I think a 130 would be ok for normal trials use where the bike only hits full throttle for short bursts, but by the sounds of it the bike was being ridden more like a road/trail bike where it would be on the main jet for quite some time so I would definitely go bigger if you intend doing this style of riding - 140 /150. If you go too big the engine wont rev cleanly and will splutter on full throttle.
Elf is used as standard in the Honda Montesa 4rt and the importer/ dealer will usually carry it or know where to get it from. It is the lightest gearbox oil I have found and I would assume this is why it works so well. The GRO extreme oil is the closest I have found to the ELF, but I still prefer the ELF.
I have been using Elf htx 740 for over 10 yrs now and it is with out a doubt the best oil I have used. Started using it in my Gasgas originally as its the only oil that stops clutch drag and allows me to find neutral easily. Some where years ago someone told me it was developed for motoGP bikes as a low friction oil to increase HP, not sure if that's true but who knows. I also use it in Bullys along with fibre clutch plates and once again, neutral is easy to find, no clutch drag or slip when starting and using the bike. I dont use it in the bully gearbox because it is really thin and if you drop the bike it pours out through the vent hole whereas conventional gearbox oil doesn't. GRO also make a really light oil that is really good also.Hope this helps cheers Greg
I was like you, always had a desire to have a 199B, but here in Australia they are very rare as they were never imported here. So when I had a chance to purchase one I couldn't pass it up. Now the problem is what do I do with it as it nears completion , ride it or leave it in the shed? I have a real nice 199A which I compete on which has lots of subtle modifications whereas the B is essentially standard except for a Dellorto carbie, late model footpegs and fibre clutch plates. I'll post some pictures next week when its finished.
There are a couple of taps that fit the original tank, two of mine have early model Sherco taps which have the same bolt spacing and I just realised that the tap I purchased off inmotion has a detachable 12mm threaded part, that screws into a block that has the two 6mm holes, so it looks like it would fit the earlier style fitting, so in effect it would fit both styles of tank.
PS I would check with them first as I don't have an earlier tank to test this out on.
All the blue plastic tanks I have seen have had the two captive 6mm nuts in the plastic that the tap is attached to, the red199 tank I am pretty sure has a 12mm thread
PS I have no idea what tap fits the UK alloy tanks, but I assume they are UK only?
I made my own after giving up trying to buy one, the problem is that they only fit the 'b' models. It was a fair bit of fiddly work as I just copied photos.
I am not that great with electronics, but I have electric arc welded footpeg mounts on many Bultacos, with the points ignition system intact, and have never had a problem.
I had to buy a header pipe/muffler for my 199B, bought one from Spain on Ebay from a 199A. It does fit the 199B- no modifications, but I cant be 100% sure it was from a 199A. I would imagine that any pipe from a 199, 199A 0r 199B would fit [the bolt on flange type] even if a little massaging was required, depends how handy you are.
Hi, I made this table a couple of years ago as a reference. [the measurements are averages as most are 'as cast' not machined- some have a 1/4mm oval variation]
All the 325 powered bikes I have owned had the heavier flywheels on both sides, including a 159 and a 191, all owned from new. From the 159 onwards the engines pretty much all perform the same in my opinion. Differences in bikes I would put down to the type of carburetor being used and also the timing of the ignition system and general freshness of the engine. Bings make good power but I always found them finicky, Mk 2 Amals are better off the bottom but not as strong up top [27mm] and wear out quickly, Dellortos are good as are the 28mm keihin flatslide. I purchased an oko [keihin knockoff] off ebay and could not get it to work at all and ended up throwing it away and replacing with a genuine keihin. The keihin is smoother than the dellorto and makes more top end and is pretty easy to jet, however I didn't spend as much time as I should have on the Dellorto as flatslides became legal where I compete. I have tried to use Mikunis in the past with varied success, I found them really very smooth but always thought they were lacking in power in comparison to other brands - just a personal preference thing. By the way a friend has a 28mm flatslide mikuni on his 159 and it runs really well with plenty of power.
This can be a real problem, the solution is to either take the bike to a bike shop and have the brake system vacuum bled or buy a vacuum pump kit yourself. Luckily I have a bike shop 5mins away from me where a mate who rides trials works and if I cant get a firm brake after a couple of goes myself, I take it to him and he does it in about 10mins. Google vacuum brake bleeding to get a better idea. The shop shouldn't charge you too much to do it if you have your own brake fluid etc-$20
The blue one is an M92 series 1 325cc ,the slimlines[tank shape] are possibly one of the prettiest bullys made however, If you are actually going to ride and compete on one of them the red one is the better bet.
Bultacos are great but I am biased. Parts are reasonably easy to pick up, there are a few suppliers and plenty of reproduction parts available. The restoration cost/difficulty depends on how much you are prepared or are capable of doing yourself, the bikes themselves are quite basic and simple to work on and reliable as well. I assume you are referring to the red bike which should have M199[1978] stamped on the headstock and on the engine cases near the oil filler plug [198 is a 250]. The bike looks like a good project as it appears to be in reasonable condition and just as important it looks to be complete [missing either the gearchange or brakepedal on the right side] The blue bike looks like an M92 325 1972/73
It may prove difficult to machine the 5 speed gear to suit the 6 speed box as the gear teeth should be case hardened to provide a hard wearing surface. Whether or not the case hardening extends down the face is anybody's guess.
Just pulled the chain and sprocket off my 199B as I couldn't remember what the difference was and also couldn't remember buying a different sprocket. So the difference is in the sleeve/spacer that goes between the sprocket and bearing has a larger Outside diameter 35mm - still has the same ID 25mm. So the shaft is still 25mm and a std sprocket fits obviously. The difference is the sprocket is tightened up against an increased surface area 35/25 as originally 30/25 -maybe increased rigidity. I assume maybe this was an upgrade to fix the problem, who knows?? My cases have been bored out to fit the larger seal OD45 / ID35 original is OD40 / ID30. My engine number is 199 14033 B. Hope this helps
Thanks bondy, any chance of photos of the 5 speed gear for comparison. I know the sleeve that slides over the shaft behind the sprocket is different on mine compared,to the 5 speed, as I had to make one- couldn't buy one anywhere
As Woody has already said the gear is the same number of teeth as the five speed box, so if anyone could compare the two gears to see what the difference is, I think this would be beneficial for all of us 199B owners- bondy? I am not aware of this being a problem on the 5 speeds so I wonder if they narrowed the gears in order to fit sixth in the box, never thought to check when I had mine apart.
Overheating problem?
in Bultaco
Posted
I think a 130 would be ok for normal trials use where the bike only hits full throttle for short bursts, but by the sounds of it the bike was being ridden more like a road/trail bike where it would be on the main jet for quite some time so I would definitely go bigger if you intend doing this style of riding - 140 /150. If you go too big the engine wont rev cleanly and will splutter on full throttle.