katoom400

You are welcome! My buddy has a 23 and I just noticed it has the fender bolt in the front, so you may be able to do the same thing i did just with the seat backwards. I added some Velcro under the front today and it's really solid now.

I know the 23 is different than my 21 as far as fender and mounting options, but I bought a $20 tall CRF50 pit bike seat from Amazon and made it work on my 21 TXT 250. Took about 30 minutes to modify the base a bit with a heat gun and drill some holes. I'de like to make a key slot and post for the front, but for now it's bolted in the rear using the factory fender hole/screw (you would probably have to drill a hole in your fender) and the front is held down with a red zip tie and it's pretty solid. I did pack out the bottom with rubber so it doesn't flex when I sit on it. It's not as factory looking as the GG contact seat but for $20 I'm happy to have something to sit on that doesn't look horrible. And forget the Jitsie "seat" it's more comfortable to sit on the airbox! https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09YRF7CY6?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details&th=1

Thanks, but need to find US based retailer. from my research it seems 8.0 spring for the rear (7.0 is stock) and Jitsie offers two options for the fork 6.8-9.5 and 7.3-10.0 Also I'm coming from an enduro background and relatively new to trials, but it seems most of the more experienced guys I'm riding with are around my same weight and still running stock springs? Is it not as much of an issue as it would be on an enduro bike?

Hi Guys, Just picked up a 2021 TXT 250 (not GP) with tech ally forks and ohlins rear shock. I'm ~ 220lbs (100kg) in gear. I'm thinking I need to change the front and rear springs to suite my weight. What rates do I need?

no idea, going to have the wheel re laced.

It is visibly offset (not at an angle) to the right side.

Buddy just picked up a 2013 Evo 300 and we went riding for the first time yesterday. the front wheel is visibly offset to the left when looking at the front of the bike. However. the fender is in the middle between the fork legs but the wheel is well offset to the left. Is this normal? We did check to make sure the axle was tight and it was so I don't know how we could get the wheel centered as the rotor also seemed lined up in the caliper?

Thank you sir!

Can anyone tell me the correct part number for the braktec mineral oil clutch master cylinder rebuild kit for a 2014 TXT 280 Pro. I was told that certain years took a special kit?

Starts just fine for me, One of my friends with a TXT300 told me the secret to starting them is to put it in gear, roll it back till it stops, hold the clutch in and kick and it will start first shot. So far he was right although I've only started it maybe 10 times.

a 2014 TXT 280 pro racing popped up locally yesterday and I grabbed it. It's well ridden but in decent shape and the price was right so I could sell it without losing anything when it's time to upgrade.

hmmm that's saying a lot to be happier with bike that is a decade older! Whats better of the Factory edition vs the standard other than the bling?

yeah, I run a Dunlop D803 on my Beta300rr and I thought they were getting expensive at $140USD, The Michelin X-light is 2x the cost here! I can't image ever needing that tire in my lifetime!

Hi Guys, I had posted this in the Sherco forum earlier this week, but the bike I was looking at fell thru which was a 2017 ST300. New to trials (coming from many years of Enduro) so don't want to spend a heap on a first bike. I'm now looking at a 2019 Beta 250 Factory bike and wanted to hear the good and bad of this bike compared to say a recent model GG250 or 300 which seem to be more available on the used market in my area. Thanks

Thanks for the all the replies guys! The Sherco didn't work out so I'm back on the hunt!

Thanks for the info! I've ridden some modern 300 trials bikes (GasGas and Beta) and while the power is certainly strong, I'm not intimidated by it. At least not for what I'm doing anyway.

Yes, I agree that a 300 is certainly not needed for any beginner in trials. I've ridden Xtrainers, and owned many 200 enduro bikes and I know that less is usually more. However, I would not be competing or doing real proper (tight) trials courses. I'm working with a budget and what is available in my area at the moment. So I'm not asking what displacement is best for a novice, just looking for some information about the bike I'm considering. I would be getting the bike at a good enough price that if I get into trials more and want a different displacement or newer bike, I could sell it without losing anything. Thanks!

Thanks for the great information! I should have mentioned, I'm not going to be doing "proper" trials competitions. More play riding and cross training for hard enduro type riding on my 300 enduro bike.

Hi Guys, New to trials (coming from Enduro) so don't want to spend a heap on a first bike, but a buddy has a 2017 Sherco ST300 for sale at a decent price and he keeps his stuff in perfect order. Anything to look out for on the 2017? I'm familiar with Sherco Enduro bikes, not the trials bikes. How do they compare to say GG or Beta of similar years?

just getting into the sport, coming from riding enduro for the last 20 yrs. I bought a 02 270 Rev3 and really don't know much about trials bikes at all. The forks were leaking and I took them to my normal suspension tuner to get serviced. The rear shock bolt was so seized in the swing arm I had to bring him the whole swingarm and shock together so he could get the bolt out with the help of a bridgeport. Now that he has the bolt out and is ready to service the shock he was wondering if I had heard of anyone doing anything special with the valving or is everyone just leaving them stock and changing spring for weight? I'm about 205lbs, so most likely the spring is too soft for me as well. thanks for any advice.

Thanks for the replies. I've been busy with some other stuff this week and haven't had time to dig into this yet. some searching found that the best penetrant for seized bolts is a 50/50 mix of ATF and acetone. I saw a chart from a magazine article that it was 4 X as effective as liquid wrench. So I'm going to try soaking it for a week in this mixture first.

so if I understand post #17, he bought a dremel bit and used it in a drill to grind away ~ 1/2 of the bolt head, but still left enough material to use a 8mm hex driver in the bot to remove it. if the bolt head is the same as the top bolt, it's probably ~ 15mm in height so there would be enough material to do this.... I just worry about not having enough left for a good bite with the hex bit and "rounding" out the hex hole.... but I guess it worked for him..... wondering what kind of bit he used?

update, I got the hex bit out of the bolt, but I'm back to the same problem....how to get that damn bolt out of the swingarm. it's stuck like nothing I've ever seen before, got a good snap-on 8mm hex bit and 2' breaker bar and it wouldn't budge...I was scared of snapping another bit off and stopped, it even twisted the snap-on bit... tried soaking it in Pb BLASTER, heating around the head of the bolt, back of the nut.. shocking it with hammer...impact wrench......nothings working... looking for any suggestions to get that sucker out

I've got the same problem, but worse! I just picked up a 2002 rev 3, (shock was never off) and I was sending the suspension out to be serviced and found the bolt was seized, I tried heat to no avail, tried shocking it with a hammer and then tried an impact wrench with a 8mm hex bit and sure enough the bit snapped off in the bolt inside the swingarm...gonna be a PIA to get that out...any suggestions?

I just picked up a 2002 beta rev 3 270, and while testing in the parking lot fuel was coming out the overflow...just assumed the float was sticking as it did stop. I'll have to have a look. real quick qestion: without pulling the fuel line to check, which petcock position is closed, open, and reserve. the previous owner told me arrow pointing towards the cylinder is off, down-on, and back towards air boot is reserve. Does this sound right