hopkins92

My shop manual and these postings disagree on whether the stick is screwed in or not. However, the manual says that an oil and filter change require 440 cc to replenish the engine oil. On my bike, 440 cc makes the level read on the upper mark with the stick screwed in. I think my problem started on my first oil change when I kept adding oil until the level reached the upper mark with the stick out and I hadn't measured the total added. It's all getting very fuzzy, if not fussy!

Update: I added oil very carefully until I reached the upper level with the stick screwed in, which was a total of 440 cc (oil had been drained and filter changed). I have now ridden the bike several times and used one tank of gas. So far, the engine oil level has not changed. Replacement of seals has been postponed until more exciting oil things happen.

I let it sit for 24 hours with a full gearbox and no oil leaked into the engine. Changing out that seal is at the edge of my knowledge, skills, and collection of special tools. I think I'll finish the oil/filter change and carefully avoid overfilling. I'll check the dipstick frequently during rides. If it starts sucking gearbox oil again, I'll contact my dealer and let him do the dirty work. Thanks.

Yes, I found oil in the airbox after the first oil change. I must have over filled the engine at the time. Then, it happened again after the gearbox drained into the engine.

I was changing the oils in my 2005 4RT today. I found that the engine had over 900 cc of oil in it and the gearbox had about 5 cc. I don't think this is a good thing. How did all the gearbox oil get over to the engine? I found an earlier post about engine oil going into the gearbox due to a pinched breather tube. All my breather hoses are open. I put 540 cc in the gearbox and left the engine cover off to see if any gearbox oil is going to run through to the engine overnight. Does anybody have any advice or opinions?

I did a filter change and then used the "more is better" method. I'll bring it up slower next time.

Thanks, Don, I went to the school of hard knocks on thumpers. Your tips are all right on the money. My right leg is an inch shorter after 30 years of owning a Triumph TR5MX Avenger. That bike exacted much vengeance when I was so audacious as to expect it to start up and run, especially when hot. I used gold-tipped Champion plugs in it. As for the 4RT, I took it to the Trials Training Center on Sunday and it ran like a scalded cat on the formerly dead plug. The new plugs didn't arrive on time. Viva!

Well, my breather must be clear because there was about 100 cc of oil in the airbox after the first time I changed oil. Getting the oil level right is tricky business.

Thanks, ferretflasher. I think I'm on board with your suggestions except for the coil HT earthing. I'll check that soon. I hope to put the bike in its first trial this weekend, so I'll have an opportunity to run it more at higher speeds than in my backyard. As for pressure washing, I don't do that to motor vehicles, but the previous owner may have done so. I have found some rust and corrosion in odd places for such a new machine.

I'm using premium pump gas as recommended by US Montesa. That's 93 octane in this part of the US (Atlanta, Georgia). I forget the exact octane equation, but it's something like (R + M)/2, which is different from RON.

Okay, I've got the white ring installed toward the fuel cap now. It was upside down before. Thanks.

After soaking the plug overnight in lacquer thinner and blowing it dry, I finally got the bike to start and run as before. It is very hard to get that tiny central insulator clean enough to prevent arcing to the side.

I bought my bike used, so I'm not sure if the check valve is a factory item. The 4rt pictures on the Montesa advertising do not show a valve. Mine is spliced into the middle of the breather hose. The valve does have a white ring, but I'll have to run home to see which direction it faces. Thanks.

Thanks, gentlemen. I see that the factory pictures of 4RTs do not show a check valve in the breather hose. Also, the parts book that I downloaded via this site (thanks very much!) doesn't list a valve, either. I'm going to turn the hose end for end so that air will go into the tank and gas can't spash out of the hose. If the engine works the same or better, I'll quit while I am ahead.

I'm joining the 4rt Won't Start Club. I took my spark plug out just to check it and clean it. It was very sooty. Now the former 2-kick bike is one of those "pigs" to start. I am going to follow all the advice in this thread to see if it helps. However, why is it running so rich? Finally, see my post about the upside down fuel cap breather check valve. I don't know if that led to the richness and starting failures. I wouldn't think so if it had a carburetor, but fuel injection is new to me. It's Friday and it still won't start. Soaking the plug in laquer thinner seemed to wake it up a little, but still no joy. A new plug is on the way.