Well another question,I have a situation where I would like to up my gearing a little for trail riding would a 11T countershaft help in this respect,not in my budget to change the rear and besides its as new genuine but a 38T not the 40T the manual states.
Any idea's would be well received and excuse me for asking a dumb question,cheers
No leaks since reseal ,currently looking @ fitting longer range tank (7L) and have suitable seat for it,hoping its all period currect but expect some grief for what I have done but it suits my needs and works for ME.
Just finished sorting the gear change mechanism. Very notchy.
The pawls were all good, but the plate that they slide across had a groove worn in it and a burr.
Stoned off the burr, and ground a small rad on the leading edge of the lower face of each pawl, so the pawl now slides across without the leading edge catching.
Re-assembled and now much smoother.
Next. Fit engine to frame.
Wow nice job on the side cover,however mine had been welded and not really that top notch,your work is great cheers.
Checked the g/box vent and appeared to be blocked using a piece of wire,JB welded the blanking plug and filled with new oil no leaks ,happy camper ,had plans for a ride but heavy rain tomorrow our first pre winter storm hits,there will be another day,cheers.
Octane booster is a bandage for a broken leg IMO,section swept supplied a good technical response to this question,carbon build up is a very likely cause,I would suggest checking the fuel system for a lean condition,checking the plug heat range and however you can establish ignition system/timing is correct.
That's a good point I suspect the vent hole is blocked as the oil drains very slowly without the filler cap undone,would that tell me the vent hole is blocked?,after changing the oil after buying the bike I drained it again because I thought maybe I had overfilled it ....that wasn't the case.
I haven't tried to see if the blanking plug is loose and frankly don't want to,reason I mentioned JB Weld is that is great in this application.
Obviously if this won't fix the problem I will go further,for the mean while I will check the cover vent hole isn't blocked ,thanks.
Parts arrived from the UK to reseal output shaft seal,all fitted back together,you would think that was the end it however I have another leak,there is a blanking plug you can see above the kitchen towel.
I can only think to drain the oil and clean the area before applying some JB Weld,anyone have suggestions,thanks.
There is no separate breather on the clutch case. I think this vents through the gearbox.
Good point on using clear tubing. (The gearbox tube and threaded coupling is actually blocked solid with gunge!!).
Another question.
The final drive sprocket is a push fit onto the g/box output shaft, and this is then followed by a 'sprung loaded cup' over an O ring on the shaft itself. In order to keep these on the shaft there must be a circlip or something that then fits into a groove on the outer end of the shaft. I can't make out what this is actually supposed to be or look like from the illustration in the parts book. p/n 6763.165.
Its more of a "C'' clip and just slips into the groove in the output shaft,the spring loaded retainer holds from passing over the shaft when in place.
Yes rechroming is an option but these forks shown are heavily pitted,the amount of work to prep these areas will add greatly to what is and expensive undertaking to start with.
Other 35mm forks may well fit as many earlier Japanese bikes ran 35mm or you have the option of going for secondhand originals as you have been offered on here.
I haven't dealt with these Honda forks before but I do know with my Montesa the oil was the wrong grade and one stauntion actually had gearbox oil in it....believe it or not.
I also found this oil to be very dirty ,this required a lot of cleaning to get all the muck out,you will most likely find your springs have sagged over time,you can buy or get made preload spacers but in reality replacement of the springs is a better longterm solution,when you replace the fork seals go for the new generation double lip type (SKF) they last a lot longer.
If your forks move in a jerky motion I would suggest you get them checked for straightness before attempting a rebuild,good luck .
Hi, I tried the link [ https://www.carlsalter.com/download.asp?p=548 ] for the manual but is says 'type in the code', and no code is shown. Does this mean the manual has been removed due to copyright issues?
Dead link perhaps,don't really think Montesa would worry hell there's bugger all of the world can speak Spanish,I have a download for my Monty but pick up what I need that has me sorted,cheers
Mk1 and Mk2 AMAL concentric are notorious for wearing the slide needle and needle jet, causing the motor to run rich. The standard jetting works fine when nothing is worn. Yes there are lots of alternate carbies that will fit and work well and not suffer rapid wear. Keihin, Mikuni, Dellorto and OKO are all popular and are reliable and long-lasting. I don't want to recommend a particular brand, just that you should buy one that has been pre-jetted for your bike by someone who knows what they are doing.
Couldn't agree more,replaced the slide which was worn worse than the body,needle and guide and full gasket kit,I'am really happy with it now,saves the hassle of guessing jetting with a 2S....could be scary and expensive ,I understand the jetting for other Japanese carbs is quite different than the Amal.
Besides the jetting theres the issue of buying a Mikuni,Keihin and others is you don't know what you are getting is it made in China,Taiwan or Japan ????,I searthed around in Aliexpress and Ebay and asked questions,carbs advertised as genuine in some cases were knock offs,a guy on YouTube found this when he ordered, genuine carb ran better as he tested on the same bike.
I think if you are changing its better to buy the setup kit,correct jetting (or close) right manifold to carb adaptor etc...worth the extra $$$$.
On the subject of restoring old bikes, I had an interesting experience a couple of weeks ago.
I was doing up an 80's trials bike, and decided to lower the footrests and sharpen the steering head.
Initially, I was going to do it myself, but then thought I'd get it done by one of the various guys who have websites advertising pre-65 & twinshock type stuff.
I emailed one of them for a quote .......£800 ......yes, eight hundred pounds !! An expensive bit of welding don't you think !
This has been a great topic IMO,plan to drop my pegs down as I find with my long legs I feel I'am riding my bike like a jockey when sitting down ,honestly don't like the position on my Monty 349 for gearshift and brake....not sure about changing steering head angle as I don't know for sure it has been done already,lots of Bombay welding been done there not sure its a repair or a modification ,regardless of this I have cracks in that area that need attention.
Just out of interest is the angle changed fwd of rear ?,presume fwd...I don't know reason for asking.
tonyp the quote you received was really on the heavy side,as an engineer I don't see that kind of money involved,shop around perhaps.
I make sure I do at least one thing in the workshop, however small every single day. That way the build tends to move along, even if its slow.
Currently building a Bultaco T 250 from the late 70's, and even in the very cold conditions I have managed to get the old wheels bearings out, clean up the brakes, wheels & hubs, and get new bearings and seals fitted. The front wheel is now in
I too worry about fire in the shop, I have built a small spray booth in the corner and I use thinners for washing stuff down, degreasing etc. So I bought a 3kw electric space heater, which doesn't "Glow" red. I still switch it off when handling anything flammable or painting.
The old bike prices appear to be a lot higher than they really are, particularly if you're using ebay as a guide. Sure the prices will steadily rise as they become rarer. But ebay prices are purposely kept high by the dealers. There was a Montesa Cota from the early 1970's advertised on there for nearly two years at at least double its real value by a dealer. Other dealers then follow suit and the general buying public consider this inflated value the real value. But if you look at the public auction only ads, they don't get bid up to anywhere near the fixed prices.
I paid, fairly recently, £650 for this Bultaco, its 100% complete and has hardly seen any use in its life and I bid along with others up to this price. Dealers and some people who use ebay as their price guide would advertise it for far more, but just because they are advertised at this doesn't mean they are selling them, I keep a close eye on this and many of these bikes are on ebay for months and months and don't sell from that platform.
I don't like selling them on either, I have 7 bikes in the shop now and another project in waiting, but frankly you have to part with them, usually for the money to buy the next machine or needing the space. I'm intending to ride my two twinshock bikes this year, so these, for the moment, are keepers
Well said,prices don't really get up there unless the bikes are fully restored or mint low hrs ,older trials bikes in my country are just old trials bikes,most in my country consider the older European trials bikes as needing lots of work and the parts are near impossible to find.
However due to the growing twinshock craze vmx and enduro bikes are very sort after if pre -1979,otherwise value is some what low,my mate restores Yamaha 500 XT and TT's he usually buys rough bikes for around 3000NZD spends that again or more and sells them easily for 15000NZD,he has amassed a large spares collection for these bikes and he admits he really enjoys building them but no longer rides one for himself.
He won many open class titles on TT's that he race built,he talked me into getting another bike and I have really enjoyed fixing my Monty up and riding it still gives me a buzz like the "olden days" ,if I sell it I wouldn't expect to make much on it but that's not what its all about for me.
On a 2S motor like my Montesa there was a 14mm extra hole in the head ,the lever operated decomp fitted to mine was ok but I'am not sure it was really that much use....some said they don't bother with them @ all,what I did find on Ebay was a chainsaw auto decompressor with an adaptor to fit the 14mm hole,I purchased a Husky 10mm one but have yet to machine an adaptor.
These work by lifting a button up on them which exposes a small bleed hole,when the engine fires it automatically closes ,still don't know if the bike would start with one of these ?,my old decomp has to 5mm (approx) bleed holes which I presume are too large causing insufficient compression for the engine to fire.
After doing some rather serious damage to my leg after a "kickback" I have a more clever starting procedure which works everytime......self preservation really.
Well managed to check fuel usage after last ride which was more throttle and higher RPM then any other test runs,@ that stage I had used 650mls of premix which is a huge reduction from pre carb work.
Pulled chain ,retainer and countershaft sprocket ,oh dear the seal is totally gone and not what I thought would be easy to change,very small and looks hard to remove.....bugger.
Anyone know the size of this seal as it looks a real odd one?,cheers .
EDIT and update,fired an email to Inmotion and Pete replied swiftly saying they have the seal and the 'o' ring which I presume go's on the end of the shaft sleeve against the bearing ?...mine didn't have one and after looking @ the way it sets up explains how the oil can travel under the inside of the sleeve and leak @ the sprocket,bloody past owners eh .
Yesterday was a magic day ,rather hot,the bike screamed 'ride me" so I boxed up a couple of things I had apart and she started up first kick on the choke,went to some of my favorite area's I used to run my VW offroader (now sold) and found the bike a blast to ride,went all over the place forgetting I had only put 1 litre of fuel in it but that wasn't an issue as I didn't need to use reserve.
My thinking is the carb is fairly well "dialed in" ,changing to the carb slide to near the correct type appears to have cured my consumption issue,it settles to a nice low speed tick over and as mentioned previously the oil smoke is much reduced.
I also experimented with a different fuel mix of around 32:1 ,some had mentioned this was the way to go,no question the bike runs better and shows no obvious issues with this mix,I would assume 2S oil has come ahead somewhat since 1979 .
I have changed the handlebars to a "high rise" type and find the riding postion is greatly improved for the type of riding I do.
I also found I have automatic chain oiling on my Monty ???.....turns out my oil leak is in fact the counter shaft sprocket seal,oh well atleast I know where its coming from.
It is rather hard to get to even with the swingarm out ,thinking its leaking for that reason....too hard to get to ?
The only solution I can see is to put a thin wall socket in there with a piece of flat or bar welded to it as there is no way a ratchet will fit in,the rear engine mounts in the way also .
I'am not removing the engine until I do frame repairs and repaint so hope the above method works,thanks for the reply feetupfun.
Starting to put bike together again,it was pointed out to me sometime back the shocks I purchased were too long,this is true and not only caused the rear height to be wrong but caused the shock to be "firmish",machined up some 12mm bolts up and mounted them on the swingarm which resulted in the bike setting correctly and the shocks now feel right.
While removing the swingarm I noticed an oil leak which turned out to be @ a recessed plug in the engine case ...can anyone tell me what its function is and how it sealed,thanks
I know of one locally ,very nice condition...it appears many folk know the issue with parts however,limited production and a different direction for Honda as it was 2S,wonder how many were made?.
Interesting...I have very little preload on the spring but when I move the lever around towards the starting position the spring loads up,lever returns back to rest fine.
I don't know if its correct by the book but it functions as it should ,was that way when I got the bike.
Looks like you're getting more of that wild weather potto
Yes another one on the way,so much damage done from the others and the clean up is still going on appears it will be months before all that is finished.
This one is said to be going down the east coast of the north island,I live @ the top of the south island so hopefully we will be ok.
Not sure I'am liking what you guys are "exporting" to us lately ? .
The main thing is to check the bid end and connecting rod little end for wear, play and visible signs of other damage. Welding up the crankshaft should not pose too many problems provided that there are no inclusions and you allow air cooling naturally. If you are going with the stick method then select rod material type with care flash grinding will indicate type of similar metal by spark colour. You have little choice with mig. Penetration could be a strength problem. Maybe you could find a good condition crank half on eBay etc. Not sure from pic but if it’s the drive side you are repairing there will be a fair amount of torque loading on the shaft. If it’s the generator side then there will be a lot of inertia going through that side of the shaft. Add up the cost of new big end bearing and conrod kit and you maybe better getting another engine and using both to make one good engine with your original cases. Hope there’s some useful info for you.?
Not a real easy repair,welding @ that point will pull and the crank won't be straight ,it may be rather difficult to correct this to "zero'' runout,,if you factor in welding ,straightening (if possible),machining after welding,then cutting another keyway you are paying a specialist a lot of labour.
I would think your flywheel is damaged also,IMO I would be searching for the parts secondhand....good luck.
,honestly don't like the position on my Monty 349 for gearshift and brake....not sure about changing steering head angle as I don't know for sure it has been done already,lots of Bombay welding been done there not sure its a repair or a modification ,regardless of this I have cracks in that area that need attention.
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New purchase ,old bike and rider
in Montesa
Posted
Well another question,I have a situation where I would like to up my gearing a little for trail riding would a 11T countershaft help in this respect,not in my budget to change the rear and besides its as new genuine but a 38T not the 40T the manual states.
Any idea's would be well received and excuse me for asking a dumb question,cheers