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About betabell

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  1. I am glad you got it sorted. Yes this forum is great with lots of knowledgeable people who have help me. Mikuni carb and a few small things aside I love my rev-3. I see from your profile delta that you have a evo how do you think it compares to the older rev-3 in your opinion?
  2. Hello, in a word no. The bikes been sitting in storage. I can't believe how rubbish this carb is. I have brought a second hand carb which has had the mod done to it. I think this has holes blocked off and new vents drilled. I will swap this over and see what happens. If this is no better I will probably just go and buy a brand new carb and try my luck with that. Did you take your carb off because you were having problems or just for a clean and service ? I know some guys on here fit other makes of carbs. I think that is a bit beyond me in terms of setting it up correctly, jetting etc but in an ideal world I would like to fit a dellorto carb.
  3. Thanks very much for every body’s comments. I sorry I have not replayed sooner but I have been busy and have not had the time to play with the bike. I have run the bike with a new sparkplug and super unleaded. This has made no difference as far as I can tell. I shall run the bike on super unleaded if that’s what the supplier recommends. I got the petrol from a Gulf petrol station as this is what is nearest to me but next time I buy fuel I will try a different brand? Has anyone had good results with a particular brand? Zerorev3rev: It’s more of an noise that I was initially worried about but yes you do feel a bit of roughness from the engine. Goudrons: I was a little cautious diving in to the carb as it starts easily, ticks over and seams to deliver the right amount of fuel if you wack the throttle open. By that I mean I have had bikes that when you open the throttle there is a lag and splutter as the carb float bowl does not have the correct amount of fuel in it. Also the carb does not leak. I have had a rev3 250 and I know what an absolute a*** the carbs can be, my 250 liked to wee everywhere. I will probably dive in to the carb and clean it and get a rebuild kit and fit gaskets etc. I have no idea if everything has been put together ok. I have no idea how I check the timing on these. How do I go about that? Mcman56: Yes the noise could be normal for this model of engine. I also wonder if it could be excess fuel along with the fact that the engine could be a bit tight from the rebuild. Markparris: Yes I will upload a video that a good idea. Mcman56: Yes that sounds more like you described when the engine has been wound up and the throttle is chopped off yes the pops are louder as you described.
  4. I have a new to me 2004 Beta Rev3 270cc and I don’t think it runs correctly but I am not sure. The bike is supposed to of had a full rebuild by the last owner including a re-plated cylinder and new piston etc. The bike start first or second kick and seems to have lots of power. What concerns me is that when you blip the throttle about 30% + it revs cleanly but then as it is dying down you get a sort of uneven roughness and a couple of loudish bangs/ coughs. I am not a mechanic and am not familiar with this engine. I don’t know if this noise is just normal overrun of excess fuel or if the carb is not set up correctly and the bike is to lean or reach? It may be low quality fuel or a problem with the timing, or if there is something more seriously wrong with the bike. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. As a side note should I use super unleaded or normal unleaded? The reason I ask as I have been told conflicting things. I know lots of people run super unleaded but I was told by a Beta dealer a few years ago to use normal unleaded? What is considered old fuel and not suitable for use in bikes? I always use to think that anything older than 6 months should not be used but I have read about people saying not to use fuel that is over 30 days old. Sorry to squeeze multiple issues in to one but I think they may be connected. Thanks James
  5. I purchased a Gasgas jtr 250 towards the end of last year and have not used the bike much. I have changed the oil four times and it’s always come out a strange grey colour. I have also been having clutch dragging issues. I have used different bands of oil but this has not made any difference to the dragging. The dragging seems to happen more when the bike has warmed up a bit. If I pull the clutch in and walk the bike back a bit a step or two this makes the bike want to move forward even more. The master cylinder was probably the original one and in trying to remove it to clean one of the bolts snapped off. I purchased a new AJP master cylinder which I fitted. I then removed the slave cylinder, it looks as though there may have been a small leak so I purchased a rebuild kit and fitted. This made no difference. I then removed the clutch plates the basket which looked ok with no significant groves or anything. The metal plates were a little rusty but I am not sure how much use it got by the last owner as it was more a spare back up bike. One of the friction plate had some delamination of the friction material. I have fitted a new surflex clutch pack with new Gasgas springs as well. I have also fitted a new upgraded Gasgas water pump kit with bearings shaft and seal etc. I have just put the new clutch in today and got everything back together and there seems to be no difference. Clearly there have been issues with clutch plate delamination and slave cylinder seals but rectifying these does not seem to be making and difference. I quite like working on the bike but would like to see some progress. I am not sure if this is as good as it gets or if there is something else I should try. Here is a list of the oils I have tried With the old clutch in Wilko semi synthetic 10w40 - very cheap I just wanted to use this as flushing oil and I changed it very quickly MTL Fluid Extra Light 75wt Putoline light gear oil 75w With the new clutch pack in Motul Transoil 10w30 I have seen a Jim Snell video and he says to use 5w30 mineral engine oil but I can’t seem to find any in the UK. I have seen some Pennzoil 5w30 mineral oil on eBay but it says that it cleans up to 40% of engine sludge in the first oil change?!~ - I was not sure if this would be suitable for a motorcycle with a wet clutch. As I say any help or advice would be greatly appreciated. Kind Regards James
  6. Hello Peter, I had already fitted the updated gasgas water pump kit which includes new bearings, shaft and seal. I had considered water ingress so thought in was wise to just replace the water pump components for insurance. I have changed the oil three times since I have brought the bike a couple of months ago and it has always come out a dark grey colour. I have not come across oil of this colour before. I have read that the clutch friction material when it breaks down can colour the oil grey. I am hoping that with the new clutch the oil will be a better colour when I come to change it. Yes the clutch pack I have brought is the Surflex that's all I could find. I would be interested if any one else has come across used grey oil before. I heard that some motocross bikes can suffer from the same problem.
  7. I have heard about using mineral oil from several different places on the web. Jim Snell advises it in a you tube video so I was going by that. My old clutch dragged a bit and was worse when the bike warmed up. I have already rebuilt the slave cylinder as it had a minor leak and installed a new master cylinder. This made no difference. I have removed the old clutch and found two friction plates had started to delaminate and bits of friction material were coming away. I thought this may be because I did not use mineral oil. The bike is obviously no spring chicken so the clutch delamination may be down to age. I have not had the bike long and I don't know its history. I have been fixing and restoring it as I go. Is there an oil that people would recommend?
  8. I am fitting a new clutch and clutch springs to my gasgas jtr 250 1996 and I would like to know if I should pre soak the clutch plates in oil over night before fitting. I know this is recommended for most road bikes and I have had to do this on my Yamaha dt125 lc mk1 but I know how fussy and finicky trials clutches can be ?. I understand that I must use mineral oil in the clutch to reduce swelling, dragging and friction material delamination. It would be great to have some advice from gasgas owners. Regards James
  9. Ok, so that means the spring in the oil seal is exposed to the coolant in the radiator? All the other seals are the other way round with the spring being on the oil side but I know this one is a bit different as it has coolant one side and oil the other.
  10. I went to replace a coolant Hose on my 2007 125cc Beta Rev 3 as the hose had some damage to the outside. It was still functional and did not leak but I did not like the look of it. I have only had the bike a couple of months and it was like this when I got it. On removal of the water pump cover I found that there had been a problem with corrosion of the water pump metal. I know that this is a known problem with these bikes. Someone has bodged the holes with some kind of purple gunk. Both the coolant and oil where still contained and had not cross contaminated as far as I can see. But this has happened in the past before my ownership from the look of it. I have bought a new clutch/water pump case and all new seals. I think I will also buy a new water pump shaft and bearing. Looking at the old case it looks as though someone has put the water pump seal in the wrong way round? I think they may have done this to make the repair easier with the putty? Please can someone look at my picture and tell me if the water pump seal is the correct way around or not? Are there any special tricks or techniques to installation that I would need to know when installing new seals and the water pump bearing? I have changed a couple of oil seals on a small tractor and mower but have not worked with any seals and bearings as small as this. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks James
  11. Hello Billy I will answer all your questions when I have a bit more time, but thanks for all your help. I have a taken a couple of photos prior to seeing you post. My camera is a bit rubbish so I could not get a great photo of the mark in the float bowl that you requested. I will try and borrow a better camera. I have taken a couple of pictures of the side casting that is not straight and also the baffle again that is not straight. I am not sure if they are relevant or not. Maybe the float could rub against the baffle?
  12. This is not a new picture but show a couple of the things I mentioned. I will be taking better photos when I can tale the carb of in a couple of days time,
  13. Hello feetup my cab does not have an overflow standpipe. It is exactly as dan described, it is built into the castings of the carb body and float bowl. Interesting point billyt about the mark in the float bowl. I completely missed that, well spotted. The pin has always been in place when I have taken the carb apart many times, but as you say it there has clearly been some kind of problem in the past. I will take a better photo of this, it will probably be not for a couple of days. So I had some time yesterday so was messing around with the bike, I remember people mentioning about the floats catching on the gasket. So I had a look and noticed two things. Firstly the gasket did sick out one side a tiny amount we are talking 0.5-1mm. So I carefully trimmed this down but it made no difference. Secondly the casting of the carb where the gasket sits was not square. I will again take a picture of it. It may just be how they are all made, I don’t know? To describe where it is - there is a cut out where the gasket has a tab on that locates into the carb. It looks a bit like someone has hit it with a hammer. By that I mean that it is punched in a tiny bit, there are no signs of damage. As I say I will take a picture of it. The other thing I was thinking about that you guys mentioned is the whole vibration thing. Specifically about the carb hitting the exhaust. So I removed the silencer and the middle section and ran the bike but this did not make any difference. The fuel lines on the bike do touch the cylinder wall and a bit of the exhaust. I was wondering if they are a bit old and have gone hard could this be enough to disturbed the carb? I should say that I have ran the bike with one hand on the carb to see if that stabilizes it or if in some way that dampens the carb, but again it made no difference. I have a question about a flat piece of metal in the carb that the needle seat bolts through. What is its function and can I remove it. The reason I ask is that I have noticed that it does not sit squarely in the carb. I could take it out completely or I could try and file it down to make it sit squarely. Again I will take a photo of this. Thanks again for all the advice guys.
  14. Hello lineaway I did not know that you should not use carb cleaner in a bike carb. Having said that the float needle, the needle itself the needle gasket and the float bowl gasket where not sprayed with carb cleaner because they where all new parts. It does make me wounded about the carb drain bolt gasket, that would have had carb cleaner on it so I shall replace it. I will photograph the vents when I get a min.
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