Hi Guys. I've just changed the gear oil on my Fantic TX 250 (125 twin shock model backward kickstart). About 1200ml came out. I thought these only took a litre. I haven't used the bike for nearly 2 years and just wanted to check whether I need 1200ml or possible more or is 1 litre enough? Thanks in advance..
Thatt's an absolute Beaut. i have a 125 version of thi bike and it's lovely to ride. Is this the one which was on ebay recently?? Think the guy gave a helmet and some trousers with it also. If I had had room i would have gone for it. It was listed as all original. It's a stunning wherever you got it from. Good buy :-)
Just wondered if anyone knows if a service manual exists for the Fantic 241 Mono?I want to get my bike fixed but the guy who has offered to do it says he needs a manual so he knows what seting etc it should have.
No i didn't as it has been standing for 10 years. I have been told for a mint or restored one would need to pay £2,500 ??.. so i thought that was quite cheap. I'm glad you have told me that as I thought that was the norm.
What do i mean by artwork.. well my friend will need something to copy from IE and original set of decals or a picture of the logo etc. He has to redraw everything from scratch on the computer, so if someone resprayed their bike and they took off their originals decals and stuck them on to some paper , he can scan them in and then redraw them. Even if the decals are damaged etc as long as most of the artwork is there he can redraw it and then once into his computer,he can print them.
Realistically needs 2 tyres,rear shocks and other miscellaneous bits and bobs which will equate to £300 why not spend the money on a decent fantic
I recently bought a restored Fantic 241. Unfortunately, i have a problem with a leak from the clutch cover. I've managed to get a new old stock one, but waiting for sight glass to come and then trying to find someone to fit it.
Balls to that being an old restoration though, it looks like it needs a good going-through - mine was way tidier and cheaper than that, and I'm looking at a total cost of about £2500 by the time it's back together, majesty-ised, and everythings 5 by 5 from tip to toe.
Aye, at that price it would have to have full registration docs (it would almost certainly have been registered when new). Always wary about bikes being sold by car dealers, perhaps unreasonably so.
Many riders would want to spend money modifying that one for current trials use as it seems bog standard so probably too dear.
Thanks for that.. think I will leave it then.. I only want sommething for riding in field really but looks like it needs money spent on it anyway ...plus the fact it's not been used in 10 years puts me off.
I have a yamaha TY175 fairly local to me, which from pictures looks fairly tidy.. I want a bike i can use and not worry too much about cosmetic condition but don't want a rat.
The bike in question hasn't been used for 10 years. The seller started it up today and said it is running really well.
Now if it hasn't been used for a long time i heard that the engine seals harden and although it may run ok for a few weeks it more than likely going to be a problem in the not too distant future.
It's this Bike here in link below - any advice much appreciated.
I have to agree, i am swayed by colours.. I love my fantic 241 progress 1 colours, plain and simple white and red, but it looks nice although i don't like the later progress 2 the 241 version decals, but the 301 progress 2 i do, just because the decals are different, to me the 301 decals just look cleaner and the 241 progress 2 more busy and not thought out that well..
I'm not really into the modern trials bikes but l love the Montesa Honda 4RT bike colours. I think it looks really nice and would tempt me to buy it because i like the colours so much.
(Please excuse my ignorance, I didn't know the Repsol 4RT was the same as the Honda Montesa.. I've just read through the rest of the thread and realised the bike i put up below was the same bike... I'm new to trials so don't know anything about the modern bikes.)
Can he do fluorescent type colours? Like the reds and blue on the modern Betas, the orange/red on the newer GasGas models etc? Seems to be an issue for a lot of places.
Sorry, I've only just seen this.. He does have some as far as I know.. He will need artwork to copy from and he does it 100% accurate, so if you message me and let me know what you want. or maybe you want in future. I can pass it on to him. Cheers Julian
Well I've had some good news, I may have found a NOS clutch cover. I'm just waiting for photo's, and fell like a big weight has been lifted off my shoulders.. Thanks everyone for all your help.. I'm feeling a lot better about things now. Cheers Julian
Hang on,let's get an idea how bad the leak is first, if you run the engine until it's hot how much comes out ? Does it just weep or does it leak out into the bash plate then dribble onto the garage floor and leave a puddle ?
I have ridden pre 65 for years so oil leaks are not really on the scale of problems !
Gear selection and clutch drag are obviously a problem, but as I suggested earlier get some experianced opinions before you start spending money.
Thank you for your help..It's weeping more than anything, but when left overnight there is a small amount on the floor, say about 10cm circle and a small amount in the bashguard, but it's not a bad leak no. I don't think the bike is ticking over properly either, but that could just be carb adjustment.. I don't think there is anything major wrong with the bike.. I also had ATF fluid in the gearbox, but am now going to use putoline light gear oil 75w.. There was no gasket in there either when i took cover off which i thought was odd.
Could be something simple like the detent for the shift drum, missing, loose or broken spring. I would not even worry about the case. A sight glass is not needed.
Yes i will have to get any case now which doesn't leak. I'm hoping i can get it sorted as I just want to ride while we still have a summer.
I know a guy in Prescott that works on bikes for free. Good mechanic, weird guy, funny accent.
Well at least you have cheered me up a bit with the last sentence lol... i wouldnt expect anything done for free.. I just want to get it sorted so I can use it again .
Sorry about your problem but The site glass is the least of your problems.
It could be a clutch problem causing it to be difficult to get into neutral but your description of jumping from 3rd gear to 5th gear is usually worn gear engagement dogs (on the transmission gears) and/or bent or worn shifting forks which is a major repair investment in parts and labor especially if you have a professional do it. It doesn't sound like its a job you should venture into on your own as it is major disassembly of the motor and replacement of parts that would be very expensive.
It boils down to how much do you like this bike and how deep is your wallet.
Thank you for your detailed reply.. i do love the bike although i feel a little sad as it was sold to me as perfect and have also been told since that I probably paid a little too much... anyway.. I want to sort it out but another 500 pounds would be my max to make it right really..
No, you are going to end up chasing an impossible dream, these old bikes need to be ridden and enjoyed, don't worry about minor items like a small oil leak or a slightly iffy clutch (have you said what you feel is wrong with it ?) I suggest you get out to a trial or local practise day and seek an experianced riders opinion as to how to improve if necessary your bike.
I find it difficult to get it into Neutral sometimes and also when i was riding, sometime gears seem to jump, example 3rd to 5th.. Bearing in mind I am an inexperienced rider.. I haven't ridden a bike for 30 years .. Also when i had clutch in, i put it in 1st gear and bike leaped forward while clutch was in.
No because they may have been changed by the last owner during the renovation.....your gear problems do not sound clutch related ........if you are igoing to keep it to use then the engine needs taking out and giving to a Fantic specialist like Bill Pye at Frankfield Garage If he is still working on them......he could check it all over and get it working how it should ;then you can feel better about it.
I've spoken to bill, he is a lovely guy.. I think that is what I need to do to take it to someone who specialises in these things. It's just heartbreaking when you buy something from someone who tells you it's perfect when it clearly isn't.
I'm wondering if the threads are damaged with the sight level goes in as why wouldn't someone just put a threaded one in.
Bodged....it needs drilling out to remove.......if you do not know how to go about that without ruinining the casing then take it to a machine shop and get them to do it. basically you drill it out so that the last bit of the plastic/epoxy glue near the casing can be picked off leaving the casing exactly as it was before the bodge job.
Thanks for the advice.. Thought it was a bodge job.. I'm worried what else has not been done properly.. I would have to get someone to drill it out as i don't have the facility here.. The Allen bolts holding the case on are crap quality as well. Have bought some Hardened steel ones now. Do you think i should get some new clutch plates while I am at it?
Ok, so I removed the clutch cover... to find there is no gasket in there ... But that isn't the real problem.
The Glass eye definitely has a slow leak, as i filled up the cover with the drained oil and left it on it's side. When i put my finger on the glass eye it was slightly wet so it definitely is leaking..
I have never looked at one of these covers on the inside, but to me the Glass eye looks like it's been glued in and a bodge job at that, please look at pics and see if this is what they look like from factory.. There is one on ebay Canada same model number 403 and the glass eye looks threaded in, as it has a hexagon shape to the front of it as where this is just flat.
If there are threads inside where the glass eye goes, i don't see how i am going to be able to get the glue off without it staying in the threads so i can put a threaded one in. The glue is solid.
While i got the cover off, would it be worth me getting some new clutch plates? The gears were not great and sometimes seem to jump from 3rd to 5th and also neutral isn't always easy to find, would this be a plate problem? I'd rather just get it all done in one go if that could be a possibility of the problem. Also I'm guessing the allen bolts need to be torqued when you put the disc like cover back over the clutch plates?
I'm so depressed right now.. Bought the bike to ride, and now I have this leak and can't find a clutch cover anywhere..
If anyone should have one, can I buy it please?
Here are some pics.. The inside pic of the cover you can see the glue.. I'm sure it wouldn't have been like this from factory?
The 1st picture is the cover I need
2nd pic the glue inside - would it be like this from Factory?
3rd the inside of the gear box, if i remove the cover to get to the plates, do the allen bolts need to be torqued when they are put back in and what setting?
And 4th how the Glass eye looks from the outside close up.
... But that isn't the real problem.
FANTIC TX250 (125) Gear box oil amount
in Fantic
Posted
Hi Guys. I've just changed the gear oil on my Fantic TX 250 (125 twin shock model backward kickstart). About 1200ml came out. I thought these only took a litre. I haven't used the bike for nearly 2 years and just wanted to check whether I need 1200ml or possible more or is 1 litre enough? Thanks in advance..
Julian