The 2 high tension wires that go to the starter motor? Those wires would need to remain that thick or the batteries and relays need to be moved very, very close to the starter motor.
Yeah, you are right. I did some research on that. But I have been frustrated with how the battery cables come out and in through the frame. Concerned I would have the same problem KRJ had. They fold and bind up. But, the 2023 (22?) have a revised cable routing. I'm glad I am not the only one who thinks the current way sucks. They route them down right under either the lower clamps under the steering stem. They of course run a new clamp that is beveled to not dig into the cables and then goes through a guide that holds them in place. This pretty much eliminates and binding. I have the guide coming and hopefully I can make it work on my 21. I also have the charging cable coming as well. Terribly expensive they are. both totally an insane $30.01 USD.
Well I'm glad I found this thread. I have a 21 300 One RE, bought it about a year ago. The first thing I did (or tried to do) was to put a battery charger pigtail on it, just like I do with all of my other E-start bikes. So I pulled the battery box apart and discovered the battery pack and relay. But the pack did not have posts like a normal battery. Side note; officially the plastic box is part of the battery. I called the importer to see if he had any suggestions. He said I didn't need to charge it and it was impossible to do anyway. So I searched for a replacement. I found an Anti-Gravity battery that was soooo very close to fitting in the box. No go. Long story short, I pretty much destroyed the box and battery itself so I ordered a new one. $300
But all was not lost. I was determined to make this work. Since I butchered up the old box I could use it as a templet on how to run wires to the battery for the charger. The first attempt didn't work. I mean I got the wires in place but it didn't charge. I couldn't figure out why. Then I realized the relay was there and needed to be bypassed. This made a tight fit even tighter. Using the old box I carefully measured where to drill the holes needed and to check wire clearances. A little "finesse" in cramming the wires in there but it worked. I have a bullet connectors on both the positive cable and negative. I bought an extra pigtail and made matching connections. Now i can use my lithium charger anytime its needed. I am going to find some better, smaller connectors but the TRS uses some seriously thick wires for this. I want to look into replacing those as well if possible. I will take a couple of pics later
Well I know I'm coming in late to this thread but it asks exactly what I want to know. I always put pigtails on my bikes for easy charging. So I pulled the headlight assembly off last night, where the battery is stored and its a completely different battery than I was expecting. It did say its a LifePo4 like all the rest but it looked like several C or D batteries stuck together. There are no terminals on top as you would expect. I'm going to follow the wires down under the tank and see if there is a spot to tap into. Or, I will check to see if Firepower or Anti-gravity makes a replacement for it. Works just fine but I like to be safe.
The wires are in the exact place as they were before. The way its set up its impossible to swap them. This is a procedure I have done numerous times without issue. Reversed polarity sounds logical except for how it happened.
I have a 2018 Montesa 300rr with the S3 electric start kit. Best investment ever. However the one thing I don't like about it is that I have to pull the starter motor off to check the motor oil. I've got it down to a science so its not a big deal/
Until tonight. I went to check the oil (good thing I did, it was low) so I started it up according to the manual to warm it up. I used the estart. No issues. Put the starter motor back on like normal, hit the button and it just spins, wont engage the flywheel. After a bunch of rooting around I figured out that the starter is spinning backwards.
Anyone have any idea why it would do this? Everything is hooked up properly, just as it came apart. Thanks
One came from Splat shop in the UK. The other came from R-Racing just outside of Stockton California, but that one was hand built by Randy Lewis. They look totally different. The r-racing has a built on reservoir with a compression adjuster. I believe Rieger makes an aftermarket shock for the Beta as well, available thru Splat shop. If shopping on-line make sure to click on US currency, it removes the Value Added Tax (22%) and get Royal Mail delivery. Fed-ex or UPS adds an import fee, Royal Mail does not. It's pretty fast too.
Thanks for the info. I did find a guy who says he can build one as well, just need to give him the measurements off the stock one.
All modern trials bikes have very good suspension, both front and rear. With that said i have upgraded both of my Betas 2016 4T 300 and 2017 2T 250 with Ohlins rear shocks. After much fiddle farting around i have them working better (for me) than the stock shocks. I have tried the latest Vertigos, TRS, Beta 300SS(loved the motor,but rear end was too stiff) and just the other day a 2018 Monty 260 Repsol (setup was perfect, wouldn't touch a thing). I liked them all, but felt my bikes where not at any disadvantage. I used to change out a bike every year, or year and a half, don't feel i need to do that any more. As a clubman rider both you (and myself) would benefit from riding more, in different riding areas, with better riders rather than ourselves. Just watched a video of Dougie Lampkin riding his 94 model Beta, he's riding some pretty scary stuff, even back then. Run your new 2020 Beta for a while, fiddle with the forks a bit. Try some bikes with the tech forks, if you like them and feel you will get your moneys worth then go for it.
Hi, my biggest question is....where did you find an Ohlins? I've looked everywhere.
Sadly we don't have the size of group needed for a competition yet, however we are working on getting a Ryan Young training school setup for next year now that we are setup with OMC.
Hopefully I will be moving to the Boise area next year and will be bringing my 300 Evo
Hey thanks for the replys, been away from the computer. Yes I know the 40:1 needs to go. Manual says 60:1 but I thought some else also told me 80:1 which I have no problem doing. I was planning on trying the mix before jetting but it definitely pings off the bottom so I might look at the 48 pilot.
Hi, I'm new to the sport, like really really new. Long time motocrosser, good solid 40+ expert rider (almost 60 actually) but a complete and utter spode on this thing. And by this thing I mean a 2019 300 EVO I picked up on a whim this summer. I'm a bit heavy at the moment (225) and installed stiffer springs and adjusted my handlebars a bit further forward. I plan to dump the break in gas (40:1) and use the recommended ratio. Right now it both pings and burbles and blows lots of smoke. Basically I'm wondering what things I should look for, things that break or need modification. Good hop ups, jetting specs, etc. Basic stuff. Any input would help
Battery charging
in TRS
Posted
Yeah, you are right. I did some research on that. But I have been frustrated with how the battery cables come out and in through the frame. Concerned I would have the same problem KRJ had. They fold and bind up. But, the 2023 (22?) have a revised cable routing. I'm glad I am not the only one who thinks the current way sucks. They route them down right under either the lower clamps under the steering stem. They of course run a new clamp that is beveled to not dig into the cables and then goes through a guide that holds them in place. This pretty much eliminates and binding. I have the guide coming and hopefully I can make it work on my 21. I also have the charging cable coming as well. Terribly expensive they are. both totally an insane $30.01 USD.