,have a look at that. On 2 of my bikes I have turned up from solid new seal carriers. Keep at it & let us know of any progress . I am John down on the Island of Jersey with 1 Lobito, 2 Alpinas & 1Metralla, all road usable.