144hound

Hi Guys, Just picked up a 2016 250 as a upgrade from my previous 06 bike. Been looking for threads on here but can't find too much. Are there any little mods I should be doing or things to watch out for on this year/type bike?

Picture of the bearing/ shaft

Made progress today, sort of,,managed to rebuild clutch, borrowed a hilti impact drill from work and it span the clutch nut off easy. Stator came back from Bradford ignition and recieved parts this morning from splatshop, put a new viton seal in the stator side. I wanted to replace the crank seal clutch side too, which I thought would be the same setup as the ignition side. But there doesn't seem to be a seal there, I can see the main bearing. Which had a small thin bearing cover on it, until I pulled it off thinking it was the seal.? So now I can see the main bearing cage and bearings. There doesn't seem to be enough depth for a seal in case. I can't believe the sealed bearing would be sealing the joint between the clutch oil and bottom end.... is it located on the inner side of the LHS case? Thoughts?? Thanks

Hi guys, thanks for replys. I connected the drill with a socket on it to the flywheel nut and spun it up with the spark plug out, started sparking well above the speed (rpm) I could get by kicking it, so looks like stator to me, got a puller and have sent the stator off to Bradford ignitions. I thought while I'm working on it I'll replace the big end seals aswell. Tonight I've taken the clutch apart as I want to replace the seal that side too and rubbers in the basket, but for the life of me I can't get the nut off, even with the impact gun and heat (albeit only from s electric paint stripper gun) Just for my sanity, it's a normal thread so anti clockwise to spin it off? Given up on it for tonight, might try and borrow a better impact gun from work to attack it with at the wknd.

At end of the last trial the bike started surging near idle when riding along slowly, it also cut out a few times over the evenings riding which was pretty unusual as it's normally bullet proof. At time I thought it was either a oiled up plug failing or abit of grit in the carb as it was very dusty, chucked it in the van and called it a day. Thismorning thought I'd get it cleaned up before going out on it again, kicked it over and fired up on choke, let it idle for a few minutes then switched it off. Decided to change the plug, swapped it out and from this point it wouldn't start, No Spark, tried the old plug still nothing. Cleaned up all the earths and connections- no joy still. Pulled off plug cap to see if cables would arc out but still nothing. So don't think it's that, also put the multi meter on kill switch and it's functioning correctly. Found readings for checking stator, but not sure where I'm ment to take readings from.? I don't have a flywheel puller either I'm not sure if failing once I changed the plug just just coincidence, Any ideas lads? Your helps needed Steve

Need some help again, Noticed my shock on the 2006 is leaking, when taking the exhaust off at the wknd i noticed a puddle of oil around the shock. Ive been trawling threads here and appears that my best bet will be to replace the whole unit. I've found a nice looking ohlins unit on ebay but it' for a 2016-2018 sherco. Anyone know if this will fit? I have asked the sell but hes not got back to me. Also, if anyone can give guidance on what other models fit, to help my second hand search that would be great. Unfortunately I really can't justify a new 400£ unit. Cheers

Thanks for the reply, finally got round to putting new front sprocket on today and it was a better fit, still abit of play on it though. I think it would be tight if the shaft wasnt warn. Ive ditched the rear fender bolts and gone with tiestraps like tony suggested. ? What gearing do you guys run? The bike came with 11 front 42 rear, but the more I ride it I think its too tall for slow cornering (even in first) and the front 11t with 520 chain is almost touching the clutch slave cylinder. Ive read all the threads on here and cant really decide, currently in thinking buy another front but a 10t this time, so I'll be running stock gearing and that should give it some clearance, but read a 44t rear would be good. (Just hoping it wouldnt become too snappy) In a quandry if just go cheap and buy the front get some more riding in or cough up for full set including chain.

Thanks for the replys guys, So had another look last night shaft is slightly warn, sprocket looks fine but ordered another one, as it might be warn too but I can't see it, it's gotta help! Guessing I'll just have to keep an eye on it and replace if/when it needs a rebuild.

Hi, I recently bought a 290 2006, giving it a once over and noticed the front sprocket is pretty loose on the drive shaft.I can wobbled it back and forth, left and right, and there is a small gap between the sprocket and circlips. Sprocket appears to be the right one looking at info on net. Shaft isn' warn or does appear to be Is this normal??

Oh yea forgot to say, Sy250 parts not sure about other bikes

Guys just thought I'd let you know about a parts supplier I've found, he's a fellow enthusiast who's breaking a few bikes, I guess he's got sick of the ridiculous prices for new bits, I've bought tons off him and everything has been really reasonably priced, my scorpa is in great condition now, where as it was a bit botched when I bought it, anyway you can find him on eBay his name is keepingscorpasalive or tony 07575876543, drop him a text

Sounds good to me

Actually ended up doing it last night, it's attached to the case and held in place with a circlip and a small dowl through the shaft, On a slightly different note that water seal was a nightmare to hook out, took me about an hour before it surrendered

Actually ended up doing it last night, it's attached to the case and held in place with a circlip and a small dowl through the shaft, On a slightly different note that water seal was a nightmare to hook out, took me about an hour before it surrendered