biffco

How much are they from Steve ? And what is a clutch lightening arm? And how much too ?

Which do people recommend ??

I have a contact email address for Steve of - steve@marlimar-uk.wanadoo.co.uk I have sent an email and it has been getting bounced back everyday since about Wednesday. Does anyone if it has changed ??

I have just found out that where I thought I had a 250 MAR, it is in fact a 350. Last year I brought a new Minuki carb for the bike but spec'ed for a 250. What jets and setting should I change too?? i have noticed the bike has a low down flat spot , so hopefully this is the reason why?!

Why a strong grip ??

The engine no, and frame no. Are the same.

This list also seems to confirm it. I guess my bike is one of the last '75 350's ??

The frame number starts B 2425## I have found the below chart that doesn't go this high, but on the marked column it is just below. If this is correct then it is a 350?? Has anyone else got a different list that has my frame no on it ? ( I don't see it on the link above)

Hi Stan, how do I check this ? Can I remove the right hand cover and pull the rod out ? Can I then retrieve the ball if it's still there ? Maybe with a magnet ? if it's behind the seal on the output shaft how do I check for this ? cheers james

During a trial this weekend I noticed a creaking from the clutch mechanism whilst pulling in the lever. It is also heavier and notchier than my mates OSSA clutch. The noise seems to come from the cable, but I worry it might be transmitting up the cable from the clutch arm ?? Will a cable be the answer to my problems, and is there any way to make it lighter than it is ?

Thanks for the replies. In responce to some of the questions/ comments. The tank isn't the original. When I got the bike, it had been imported from Italy, and came with the fibreglass tank. I have since fitted an ally one. I too have fitted a Minuki carb as the original Amal 626 was very much worn out. I have found out the hard way about the sump plug, as I caught the original and have cracked the sump What is the thread size for this so I can get a replacement plug ? I'll get the engine number net time I'm near the bike. I had noticed the rear axel slot had been lengthen too. This will of shortened the wheel base, is this a good thing ? I'll take a look at the spark plug , the middle hole currently has a decompressor gizmo in it. Does anyone else think this will make a difference as it is or should I put the spark plug back in the centre hole?

Has anyone had any luck with the cheaper levers on eBay? Or are they a waist of money ??

I have an OSSA that has come from Italy. It was sold as a 250 , which I beleve it to be, but today at a trial it was pointed out that as I have cutout on my fins, that it may be a 350?? The engine no. Matches the frame no. But the number doesn't show up on any of the lists I have seen. Any info in aging the bike etc would be appreciated. Or even recommended upgrades, mods etc...

C3 bearings have greater clearance between the balls and track. This allows for higher running temperatures. When the bearings expand due to the heat the running tolerances are up to specification.

Following the last trail I did, I now unfortunately have a crack between the sump plug hole and the case edge. I assume the only way to fix this will be to strip the engine and get it welded ?! With this in mind what parts at a bare minimum will I require ( seals, gaskets, bearing etc...) I don't know anything about the history of the engine, the power seems ok ( though I have never rode another MAR to compare it to), but whilst it's apart what else would you suggest I consider doing to it ? On the same trial that I cracked it, it started slipping out of first gear and going to neutral. I have re-ground a better point on to the detent pin which has improved it. Again whilst I have the thing in bits, is there anything else I should consider replacing to improve the gear selection ? These are photos of the cracked sump and of the piston and bore looking through the exhaust port.