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Has anyone tried the Gecko Kevlar clutch plates on a TLR200? If so, how are they? I've seen them here: http://www.wemoto.com/bikes/honda/tlr_200_d_e/83-84/picture/clutch_friction_plate_kit_kevlar_-_gecko/

I have just purchased a 1985 TLR200 and have a couple of questions. The clutch is great when its cold, but when it is hot it is impossible to get neutral. The clutch seems to drag and it feels like it needs adjusting. It doesn't slip at all. I understand it was fitted with new clutch plates and an anti-judder kit a few months ago. Are there any tips for front fork setup? I'm around 95kg. The forks stick up past the top yoke around 6mm, and they have air valves fitted to the top. They don't seem to have any air in them.

I have a Matchless G3C with 1 1/8" front forks. I have recently fitted new rear shocks, which has improved the rear end, but I would like to do something with the front end. The front forks seem very soft and have a couple of inches of "sag" in them when the bikes sits without rider. Are springs available that will give me more preload so that the bike sits up more? Are there any other tweaks I can do to improve the standard front fork performance? Thanks in advance for your help and advice.

Thanks. What bore carb do you run John v8?

Looking to either service or replace the MK 1 Concentric fitted to my G3C. It is currently fitted with a MK1 Concentric 626 model. Its a 1960 G3C 350cc engine, wader MAG, fitted with a pancake filter. If I go for a new carb, should I stick with the same model? Any suggestions on jet sizes, if I get another 626?

So who makes that one?

Thanks for your help everyone. I spoke with Andy, and he can help out with both.

I am looking for some alloy engine plates and a central alloy oil tank for a Matchless trials bike. 1960 G3C engine , AMC gearbox and trials frame. Can anyone point me in the right direction?