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chapelfarmer

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About chapelfarmer

  • Rank
    New Member

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  • Bike
    cota 247 bsa c15

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  • Location
    home counties
  1. Just looking at the advice above re oils and capacities - can somebody confirm that they will work in my 1979 247 please? Or recommend alternatives? Many thanks capacities I have are - clutch = 200 cc 10/20w or ATF, gearbox = 300cc 10/40w or 75w (should be a GL4 oil due to brass/bronze parts in there), forks = 190ml 10, 20, or ATF (use different weight oil to suit rider, but action should be "soft" compared to dirt bike), original mix is 25:1 with engine oil, but modern synthetics can run up to 50:1 - I use 40:1 with top grade oil and non additive unleaded gas in my older 2 strokes.
  2. Hi Can anyone enlighten me? My Cota 247 (1979) was restored about 10 years ago by somebody extremely expert but with whom I have since lost touch. It has had pretty gentle use since but is regularly exercised. Today I ran it for about 20 minutes and then died. It normally seta's first kick. After about 10 minutes resting it started again and ran happily for another 10 minutes. Then repeated the process. It was almost as if it was overheating but it's been a cold day and it wasn't doing much work. There was plenty of fuel flowing. The bike has an electronic ignition (with a small square red kill switch if that rings any bells). Can anyone suggest where to start hunting? I should add that the bike has had very little maintenance, in fact I've barely changed anything other than the oil in the time I've had it. Many thanks John
  3. Hello - it's me again (original poster). Many thanks to everyone for all the advice and suggestions. I've spoken to Falcon - super-helpful and the advice is to get the gearing right first and then move on to the shocks (gearing = sprockets = chain clearance). They can provide shocks that can be adjusted later for length but ideally I'd try to get it right first time obviously. So I wondered whether anyone can advise: - ideal sprocket sizes for this type of bike (with a view to swinging arm clearance) - how I can assess the gearing inside my gearbox i.e. road or trials ratios? At present it feels like 4 X fairly close fairly low gears but 1st is not super low e.g. wants a bit of clutch at the bottom of a steep hill before a turn - which I'm told is a bad thing for a BSA.... Finally, is it possible to fit a B40 barrel on a C15 crankcase? And if so how would somebody know? Are there external differences? This bike feels much more powerful than 350cc. Any ideas? Many thanks once again to everyone - I love this forum! John
  4. Hello my bike has knackered 11.9" shocks and everyone says to fit 340mm but when I open the gap to 340 my chain comes hard up against the swinging arm. Does anyone know whether my weight (14.5 stone) on the pegs will be enough to counter this? If not do you know where I can buy affordable 11.9" trials shocks please? Thanks John. PS sprocket is 62 tooth. photos show 11.9 in place and 340 gap. Gap closes enough to lift chain free at 310mm by the way
  5. Many thanks for the advice both. It does indeed run straight relative to the chain line so I guess that's why it's like it is....Plus looking at photos on the web they all seem to be a bit one-sided. I suppose I could move the rim across a bit by adjusting the spokes as you suggest but I wonder whether it's necessary and there's a very very small available gap behind the chain guard anyway? I think I'll try just riding it for a while and see whether it's making a problem at all. I suspect not. John
  6. Hello - I've just bought a B40 frame / C15 bike and have now got it running - sounds fantastic! I was going to put a new back mudguard on the bike but when I took off the existing one I found that the rear wheel runs very much closer to the shock absorber on the silencer side of the frame than to the one on the chain side. The rear wheel runs in fact about 1" off the centre line of the rest of the rest of the frame (or so it looks to me). Is this normal? And if it is how do I fit my nice shiny new 5" mudguard? It won't easily line up with the little holes in the bracket behind the seat - or at least not in a way that runs 'true'. I do of course have 342 other questions about the bike but I thought I'd start with this one! Thanks for any help or advice John PS shock absorbers are only 300mm long if that makes any difference?
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