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About sherpa325

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    4xbultaco, gasgas300

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  1. Alloy guards look great,but are not very practical if you are going to ride/compete on the bike. The plastic ones are the same style, cheaper and a lot more practical and come in a variety of colours
  2. That's reasonably tall gearing, standard is 11/39 and most around here are running 11/40 to 11/42 just to get a little more control in the tighter sections.
  3. I like both chocolates and trials bikes
  4. The fabricated steel one is better and I would suggest buying off 'inmotion' because there are a couple of different ones and even the early 250 sherpa ones are different as the engine is mounted slightly further rearwards. Cheers Greg
  5. If the chain oiler is standard factory fitted then the swinging arm will not fit your bike. They were fitted to the slimline models from 1972 through to 1974 and don't include a space in the centre for the rear engine mount bracket.
  6. I had a brand new Piuma back in 1984 and the marzocchi rear shocks were quite stiff and had a lot of damping. I never used them after one practice session and replaced them with Gas Girlings, which were the best shocks available at the time and a huge improvement. I would suggest using the lightest oil in them 2.5w and back in the day when I was modifying shocks I just filled the tube the piston runs in and then put the piston in with any excess being pushed out. Cheers Greg
  7. That's not the only thing that isn't working and using your mates wife for your avatar, what can I say
  8. They are a pretty simple motor and will run even when the ignition timing is a fair way off. It can be a little tedious to get it set correctly at 2.7 - 2.9 . I have found the best way to do it is to set the points on the low side of the allowable gap and then rotate the backing plate by loosening the three screws that hold it in place to achieve the correct timing, and it's probably going to take a couple of goes to get it right. Cheers Greg
  9. I reckon 2009 was probably the last time I saw you ride your Hontaco or was that Bulda
  10. With the Elf oil I can find neutral easily and the clutch does disengage, however that's not the case with ATF
  11. The oil does make a difference and the lighter the oil the better. I use ELF htx 740 , another good light oil is GRO Gear Extreme 75W. There are ways to adjust the clutch inside the case, but I would change the oil first and see if that works. Cheers Greg
  12. sherpa325


    Not sure why everyone seems to overthink this issue, C3 bearings are standard and don't cause any problems that I am aware of, so why fix something that isn't broken it's a trials motor after all not a motocrosser or road racer where it's getting flogged to death
  13. Most of my riding buddies and myself included all put a smaller front sprocket on them to slow them, 11T is standard but they make a 10 and a 9. I use the 10 and it makes a big difference, also makes second and third gears much more usable as well
  14. As has been said you definitely need the woodruff key to locate the flywheel correctly, maybe you have installed the backing plate incorrectly , ie out by one or two screws or 120 degrees. It can be mounted in three different positions and from memory the wires exit on the left hand side and the 'coil' is vertical on the left hand side. Please correct me if I am wrong but that's how I remember it. Cheers Greg
  15. Just a thought,check the ignition cover and make sure the operating arm that has the spline on it is installed correctly , it is possible to let the arm, in the case, rotate around so that it doesn't push the clutch rod in. I fixed a friends bike the other day where this had happened, he had taken the horizontal lever arm off in order to put a longer one on, to get a lighter action, and the vertical operating arm in the case had rotated out of position.
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