In the US, you not only have Skidoo's and Seadoos's to choose from but Rotax makes motors used in Ultralites. The pistons are original Elko's only thing you have to get sorted is the needle roller cage as they need to be wider. OEM does not use a cage but free floating rollers with thrust washers. I have used MZ 250ST cages so far with no problems encountered.
The other problem is, they are either red or green dot parts and are a bit more expensive. That said, anything you now buy from the UK is subject to all sorts of taxes so it could be a swings and roundabout thing.
Which way you choose to go is your choice of course but with some searching and using such forums, there are alternatives available.
The open spring side of the seal faces inward (the cranckcase). If the seals are fitted correctly, there could be a gasket problem, a crack in the case or the 'O' ring/s under the crankcase nuts and bolts are shot. Not at all easy to diagnose from a description.
I'd go for a full stripdown. All of the parts are available.
Hi, has anybody gone to the trouble of replacing the silent bloc swingarm bushes on an 81 TLNW320 with needle rollers or some other alternative ?
I'm building a 'Bitsa' using a TL frame and swinger and just wondered if anybody might have done such and would be willing to share their experiences ?
Hi, I tried a set of Shinko's on my SWM TLNW 125. Went to a trial which was wet and muddy and decided after the first section that the tyres needed to go. The front just loaded up and worked like a slick. Shinko's are probably ok for a field bike or if you are content at being last in class in a competition.
I went for a set of Golden Tyre Gekko's. I found them really good and when I got my TLNW 320 rebuilt, wanted a set for it too. The tyres were removed from the market though and I went for a set of IRC's. They are great tyres for me in all conditions. I can't comment on Michelin's as I've never had any on one of my bikes (yet).
Lots of ignition/spark problems are caused by a bad earth, check that first. Was so on my 247. Changed everything but the earth lead, when I finally did, put all the old kit back.
No disrespect intended Keychange but if you've found something, please supply the Link. The search results vary depending on what part of the world you're in.
Sammy Miller was taken over, all products can now be found at Feked.com
I looked there first and found nothing compatible.
Hi Carl, petroleum safe it is but they didn't look into the crystal ball to see that petroleum companies would be removing lead and adding ethanol.
I asked Aral, here in Germany, what fuel they could recommend for old bikes with GFK tanks. Their answer was to use Ultimate 102, it has not ethanol or other GFK aggresive additives. The same would probably apply for all of the high octane products available such as Shell V power etc, but would need to be checked with the company concerned for the product/s in question.
I have the same problems as Section Swept with a 348 and a 247 at present.
Hi, my frame extensions are welded from both sides and should be strong enough without any webbing.
I've attached the 'basic' template so you can see roughly whats required. What you can't see in the pic is thet the part of the pedal visible is in fact curved from top to bottom along the length of it which helps to keep it stable ang give it some torsional strength.
It now needs to be stripped and tarted up so that it also looks the part. I the meantime I've also fitted a modded Aprilia Climber primary and clutch case and some new MX levers which allow for easy adjustment and positioning of the lever restpoint. Something I wanted but will not be something for everyone. Need to test them for a while before deciding to keep them or go back tu the old Magura ones.
Hi, thanks for the replies but I want a pair of matching levers and I do not want to put bits where the shouldn't be, technology has evolved and there must be some decent levers out there somewhere for cable front brakes and cable operated clutches. The clutch lever and perch seems to be addressed in the MX and enduro world but noth the front brake.
Hi, can anyone help me find a set of levers, cable brake and clutch, where not only the pull can be adjusted but the resting position of the lever as well ?
After moving the pegs down and back, the next hurdle was the brake pedal. It was quite a mind boggle to fabricate a lever that could be covered whilst still being planted on the footpeg. What made ir even more of a challange was the lack of space available due to having a swingarm from a TX 300 Aprilia fitted.
Anyway, after a few tries and mods it now works 'Like' the original and I'm happy.
Hi Oldaz, bit late for you now but I bought an earlier model than yours a few months ago and have been faced with just about the same set of problems as you.
My tip to everybody would be, go out and spends wads of cash on an endoscope before you do anything else.
Mine fits my android phone and a windows 7 notebook/laptop. You can look inside tanks, bores, gearboxes, you name it.
Mine came with a 90 degree mirror ad adapter, a magnet attachment and a small hook. The software allows you to take stills and make videos.
There are loads available for all sorts of end devices and the wads of cash was € 20. Well worth it as far as I'm concerned.
280 Piston
in SWM
Posted
In the US, you not only have Skidoo's and Seadoos's to choose from but Rotax makes motors used in Ultralites. The pistons are original Elko's only thing you have to get sorted is the needle roller cage as they need to be wider. OEM does not use a cage but free floating rollers with thrust washers. I have used MZ 250ST cages so far with no problems encountered.
The other problem is, they are either red or green dot parts and are a bit more expensive. That said, anything you now buy from the UK is subject to all sorts of taxes so it could be a swings and roundabout thing.
Which way you choose to go is your choice of course but with some searching and using such forums, there are alternatives available.