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leeson660

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  1. Cheers guys. I have done a lot of research already before I knew absolutely nothing!! Basically from everything I have read you can get 1.3mm, 1.4mm, 1.5mm, 1.6m, 1.8mm spacers. Your meant to use combination to hit the optimal 9.75mm - 9.85mm total width. The thicker the pack the harder the clutch lever will be. The reason I posted was because by my basic maths no combination of spacers i.e. 1.3mm x 2 will give me that measurement - hence my confusion! Any further advice would be great. Cheers James
  2. Hi guys Apologies if anything I say is daft I don't have huge amount of mechanical experience so bear with me! I had the clutch replaced on my 2012 Pro Racing 280 a few months back. Since the new install the clutch lever is really stiff to the point where I'm getting really fatigued after short period of riding. Actual engagement and bite is great no slip at all and perfect for short run up stuff. I took the clutch out and measured the following: Plate 1: 1.4mm Plate 2: 1.5mm Total width: 10.21mm I understand it should be 9.75 - 9.80? I'm also aware I can get 1.3mm plates but that only brings me down to 10mm. Basically I'm after a lighter clutch so I can ride through sections without getting hand / arm pump on clutch side! I do want to be able to do fairly aggressive short run up stuff though so maybe 10mm will be correct balance? Fitness isn't an issue I ride a lot and never have an issue on any other bike. Any help / advice would be great. Thanks James
  3. Hi mate is that in respect of the stiff clutch lever or the problems when cold?
  4. Nice one thanks Dan much appreciated. Looks like a fairly big job but I'll give it a go!
  5. Hi guys I have a strange problem with my 2012 Gas Gas TXT 280. The first time I engage first gear after starting / warming the bike up the clutch engages immediately sending the bike lurching forward. No matter what I do with the clutch lever it stays engaged for say 10 - 15 seconds then it will start working and the clutch disengages drive. Obviously its a bit of a nightmare as not being able to stop is a bit sketchy! After the first time the clutch is faultless for the rest of the ride. I use Putoline Light Gear Oil if that helps at all. This happened ever since I had the plates replaced. I've just had another workshop look at it and they did the clutch master cylinder seal kit (which made the clutch lever much harder to pull in) and bled the thing. The reckoned they had sorted the issue described above but unfortunately they haven't. Before I take it back in just thought I'd see if you guys had any ideas what it might be or whether your bikes have ever suffered the same issue? Hope the above makes sense. Any help greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance James
  6. Fair enough In mtb trials its called a touch hop. I don't think I'd have a hope with a double blip on that height of rock. It was a flat run in with no kicker so the front touch definitely helped I think I'll give it a go with back wheel first next time. Cheers for the help appreciate it.
  7. Thanks mate Yes ridden mtb trials for over 12 years but last 5 years been concentrating on DH. Rode MX for quite few years when younger which helps a lot too. Just loving learning a new discipline, got the same excited school kid feeling when first started riding trials learning new stuff every time I go out. Bugger! What's that technique actually called? Is there any disadvantage of using the front wheel bounce? Cheers
  8. Hi chaps Bought my first moto trials bike a few months ago and I'm completely hooked. Just thought I'd post a vid of my first proper attempt at a splatter from this weekend. After a few fairly wild efforts managed to hook this one up https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oWmSLxTtFF0 Any comments / technique tips more than welcome. I love filming in the 120fps mode on the GoPro3, great for seeing where things are going right or wrong. Cheers James www.trials-uk.com
  9. Just a quick update: New Galfer pads fitted, bit of a caliper clean up and a bleed and its spot on. Really nice lever feel and loads of power. Back wheel stuff making a lot more sense now Cheers for the help.
  10. I repacked the silencer (right old game!) and it is definitely a bit quieter but still pops the same. If anything I packed it too tight but difficult to tell. I'm running 60:1 fuel / oil mix which I know is considered to be a bit overkill. Not sure if this could cause it? Next tank will be nearer 70:1. If anyone has the settings I'd like to check it anyway to make sure my bike is setup correctly. Cheers
  11. Thanks for the heads up Steve. Point taken.It was my mistake for assuming the 'uprated' brakes on the pro version would be better than standard - lesson learnt do proper research Just a quick update: Rather than doing a full rebuild straight away I thought I'd try to bleed the brakes first. Post bleed rear brake is absolutely spot on. Really nice lever feel with loads of power. Time will tell how long it will last but for now I'm really pleased with the result. All the back wheel stuff is making a lot more sense now Thanks again for everyone's help and apologies for my simple questions - I'll post back if it all goes belly up!
  12. Told you I was probably being simple Stupid question but have you put the circlip back in?
  13. Hi Gareth Unless I'm being really simple (quite possible) the system shouldnt be under pressure as there's a overflow pipe. So there shouldn't really be any pressure certainly not enough to blow the thermo switch out of the rad. First thing I'd check is that the overflow pipe isnt blocked. In regards to hard wiring the fan as per above the disadvantages seem to be excessive wear on the fan and the engine may not reach optimum running temp. However for one trial it wouldn't hurt. Just my thoughts anyway. Cheers James
  14. Ok thanks I'll give it a try and see if it does the trick. I do find it strange that there don't seem to be any aftermarket options for brakes for any trials bikes. Surely if someone designed a decent four pot setup for the rear with a bigger disc that really worked and was reliable people would pay the extra, I know I would. Anyway thanks for the info, any further advice much appreciated. Cheers
  15. She is definitely a bit louder than I expected so it probably does need doing. I'll get it sorted and see if it stops the popping Thanks for the advice.
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