Spanky

Cheers Chris, I haven't had a problem getting through a trial it's more to do with ensuring moisture doesnt get through to the pins of the plugs on things like the cdi and sit there coroding the pins

Following on from my sick trs thread, whilst investigating the problem I found a couple of connectors where I could see moisture had gotten in. What is the best method for keeping water out of these connectors? I've heard of people using vaseline and dielectric grease.

Update: Fault confirmed as failing cdi unit. Bike now running sweet again. ? Thanks to all that offered advice/tried to help.

So I've heard. Will do. Thanks.

Sorry dude, wasn't trying to be rude. I didn't answer as i dont know how timing could change other than woodruff key going. The bike runs perfectly when cold.

?, will do, but I dont think the casings would get that hot. think it would boil over first.

Bike running very hot. Magneto and clutch casings are also very hot to the touch. Checked coolant, all ok. Fan is cutting in and out (though more often than it used to. Plug colour is fine. New plug in. Bike runs fine from cold, after about 10 minutes casings are very hot to the touch as is the exhaust silencer. Carb has been apart and is clean, standard settings other than needle lifted 1 notch. Bike also seems to not want to rev as it used to. Anybody got any ideas? ??

Well I hope that's not the problem ?

No, same as always.

No, its definitely ignition knock.

Looking for some advice please. I've a 2018 250rr and I notice the odd knock when I give the bike a little rev (off the bottom, first 1/8 of the throttle). I was out riding it today with my son on his oset ( so just gently plodding hardly any throttle and at one point it startedknocking quite badly. I've read previous posts about lifting the needle up one. As far as I'm aware the needle is in the standard position. The bike never used to do this but I'm starting to notice it more and more. Many thanks. ?

Wont go wrong with plutoline gp10.

If you've not laid it over and you are getting fuel in the crank/ exhaust then it has to be the the floats not stopping the fuel flow when the carb bowl is full. You say you have had the carb apart (are you sure you reassembled it correctly)? Its floats sticking or wrong height, float needle valve not seating or incorrectly assembled. For me it all points to something wrong in the carb bowl area. You also say you also changed crank seal. What was the reason for that? Go over your work to confirm its correct before you take anything else apart or your only going to complicate matters

That's good to know, thanks ?. Already have sealskins ?

Thats kinda what I was told yesterday. Only that alpinestars offer much better protection than the gearnes.