There are some good spray products about like X20 that work for long enough to do a trial. If you want to waterproof things where it is possible to do so a shrink wrap is the best way to go.
Cheers Chris, I haven't had a problem getting through a trial it's more to do with ensuring moisture doesnt get through to the pins of the plugs on things like the cdi and sit there coroding the pins
(Or don't check it, hard trying to help people sometimes.)
Sorry dude, wasn't trying to be rude. I didn't answer as i dont know how timing could change other than woodruff key going. The bike runs perfectly when cold.
Bike running very hot. Magneto and clutch casings are also very hot to the touch. Checked coolant, all ok. Fan is cutting in and out (though more often than it used to. Plug colour is fine. New plug in. Bike runs fine from cold, after about 10 minutes casings are very hot to the touch as is the exhaust silencer. Carb has been apart and is clean, standard settings other than needle lifted 1 notch. Bike also seems to not want to rev as it used to. Anybody got any ideas? ??
Looking for some advice please.
I've a 2018 250rr and I notice the odd knock when I give the bike a little rev (off the bottom, first 1/8 of the throttle). I was out riding it today with my son on his oset ( so just gently plodding hardly any throttle and at one point it startedknocking quite badly. I've read previous posts about lifting the needle up one. As far as I'm aware the needle is in the standard position. The bike never used to do this but I'm starting to notice it more and more.
Many thanks. ?
If you've not laid it over and you are getting fuel in the crank/ exhaust then it has to be the the floats not stopping the fuel flow when the carb bowl is full. You say you have had the carb apart (are you sure you reassembled it correctly)? Its floats sticking or wrong height, float needle valve not seating or incorrectly assembled. For me it all points to something wrong in the carb bowl area. You also say you also changed crank seal. What was the reason for that? Go over your work to confirm its correct before you take anything else apart or your only going to complicate matters
My son and I both have Sidi boots.. probably about 2yrs old now... no issues other then I found that mine leaked water through the front rivet just behind the toe... I managed to get a dolly into the boot and tap it a bit tighter... after that they have been fine. Buckles and straps haven’t broken. These were ‘flat’ soles rather than the curved ones...
Sisi's have also been mentioned for me to consider
Leaving fuel on shouldn't cause any problems if the carb is set up/ working correctly. You say you've had the carb apart, I would strip it again to confirm the float height is correct and its shutting off the fuel when the bowl is full. You dont say whether you've had the bike on its side while working on it but if you have with the fuel on it's a sure fire way to fill the crank with fuel (I did it on mine once servicing the dog bones when i forgot to shut the fuel off). Splatshop has some good information on setting up the carb (the keinhin is a temperamental beast).
The sherco's with the rear tank/pump are known for stalling when going downhill. Turn the idle up a little and give it a rev now and again when you hear it starting to bog.
The non starting sounds like excess fuel/ flooded. Providing you have rebuilt the carb correctly, turn the fuel off, plug out and give it a good few kicks over, put clean plug back in and kick it with throttle fully open it might take a few kicks and will sound bogged up until it burns the excess fuel out then it will return to normal and you can put fuel back on.
My 2014 sherco would flood getting it off the back of a pick up truck all the time. Wide open throttle and kick would be the only way I could get it to start after that.
Dont fill the radiator to the top, leave 10mm air gap to allow for water expansion. Radiator too full will cause excess pressure and push water past the seal.
As above, firstly bypass the thermostatic switch, this can be done just by swapping connectors by the head stock. If fan runs constantly with engine running then the thermostatic switch has gone. If still no fan then try powering the fan directly off a 12v battery to confirm if ik or not
Waterproofing electrical plugs/ connections.
in TRS
Posted
Cheers Chris, I haven't had a problem getting through a trial it's more to do with ensuring moisture doesnt get through to the pins of the plugs on things like the cdi and sit there coroding the pins