Hi all. Playing with an idea at the moment, and hoping for a little advice. I think @gwhy may be the man. If possible I'd like to remove the 3 power dials and replace with a simple bar mounted switch and reduce it to 2 power modes. Sort of high/low torque. Does anybody know if this would be possible. And a follow up, I'd like an handlebar mounted battery monitor/SOC read out. Any ideas?. Thanks guys.
Thanks so much, that is super helpful! There is so little info out there on the Koberg and your direct comparison of the two bikes is exactly what am looking for. They Koberg pricing is about the same as the Oset here, they are both around $4400 usd, but the Oset is sold by a dealer I know and trust, so that counts for a lot.
I am mostly going to use it to chase my grandson around and to demo sections for him, I used to be OK, but really have no interest in competing again. With that in mind, pretty much anything will be fine, I just don't want to get something that sucks! The only reservation I have about the Oset is the throttle. I have read that most people who have come off traditional gassers hates it. Have you done anything specific with your, or do you find it OK?
Thanks again,
Ward
Yes the throttle is a challenge. On the 2017 map, i thought it was marginally better than the current map. Yet most say the opposite. I do overlay the brake with the throttle a little, kills rear brake pads but worth it. Fortunately, the gap between me using a gas bike and moving to electric was a lot of years, ( over 20 years), so i adapted ok. And its only ever been a toy. I am seriously considering upgrading it to 72v later this year. Its currently using a 58v battery, but i have gotten that used to it, i would like a little more.
Hi guys, I have just bought a new oset 24r, the standard Sram brakes on my bike are shockingly poor, I appreciate they are brand new discs and pads and will need to bed in, just wondering how long you guys took to get any power in them to pull a stoppie or to generally lock the brakes on? Or if anyone has the same problem or some tips?
Initially i just upgraded the rotors to 203mm, after that i replaced the entire set up with Hope. The standard brakes are ok for very basic riding, once you want to get some stoppies or give it a bit more, they cant take it.
I am wondering if there are any updates on the Kuberg. As an adult, I am trying to sort out what all my options are for an electric trials bike. I'd love to here more about the Kuberg, I haven't seen any objective reviews, do you know of any?
Thanks,
Ward
This was the problem i had. Just no real information. In the end i just bought one. I couldn't even get an accurate wheel size and the support was lacking to say the least. I figured i didn't want to own a product with so little support and questionable attitudes from nearly everyone i contacted. (nearly everyone). So it went and was replaced by another Oset.
There is certainly a lot to like about them, the build quality is beautiful. no D shaft for the front sprocket, snail cams holding the rear wheel, Domino throttle and brush-less motor are all very nice. However, The rear spring i found to be way too soft for an adult, and i am not heavy. I found the bike too front heavy and felt unbalanced, (possibly due to 2 years aboard an Oset 24). The 16ah battery annoyed me considering they have a 20ah version available. The rear tyre has plenty of grip, at 6 psi on a red hot day, wet or sludgy.. forget it.
In the end, for me -
Kuberg - £4700 with 16ah battery, would need a stiffer rear spring, better rear tyre and a battery upgrade. Roughly £6000. (electric motion money)
Oset - £3300 with 20 ah battery, 650lb rear spring and radial 17" competition tyre. Add a Boost battery at £900. done. Roughly £4200.
I dont mind spending money, or extra money for a better product. In the case of the Kuberg i didn't believe that was what i was getting. I have now owned 2 Oset 24r, and absolutely battered both of them, and not a single issue. I do maintain them properly though.
hi all. I am fairly confident that i was not the only Oset owner wondering how the Kuberg challenger 24" compared. All of the media outlets in the uk give different specs for the bike and no one seemed to know the difference between the challenger 24" and the 20" so even comparing wheel sizes was near impossible. Well i have gotten my hands on one and i want to give people the information that has been missing so they can make an informed choice. I have, in-fact, seen one of these bikes before. and it was tiny, i couldn't understand how they were marketing these bikes at adults at that size. The wheels were tiny 19" bike trials wheels, the bars were narrow, swing arm minute and sat a little smaller than the oset 20 racing. After calling many dealers, all i was told was that the wheels are bigger, but no one could actually say how much bigger, or if there were any other differences. so to correct the false information or lack of, here is a quick run down.
Battery - 16.8 ah 48v nominal, Lipo.
Motor - sealed BLDC with D-shaft drive and heat sink casing.
controller - 8 kw peak.
wheels.
19" MC front, (19 x 2.75 with Kenda tyre)
16" MC rear, (16 x 3.50 with Kenda tyre)
Differences between 20" and 24" challenger are: wider handlebar, longer swing arm, much bigger wheels and 203mm rotor on the rear.
The most obvious differences to the Oset 24r: Lighter, far lighter. the engineering of the rear end is far above the Oset in terms of how the swing arm attaches, the chain guide and tension-er system actually work, fitted with snail cams and a more robust axle assembly. The Domino throttle feels stronger than the Oset one and the horrible free-play at the end isnt there on the Kuberg.
That is the most obvious things and should also address the lack of information. i will add measurements at some point this weekend and i intend to take the Oset and Kuberg out this weekend for an head to head.
Apologies for thread hijack. Is there an easy way to remove the motor? The top and rear Allen bolts I can get to, but short of removing the swing arm, I just can't get to the front lower bolt as the frame and swing arm are in the way.
I'm don't want to remove the swing arm as drifting the axle out is likely to damage the bearings. We'll not until I have replacement bearings.
Is it the 24r your refering too?. There is a slight difference in swingarm assembly. I have always removed the entire rear end when removing the motor to ensure I get it lined up correctly on the 6 bolts after. The swingarm axle will fly out with a tap. Don't worry about the swingarm bearings. The way I do it is non drive side 1st. Undo all 3 main Motor bolts, the long (8mm?) Bolt going through the swingarm, and left side swingarm cap and bolt, tap the swingarm axle back to release the left side part of the swingarm and then pull the right side off with motor still attached.
Hi guru's. Last weekend the motor started making a kind of grumble/snatchy noise once the motor had gotten hot. Switch it off, Have a cuppa, let it cool and all fine again. The bike is just over 18 months old and still running same bearings so I figured it was time to swap them. I have removed the Motor, pulled the sprocket off. Removed the drive side casing and then with lots of swearing and clever use of welding gloves and an inner tube, removed the housing. My problem is that now can't seem to remove the non drive side casing to access the other bearing. How do I remove this side?. I can see the brushes in place and the (stator plate?).. I can see down to the bearing, but tugging and twisting hasn't worked and I've purposely hidden my hammer. Am I missing something?. Any advice or information would be greatly appreciated. And also any recommendations on bearings?.
Dont bother. just use the pots. been running a 24r as a trials bike, trail bike, enduro bike and everything in between for 2 years with no issues at all. make sure the chain line is spot on and it will be happy.
Hi all. I have a 2017 Oset 24R and i would like to get more power from it. Any suggestions? I am not averse to ripping the entire motor and controller set up out and starting again. I would like more range, but definitely more torque. Thanks guys.
I've recently bought a 2nd hand 20 racing, I believe 2016, when you open the throttle there is a very slight hesitation, its all the way through the range and adjusting the response doesn't seem to get rid of it, is this normal? my son doesn't seem notice it but it is there and must be hindering his riding.
Also how to people wash their bikes? I've been told a jet wash isn't the thing to do.
thanks for any help
Wayne
As for the washing bit, don't worry about it, I soak it in pro-green Mx cleaner, leave it 5 minutes and rinse off with a high pressure hose avoiding the motor controller. You won't hurt the motor.
Financially, lithium batteries are by far the biggest single component cost in the bikes. Ian describes it as: “It’s like buying a bike with years’ worth of free fuel.”
Does this mean you need a new battery after a year if you want it to perform the same in December as it did in January? If the battery is good for 1000 charges it would be like buying a bike with 2.7 years of free fuel if you charge it every day. But of course electricity is not free. I suspect Oliver Smith gets a new battery at least every year for top performance.
I've been running the Oset 24r for 2 years now with a mix of standard battery and a custom built one, I swap between the 2 and both my batteries still charge to the exact voltage they did when new and provide the same power etc as when new. I will say though, the standard Oset battery is pretty poor. It last ok, but after 10-15 min of use, there is a noticeable drop in available power and I will see it drop to 2 lights on the handlebar on full throttle. My boost battery runs for 4+ hours with no noticeable difference in power. It actually did a full 3 lap trial and then climbed a 1600 foot hill. (At a sensible gradient).
No, the Oset lithuim battery is for the 24r. Oset do not currently offer a lithium ion or Lipo battery for the 20r. The battery you need from Boost bikes is priced £425 on the Boostbikes.co.uk website and is the 48v one. If you buy one from BGA reworking, Just tell them its for the Oset 20, I sent Jimmy at BGA all the bikes specs and dimensions 2 years ago when they built my batteries for the Oset 20r.
Thanks for the reply. It's currently using 10 front and 102 rear. The only alternative I can get for the front is actually smaller at 9t. I can get anything up to 99 for the rear.
Hi all. Thinking of fitting a smaller sprocket to the rear for trail riding. Hoping it will put less stress on the motor while at a semi high constant speed. Any suggestions on which size sprocket to go for?.
After a little more "thinking", i have realised how daft the question was.a 1400w motor isnt gonna run at any less. Im just going to upgrade the battery. The Oset "48v" is actually 46v. Im sure the last one i had built was 54 fully charged. Anyhow, thanks for your input guys.
Thank you for your response. Yes i realise i already have that capacity. I was wanting something more like a switch that can be set to a limit in place of turning the dials back and hoping im in the lower range. I think i am probably better off just fitting some sort of gauge or watt meter and ride with the dials wound back and monitor it that way. A hidden switch would be nice, but changing motor controllers just for convenience of set power maps is probably a daft way to go. Thanks again.
Hi all. Firstly let me apologise if this is a dumb question. If at all possible, i would like a way of limiting the power of the 24r for trail riding. sort of a low power mode, Somewhere in the range of 250w - 500w to make it sort of legal to ride trails. I know its not going to be strictly legal in a de-tuned mode, But the idea behind it is, I would like to ride it in a "trials" way at weekend, but then have the ability to switch to a low power mode to limit the draw on the battery and improve range. I would have thought a 48v 23ah battery could potentially power and ebike for quite a fair few miles. The main question i am asking is this: can i do the above using the current hardware and install some sort of "limiter", or do i need to be looking at swapping the motor controller for a more programmable one and then just have a few different throttle maps. If the latter, any suggestions on the route to go? I remember reading that some guys were installing a Kelly controller?, However, this was on the 20r. Once again, thank you all for your time and knowledge.
It was actually your reply in the "24R" post that made me seek a little more info. I have to agree with you that more bite is needed. I just couldn't see how bigger rotors would achieve this. I know they dissipate heat better, but i wouldnt see this as an issue with the stop/start style of riding. I have read somewhere that the longer arm between the rotor centre and outer braking surface is longer, giving a stronger bite. But this seemed slightly made up to me. Anyway, thanks for the info, i opted to fit a set of Hope brakes instead, 180 rear with jitsie pads, 203 up front to help with stoppies.
good evening all. I have a query regarding brake rotors on the 24. The bike came with 180mm rotors F+R, But i have noticed one or two guys swapping them out for 203mm. Is there any real benefit to this? I understand why its done on mountain bikes, and i also understand the basic theory behind putting bigger rotors on cars and motor bikes. But is there any real benefit to be gained from installing them to the oset? All of the "proper" trials bikes i see, (sherco, beta, etc) all have tiny rear discs. In short, will i get a better bite from a 203 rear rotor over a 180?
Evening all. Has anyone had experience of servicing the 48v Oset motor? The bike is a 2016 20.0 racing. I have noticed the bearings getting noisy and from reading comments by a couple of the electric bike gurus on this forum it sounds as if there may be dirt/damage inside. While slowly rotating the back wheel with chain still attached there is quite noticeable points of increased resistance. I have seen that i can purchase bearings and brush set from Oset for quite a sensible price and currently deciding weather to strip the motor and give it a service or send it away to someone more familiar with the inner workings. Thank you all for your time.
Hi guys, quick query. as the title says really. Have any of you guys insured your Oset, and if so, who with? (UK only). The bikes are currently covered on my contents policy but with the insurance company not actually knowing what an Oset is or how to categorise it, they're not filling me with confidence should i need to claim. Thanks in advance.
If i had seen that available here in the UK it would definitely have been a consideration, Though, since i have owned the bike the Oset online parts catalogue has been being updated. God knows what its being updated with at 2 months and counting.
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Oset 24 modification
in OSET Electric Trials Bikes
Posted · Edited by kingkopity
Hi all. Playing with an idea at the moment, and hoping for a little advice. I think @gwhy may be the man. If possible I'd like to remove the 3 power dials and replace with a simple bar mounted switch and reduce it to 2 power modes. Sort of high/low torque. Does anybody know if this would be possible. And a follow up, I'd like an handlebar mounted battery monitor/SOC read out. Any ideas?. Thanks guys.