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whitevancam

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  1. Update following the trial yesterday, clutch and bike performed perfectly. Rider has lots of room for improvement!
  2. Will do. Doing a trial up at Scarborough Trials Park on Sunday so I will let you know how it goes.
  3. Fixed! I fitted the new master cylinder this afternoon. I am now getting just over 1mm of pressure plate movement and it stays there, left the lever cable tied back again and nothing moved, when I returned 20 minutes later, the pressure plate was in the exact same position. Had a little ride on it just on the street out side the house and feels good. As I did the 'fix' and changed the oil to nano trans during the fault finding it should hopefully be a huge improvement. Thanks again for everyones help.
  4. Thanks Dan. That is what I have assumed, if fluid is passing the Slave Cylinder seals it will go into the gearbox, fluid in the system would then be replenished from the reservoir at the Master Cylinder as it is self adjusting and then the level in the reservoir would drop. If the seals in the Master Cylinder were passing then the fluid would just end up back in the Master Cylinder and the level would stay the same. As the fluid level in the Master Cylinder reservoir hasn't changed during any of this investigation I'm hoping it is the Master Cylinder seal that is passing as that is what I have now ordered!
  5. Thanks guys, I think I have a diagnosis. I got back this evening to find the cable tie still in place but the clutch fully engaged, i.e. the measurement was the same as with the lever released. Snipped the cable tie and pulled the lever a few times and the pressure plate movement was the same as before, about 0.6mm. I then pulled and held the clutch lever and 'rattled' the top friction plate up and down with my finger, after about 20-30 seconds I couldn't rattle it anymore, the gap had gone. So I think I have knackered master cylinder or master cylinder seal. I think I can eliminate the slave cylinder as the fluid level in the master cylinder has remained constant throughout all this. If the slave seal was knackered I am assuming that the level would drop as the fluid pushes past the seal and into the gearbox and the level would drop. I'm going to try to order a new master cylinder or repair kit tomorrow and will report back! Thanks again for all your help so far.
  6. No time to do a proper investigation yet but I have just measured the travel of the pressure plate. It is moving about 0.6mm from fully engaged to fully disengaged, if I divide that by 12 friction surfaces ( 6 plates that is 0.05mm per friction surface of movement ) if I had been asked to guess I would have said that the clutch moves a couple of mm but having never measured it before I don't really know what to expect. I've got to do some parenting this afternoon so have left the clutch lever cable tied back to the bars to see if it creeps back down whilst I am out, this might give me an indication of whether the master cylinder is passing. We'll see this evening! Ps. Can you buy just individual 'thin' plates or would I have to buy a complete set??
  7. Thanks for the suggestions so far. I'm fairly sure the momevment is correct but haven't physically measured it, I've been moving the clutch lever with the clutch cover off and looks good. I don't mind buying new clutch plates, they are a wearable item after all, but in my mind, as the plates wear you get clutch slip, not clutch drag. I don't want to chuck £70 ( or whatever they are ) at some new plates if that isn't going to solve the problem. I'm out on the Enduro bike in the morning but in the afternoon I might have some free time. I think my next steps are to physically measure the clutch movement with a vernier or dial gauge, I've also found that Beta USA clutch set up article so I'm going to check which way my 'top hats' are facing, then ride as much as can up and down the street and doing figure of eights in the drive and get some proper heat into everything and see what happens. Then I'm going to have the clutch cover off again while everything is hot and re-measure everything.
  8. Hmmmm. I'm tempted to try new clutch plates but would rather buy new clutch plates because I know it needs new clutch plates rather than just guessing and spending money. The clutch plates look like any others I've seen before and were flat and in good condition. When it first started doing it I had been riding all day, my test today I rode for perhaps 10 minutes and it was ok, then dragging, ok, then dragging. But the dragging is so bad as described before that pulling the front brake will push the front wheel or stall the engine!
  9. I'm struggling with the clutch on my 2014 300 Factory 2T. I have ridden about half a dozen times properly and all seemed fine until the last ride where at the end of the day it started dragging so badly I couldn't disengage the clutch at all ( last Sunday ). I tried it again on Monday night and it was still dragging. I dropped the oil ( 300V) and removed the clutch, mine is the version with the two thicker outers, I've carried out the clutch fix although there wasn't a lot of glue and refilled with Nanotrans, I also bled the clutch just to be sure. All the friction plates and steels were flat and in good condition. Have tried the bike again this afternoon and I thought it was ok at first then it went just as bad, so again with the lever against the bars it is still driving forward and pulling the front brake to stop the bike stalls the engine. I'm not sure where to go from here. I am thinking I may have a dodgy master cylinder seal and it is not fully moving the slave cylinder fully but with the clutch cover off it seems to operate the clutch the distance I would expect it to. My second ever trial is in two weeks so need to resolve it before then! Any ideas anyone??
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