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the outlaw

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About the outlaw

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    SWM, Gori, Fantic(s)

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    Haslemere

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  1. Much has been said on this thread about how to remove / refit a 240 exhaust. Blood has been spilt (the fin serrations trapping my knuckles under the exhaust) and many swear words uttered in my refit battle. chylowen and fxstbi have been a great help in sharing their advice and experiences, and yet further wisdom is now shared in the form of a helpful instructional demo' on how to do it from Lee Harris on his facebook site Cost Optimised Fantic Restorations, posted on 30.05.20. A slight difference in method to chylwen's. Like copulation though, it's nice to have a choice of techniques. Regards, Nigel McGoldrick
  2. Thanks you pschrauber and b40rt. I now feel enlightened, and will do an exploratory op' later and see what needs doing. Really appreciate your advice, and feeling a bit more confident at attacking it now.
  3. Many thanks for that. I've identified where the oil seal is, and got the size from your earlier entries in this threadso I can pre-order it. But I hadn't worked out there's an O ring in there. So, is that effectively sealing between the hollow of the kickstart shaft and the gear spline running through it? It may be I've wrongly decided the leak is coming through the failing oil seal when in fact it's the O ring that has given up?
  4. I've got the same issue... leak from the oil seal on the kickstart / gear change shaft on an SWM 320 TL. Can this be done from the external side by just removing the kickstart and gear lever, and prising off the old, then on with the new seal? Or is it necessary to remove the carb, drain the oil, remove the clutch casing and fit the new bearing? Any advice much appreciated. Nigel
  5. Can I say a big thanks to both of you (Fantic 240motor and Chylowen) for your advice. And hot on getting Fantic240motor's reply I was out in the garage last night working to get it done. Chylowen, I so wish i'd received your advice last night as I could have put it fully to the test. I started off with removing the airbox and pulling the carb' from the barrel and resting it on the engine with the throttle cable still in. Played around with the exhaust trying different angles of attack, but couldn't find a way, so (as Fantic240motor said he'd done) I took the head off which allowed a bit more wiggle room and although it was still a squeeze I had the exhaust in place. The trouble was I then had to put the head back on, and that became the next challenge. It was possible, but I had to tie the exhaust in the highest position to the frame and eventually got the head back. The issue then was how to tighten the head nuts as with one (the rear, right) nut, it is not possible to get a socket or spanner on it, because the exhaust runs so tight above it, so I'm going to improvise by cutting down a box spanner to tighten it, though won't be able to use a torque wrench on it. So having done all that I never got to test (Chylowen's) method which avoids removing the head. Maybe the next person who has the issue with fitting a 240 exhaust and picks up this thread can endorse it with any lessons learnt. I really like Chylowen's comprehensively scripted advice as the way to go, but buggered if I'm going to try it now I've got it all back together again!!! Nigel McGoldrick (theoutlaw)
  6. It's a topic that has come up before, but there was no definitive answer in a previous thread. The problem - completely removing / refitting the exhaust system on a Fantic 240. The dilemma has occurred after reaching the glorious final stages of a resto' project, and after reassembling the bike, with the engine bolted back in place, and the carb' & all the rubbers wrestled back in to place only to find that the immaculately painted exhaust ain't going to be neatly slipping through them tight gaps even with a lot of banging and metal on metal contact. So, has anyone come up with the most effective way to take off and / or fit an exhaust system to an assembled bike, hopefully avoiding all but essential disassembly, and not having to remove the head & cylinder, or maybe the carb, airbox, rear shock etc ? And is the exhaust best fed through with the front end going in from the rear of the bike, or threading the wider rear section fed through from the front above the cylinder head? I fear it's going to get messy... but any advice much appreciated.
  7. Many thanks huski & trapezeartist for your replies... that is enlightening but makes sense. Its reassuring too that after 36 years, its only just started to sound a bit worn on the top end. I'll start with a new ring and small end, and treat it to a new piston only if these measures fail to do the job and quieten it. Thanks again, Nigel McGoldrick
  8. I'm looking at needing a new piston / ring for my Fantic 240. It's a 1984 model, and I'm the second owner of the bike which I've had since 1987, so I don't know its history in its first three years of its life. Looking at the piston fitted I see it had markings on it '3P' and 'D'. And the inner of the piston has Fantic Motor moulded in it, so that might suggest it's not an after-market piston. (Research suggests Mahle produced the pistons for the Fantic factory, so whether they then moulded them with Fantic Motor within I'm uncertain). Has anyone any knowledge of how an original piston for the 240 was marked? I know that after-market pistons are marked in overbore sizes of A to G, but somehow doubt that it would have had three sizes up from standard to a 'D' in its first three years of life, especially as I've not had to take the barrel off or service the top end in the subsequent 32 years. (In fairness it's lived a gentle life). So any ideas appreciated as to whether I might still have the original piston fitted or whether the '3P' and 'D' are indeed marking that show I have a replacement
  9. Any SWM / Rotax engine aficianados out there for some advice? I've recently acquired a very clean SWM 320TL which I suspect has had an easy life. The previous owner told me on collection that he thought it had picked up some sediment in the carb' having been sat for a couple of years, and I'd need to give it a good clean. I briefly ran it, and he was right, it was displaying the classic signs of a gummy carb and blocked pilot jet... it wouldn't run at low revs, needing choke to keep it alive as they dropped, though was okay at larger throttle openings. So, I fitted a new pilot jet, (a size 60, though I know some folk say a 65 is best) and cleaned the carb' including the other jets before reassembling it. I started it (first kick) but it was still running in the same way; that is it runs okay on the choke, but as soon as I drop the choke lever it starts faltering at low revs then failing to respond to the throttle and need the choke half applied to catch the revs before it dies. I rode it around the garden by keep it revving hoping things might clear when the revs were applied and the engine warmed up, but no, it fails to tick over without the idle wound in to keep the revs up. I checked the carb' rubbers on the engine and air box side. They're sound, no pin holes or splits and with a good seal to the carb' and with no signs of air leaks. My thoughts are that this might be the crankshaft oil seal(s) that are gone, but I'm unsure whether the failure to pick up from low revs is consistent with worn oil seals? There's no excess smoke so I doubt it can be sucking in oil. Air maybe though? Anyone got any advice to offer on this or perhaps experienced a similar issue? Any advice would be much appreciated.
  10. Hi scorpa250/ Hope you don't mind the request for advice, but please see the update/photo I've put on following your advice on 'Fantic clutch arm not actuating'. which I think will make sense when you read it.

    Thanks again and best wishes, Nigel

  11. Hi scorpa250/ Letting you know I tried your advice and removed the flywheel cover and sprocket guard but it doesn't reveal (unless I'm missing something - see pic) any slotted screw in the top left side. Do I need to remove the flywheel itself and the next layer of engine casing possibly? This presumably entails the need for a flywheel holder and puller? Any advice - if you've had experience of getting to this screw that holds the clutch arm - appreciated. Nigel (theoutlaw)
  12. Just to say thank you for your replies petert and scorpa250... sounds like an easy job to at least get at and inspect the clutch arm, so will be out on the weekend doing an exploratory op' on the bike. I really appreciate your advice. Best wishes, Nigel
  13. I'm after some advice on a clutch issue with a Fantic 303. The bike has a cable operated (not hydraulic) clutch. The clutch action has been okay with a clear cable run and smooth operation of the clutch arm, but on pulling the clutch in recently, suddenly the lever went light and the clutch doesn't work. I eliminated all cable issues, all is sound, as is the adjustment. When I stripped down the rear subframe to get at the clutch arm that's positioned behind the engine, I can push the arm backwards and forwards with really little resistance - I'm clearly not pushing against the clutch springs or actuating the clutch itself. It's as if the arm isn't engaging within the engine. (I've another Fantic to compare the normal resistance when the arm is pulled, so am happy this is where the problem lies). Has anyone got any ideas what the problem might be or what to check next? It feels as if something that links the arm to the clutch has broken or worked loose. My thoughts were that even if I take the clutch cover off to expose the plates, the clutch arm where it enters the engine cases is still not exposed to check on it. The clutch arm and indeed the mechanics of the clutch is the same as many other/earlier models, such as the 240. Nigel McGoldrick
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