Also everything is assembled correctly according to the manual
I also found the problem: the gear in which the kickstarter gear engages was damaged on the inner side. So each time it should get back to the neutral position it hook in there and got stuck.
Now i simply smoothed the edges of the gear and now it works fine
Thanks again for all the input and have a nice sunday,!
I find pulling with vacuum from the bleeder nipple to be the most effective. When changing fluid you can just keep it always full so there is no air to bleed. I also use the push with syringe method and the pump and release method. Sometimes I think the different methods help get bubbles out of different places when it does not go well.
Still, bleeding hydraulics on a trials bike, particularly starting with a dry rear caliper, can be a very frustrating job. In addition to methods and techniques, I often feel that there is some sort of higher power that requires a certain level of emotional suffering from the mechanic before allowing those last few bubbles to exit.
tried it also with a vaccuum pump, didn´t work either, no fluid came down to the Bottom bleed screw.
you Name it, but by now i sure as hell have suffered enough for my taste
TXT 250 2003 kickstarter locks after pushing it
in Gas Gas
Posted
Thanks for all your answers.
I checked it also with the Cover on of course
Also everything is assembled correctly according to the manual
I also found the problem: the gear in which the kickstarter gear engages was damaged on the inner side. So each time it should get back to the neutral position it hook in there and got stuck.
Now i simply smoothed the edges of the gear and now it works fine
Thanks again for all the input and have a nice sunday,!