leeson660

Cheers guys. I have done a lot of research already before I knew absolutely nothing!! Basically from everything I have read you can get 1.3mm, 1.4mm, 1.5mm, 1.6m, 1.8mm spacers. Your meant to use combination to hit the optimal 9.75mm - 9.85mm total width. The thicker the pack the harder the clutch lever will be. The reason I posted was because by my basic maths no combination of spacers i.e. 1.3mm x 2 will give me that measurement - hence my confusion! Any further advice would be great. Cheers James

Hi guys Apologies if anything I say is daft I don't have huge amount of mechanical experience so bear with me! I had the clutch replaced on my 2012 Pro Racing 280 a few months back. Since the new install the clutch lever is really stiff to the point where I'm getting really fatigued after short period of riding. Actual engagement and bite is great no slip at all and perfect for short run up stuff. I took the clutch out and measured the following: Plate 1: 1.4mm Plate 2: 1.5mm Total width: 10.21mm I understand it should be 9.75 - 9.80? I'm also aware I can get 1.3mm plates but that only brings me down to 10mm. Basically I'm after a lighter clutch so I can ride through sections without getting hand / arm pump on clutch side! I do want to be able to do fairly aggressive short run up stuff though so maybe 10mm will be correct balance? Fitness isn't an issue I ride a lot and never have an issue on any other bike. Any help / advice would be great. Thanks James

Hi mate is that in respect of the stiff clutch lever or the problems when cold?

Nice one thanks Dan much appreciated. Looks like a fairly big job but I'll give it a go!

Hi guys I have a strange problem with my 2012 Gas Gas TXT 280. The first time I engage first gear after starting / warming the bike up the clutch engages immediately sending the bike lurching forward. No matter what I do with the clutch lever it stays engaged for say 10 - 15 seconds then it will start working and the clutch disengages drive. Obviously its a bit of a nightmare as not being able to stop is a bit sketchy! After the first time the clutch is faultless for the rest of the ride. I use Putoline Light Gear Oil if that helps at all. This happened ever since I had the plates replaced. I've just had another workshop look at it and they did the clutch master cylinder seal kit (which made the clutch lever much harder to pull in) and bled the thing. The reckoned they had sorted the issue described above but unfortunately they haven't. Before I take it back in just thought I'd see if you guys had any ideas what it might be or whether your bikes have ever suffered the same issue? Hope the above makes sense. Any help greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance James

Fair enough In mtb trials its called a touch hop. I don't think I'd have a hope with a double blip on that height of rock. It was a flat run in with no kicker so the front touch definitely helped I think I'll give it a go with back wheel first next time. Cheers for the help appreciate it.

Thanks mate Yes ridden mtb trials for over 12 years but last 5 years been concentrating on DH. Rode MX for quite few years when younger which helps a lot too. Just loving learning a new discipline, got the same excited school kid feeling when first started riding trials learning new stuff every time I go out. Bugger! What's that technique actually called? Is there any disadvantage of using the front wheel bounce? Cheers

Hi chaps Bought my first moto trials bike a few months ago and I'm completely hooked. Just thought I'd post a vid of my first proper attempt at a splatter from this weekend. After a few fairly wild efforts managed to hook this one up https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oWmSLxTtFF0 Any comments / technique tips more than welcome. I love filming in the 120fps mode on the GoPro3, great for seeing where things are going right or wrong. Cheers James www.trials-uk.com

Just a quick update: New Galfer pads fitted, bit of a caliper clean up and a bleed and its spot on. Really nice lever feel and loads of power. Back wheel stuff making a lot more sense now Cheers for the help.

I repacked the silencer (right old game!) and it is definitely a bit quieter but still pops the same. If anything I packed it too tight but difficult to tell. I'm running 60:1 fuel / oil mix which I know is considered to be a bit overkill. Not sure if this could cause it? Next tank will be nearer 70:1. If anyone has the settings I'd like to check it anyway to make sure my bike is setup correctly. Cheers

Thanks for the heads up Steve. Point taken.It was my mistake for assuming the 'uprated' brakes on the pro version would be better than standard - lesson learnt do proper research Just a quick update: Rather than doing a full rebuild straight away I thought I'd try to bleed the brakes first. Post bleed rear brake is absolutely spot on. Really nice lever feel with loads of power. Time will tell how long it will last but for now I'm really pleased with the result. All the back wheel stuff is making a lot more sense now Thanks again for everyone's help and apologies for my simple questions - I'll post back if it all goes belly up!

Told you I was probably being simple Stupid question but have you put the circlip back in?

Hi Gareth Unless I'm being really simple (quite possible) the system shouldnt be under pressure as there's a overflow pipe. So there shouldn't really be any pressure certainly not enough to blow the thermo switch out of the rad. First thing I'd check is that the overflow pipe isnt blocked. In regards to hard wiring the fan as per above the disadvantages seem to be excessive wear on the fan and the engine may not reach optimum running temp. However for one trial it wouldn't hurt. Just my thoughts anyway. Cheers James

Ok thanks I'll give it a try and see if it does the trick. I do find it strange that there don't seem to be any aftermarket options for brakes for any trials bikes. Surely if someone designed a decent four pot setup for the rear with a bigger disc that really worked and was reliable people would pay the extra, I know I would. Anyway thanks for the info, any further advice much appreciated. Cheers

She is definitely a bit louder than I expected so it probably does need doing. I'll get it sorted and see if it stops the popping Thanks for the advice.

Cheers guys thanks for the replies. I really cant be dealing with bleeding the brake every few rides or having regular issues much rather upgrade. The bike already has the front 2013 Sherco forumla brakes and its awesome just want the back to perform the same! Other than going back to AJP are there any other brake upgrades? Can you fit rear brake from a newer model? Thanks James

Does anyone have recommended settings for the Keihin carb? 2012 280 Pro Racing. Bike runs pretty sweet but on tickover the exhaust 'pops' quite a bit - more so than others I've listened to on Youtube. I'd like to check the mixture is as per recommended. I've searched everywhere and cant find anything - sorry if I'm missing the obvious. Thanks

Hi guys I think I've buggered up my rear brake. Having busted my hand in a big DH crash a few weeks back I've occupied my evenings working on the gasser however a little knowledge is a dangerous thing and all that. Completely new to all this so bear with me. My rear brake hasn't been very powerful since I bought the bike few months ago. I tried the getting it hot then putting water on it which worked a treat for a very short period giving a nice sharp confidence inspiring bite but then shortly after it went back to the way it was before. Ordered some Galfer pads which I hoped would do the trick. I took the rear wheel off, had a look at the caliper and it all looked pretty manky in there. So went about trying to give the pistons / caliper a quick clean using brake cleaner. To do this with the old pads out I pumped the rear brake lever to work the pistons out as far as I'd dare. Clean them then push them back in again - repeating this process about 5 times. All looking nice and clean, new pads in, wheel back on job done. Only problem is now the rear brake pedal goes down in two stages with a nice crunching noise. No power in the rear brake at all until right at the bottom where it just about locks the rear wheel. For what its worth the pads do feel like they will bite much better if everything was working properly! Three questions really: What did I do wrong? What has happened? Cost considerations aside what is the best rear brake I can get for my bike without major modification? Coming from mountain bike trials I do really want a really good powerful rear brake and Formula don't seem to be regarded as being very good from what I have read. Like I said go easy on me I'm new to working on brakes in general, mtb disc brakes are very much fit and forget. Any help much appreciated.

Thanks for the info - slowly learning! I was just about to ask if there's actually any disadvantage / reason why I don't just hard wire it and have the fan running all the time? I'd rather have it on all the time than wondering whether it should be coming on!

Worked an absolute treat thanks guys. New thermo switch installed which thankfully cured the problem with rubber grease applied Thanks again

Hi chaps Just a quick update for anyone searching for a solution. With coolant at correct level steam started coming from the radiator overflow pipe again without the fan coming on. After a bit of further investigation and knowledge it turned out the thermostat was faulty. New one fitted, tested the bike tonight and the fan kicks in much quicker and much more often than before. Thanks again for all the help.

Thanks guys much appreciated. I'll give it a try and hopefully it'll come out. Rubber grease ordered for the new installation

Hi guys I'm trying to remove the thermostat to replace as I'm still not confident the fan is working as it should but am having difficulty. Top right of radiator - I've removed the cir-clip holding the thermostat in. I've tried pouring hot water down the gaps to help free up the o-ring. Still the thing will not budge. I wanted to check on here first before I give it too much just in case there was any tips / technique to removing. Any help would be much appreciated. Cheers James

Hi guys. Thanks for the replies. I what you said jfc and made sure the coolant was at the correct level. Went for a last night for a good 1hr 1/2, absolutely no problems at all with the fan working as it should Thanks again for all your help very much appreciated. Cheers James

Thanks for the info I'll give that a try. Glad that it isn't the norm! If I am to replace the pads - any recommendations?