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Cooter78

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Posts posted by Cooter78
 
 
  1. On 2/27/2021 at 5:30 PM, Canario said:

    Hi Erik,

    do you remember the number of the DL12?

    If we talk about the same bike, then it has a new owner now. ?

    Regards Canario

    Hi Canario,

    i don’t remember the number for sure, but somehow the number 13 keeps coming back to me. But i see it not being listed anymore on the website of Nonstop motoren, so probably the same bike. Have fun, ride safe.

  2. On ‎1‎/‎29‎/‎2020 at 6:41 PM, Graham2 said:

     

    I am really, really  pleased with my TRS 250 RR 2017

    I learnt on facebook a useful mod and thought it might be useful to create a list for you/share ideas.

    I will kick of with what has been done to mine. 59 year old, Clubman/Sportsman level riding.

    • A thicker head gasket to make it softer to ride and easier to start
    • Something in the clutch to make it softer.  These first two mods are standard on the 2020 TRS One R  I believe? and were done by a previous owner.
    • A small plate down near the right hand footpeg.  This stops my foot snagging on the bolt heads/frame when searching for the brake pedal
    • Drilling out the swinging arm drain holes
    • Greasing the chain tensioner bolts
    • Fitting an aluminium tickover adjustment screw
    • Clean and lubricate and grease everything!!
    • When refitting the air filter, first remove the bit of plastic around the inlet hole
    • make sure the rad coolant only just covers the fins inside (syringe and plastic tube)

    not a long list, anyone done anything else?

    Not exactly mods but I did also add

    • Full length fork guards
    • Bar raisers
    • Backed of all suspension settings (I am 70kg)
    • Repair /upgraded the water pump shaft and seals.

    Does anyone have suggestions?

    I find the choke awkward to use.

    cheers

     

     

    Hello Graham, which bar raisers did you use?

    Planning on buying some for my new 250RR.

  3. 14 hours ago, Robert n said:

    Does ktm own them now so the 2020 is by ktm 

    The Pierer Mobilty group is the owner of GasGas (they also own KTM and Husqvarna). Problem with GasGas in the recent past was on the financial side of business. Now with Pierer (via KTM) money they do not have to worry about this. The GasGas bikes are still GasGas design and build. Two mates of me have a 2020 GG racing and a 2020 GP. Both are very happy with those bikes.

    • Like 1
  4. 1 hour ago, trippy-taco said:

    I'm in the same situation, 3 weeks ago pickup up a 2019 Vertigo DL 250cc that's only 9 months old. I've been riding 18 months in total. My first bike for that 18 months was a 2016 factory Sherco 250cc, but I've riden almost every other persons bike at my trials club so I have some points of comparison.

    I've found it a great bike and very quickly adjusted to it. I have adjusted the rear spring rate up to account for my weight (90kgs) but am waiting to do the front (parts ordered).

    In the two or 3 rides since I've got it, I have noticed:

    • I am more confident attacking obstacles I am immediately in front of (normally I'd have needed more of a run up). This has been in part the fly wheel weight and linear power delivery allows me to get up AND over things in a more controlled manner.
    • It feels lighter (not weighed it) and feels like I can throw it around more. I can't really hop and nose wheelie, but the small attempts on it feel more natural.
    • Suspension even though not fully dialed in is an upgrade (sherco had tech forks but not as nice as the ones on the DL and ohlins rears shock)

    Cons:

    • The fan is noisy
    • Maintenance is an art in such tight spaces (changing a spark plug required air box removal, removing the rear shock requires removing the rear brake leaver)
    • Ignore the manual in parts....manual says spark plug should be a BPMR6A, but it fouled a plug first time out...should run a BPMR4A that runs hotter (as per forums here)

    Other Observations:

    • Standard spring rates on the rear shock are higher than usual. A friend of mine who helped me with the suspension suspects this is due to the fact the shock doesn't travel as far through the stroke as on other trials bikes. Overall travel is equal at the rear axle, but shorter at the shock.
    • I was considering a 2nd hand TRS Gold 250cc (also a 2019)...but was concerned it was 'too nice' and I would be reluctant to try things for fear of scratching it or breaking it!
    • I really like 4 strokes and the other bike I was tempted to get was a 2017 Beta Factory 300CC, but it was offered at a time when I wasn't in a position to take it up.
    • I've tried the 300 Combat 2019 edition and didn't like it...too snappy and abrupt power delivery. I'm sure it could have been tuned to suit or just run it in the rain mode, but the DL on the other hand (although also a 250 so you need to allow for that) feels better due to fly wheel weight and tuning. 300 might be snappier and suit someone more experienced, but for my abilities I'm really glad to have the 250cc.

     

    I've only had 3 weeks but if I had to buy another bike tomorrow, I'd buy another Vertigo Dougie Lampkin edition...I feel like a better rider already.

    Thnx for the input.

  5. 3 hours ago, tcrhino said:

    And statements like the one above don't help.... 

    I (almost) weekly ride a Vertigo and have done so the last 3 years. Had one small issue on my first Vertigo (2017 model). The current one starts and runs faultless. 
    Do you plan buying from Andre (Nonstop)?

    Yes the one at Nonstop could be an option for a next trials bike.

    • Like 1
  6. My local Vertigo dealer has a 2019 Vertigo DL12 Dougie Replica 300cc for sale.

    Half year old, very little time on it. So basically it is like new.

    Is it that much better than a standard Vertigo or just a marketing thing (limited edition - 50 made worldwide / other color decals / titanium silencer)?

    I currently ride a 2017 Montesa 300RR, i might consider the Vertigo.

    Any help is appreciated.

    Greetz Erik

  7. On 3/11/2016 at 8:09 PM, gazza7965 said:

    Hi givemea5

     

    I did this conversion for my 315 and it does make it look much more modern.It is not too difficult to do but there are some mods needed to make it fit correctly. I will try and detail everything I did:

     

    1. Obviously cut down the mudguard, I did this carefully with a large hacksaw blade. You need to line it up by fitting the mudguard to the bike with the 2 mounting holes fitted to the brackets on the airbox and mark where it meets the tank on each side of the new mudguard. Make a template from 2 inch masking tape of the profile of the edge of the fuel tank where the mudguard will meet or the original 315 mudguard front edge. use this as a template to cut across the the 4rt mudguard, this also helps not to scratch the new mudguard when cutting. Once cut you will find you will have to chamfer the edge of the mudguard where it meets the tank as the edge of the fuel tank is angled. (The cut should go through the middle of the two front square vent holes on the mudguard) see picture

    2. Drilling the hole to mount the mudguard at the front.- I drilled a 6 mm clearance hole in the centre of the mudguard, 35mm from the front edge once it had been cut. This may need to slightly elongated but not by much to fit perfectly. 

    3. Mudguard mounting brackets on the airbox..I found that the original airbox mounting brackets not to be correctly located to make the mudguard sit right. I found that only one of these brackets can be used. To get the mudguard to sit correctly, i swapped the right hand bracket to the left hand side which in effect moves the mounting position up a little. I made a new bracket for the other side, it is not too difficult they are only sheet metal. This bracket is best made once you have the mudguard sitting correctly on the front mounting and the left hand side mounting. This then shows you exactly what shape the right hand side bracket has to be.

    4. Modifications under the mudguard. The 4RT mudguard has a plastic plate moulded into the guard towards the front that when fitted, sits on top of the airbox, I think its stops the mudguard flexing downwards when sitting on it. The airbox is obviously different on the 315 so this has to be modified.  I pop rivetted an aluminium plate to the original plastic tab that when fitted gave a measurement of 55mm from the bottom of the plate (where it would touch the 315 airbox) to the underneath of the mudguard. There is also a gap where the underneath of the mudguard meets the back of airbox which if not covered in some way would allow all the mud/water thrown off the tyres to go through the gap and run down on top of the air filter area. I made another metal plate and sandwiched a rubber flap (made from an old inner tube) and pop riveted this to the flange that runs across the middle of the mudguard underneath. This flange must also be trimmed to fit before fitting the plate as it fouls the airbox mounting brackets. Finally glue some expanded foam rubber to the underneath the mudguard with contact adhesive to close the gap completely and allow no mud/debris thrown off the  rear wheel to enter the top of the airbox. see picture.

     5. The front mounting bolt. On the 315 mudguard, the front mounting bolt sits in a recess and the underneath of the recess sits on top of the fuel tank mounting grommet. This is not the case on the cut down 4RT mudguard, which means a much longer bolt is required. I found this gives a problem, when sitting on the bike, the mudguard still wants to flex and put this bolt under a lot of pressure. I got round this by making a new fixing that fixes the fuel tank in position first and then allows the new mudguard to sit on top of this fixing and allows a much shorter bolt to be used to secure the mudguard. This is made from a 10 mm bolt with the unthreaded shaft part cut to a length of 15mm. (This replaces the spacer used to originally fix the fuel tank) Drill through the centre of the entire 10 mm bolt and tap all the way through the 10 mm bolt to a 6mm thread.Thread lock a 20 mm stud of 6mm studding into the bottom leaving around 12 mm of the thread exposed. You then have plenty of female thread on top of the bolt to use to fix the mudguard using a 12 mm long, 6mm button head allen screw. see picture.

    6. Finishing touches. Where the 4RT mudguard now meets the fuel tank, the front vent square holes are no longer the same shape. I made some decals that give the appearance that the mudguard shape and appearance has been maintained - see picture.

     

    I hope I have covered everything and this makes sense but if you have any questions then please let me know.

     

    post-21829-0-76091900-1457721389_thumb.jpg

    post-21829-0-64778000-1457721483_thumb.jpg

    post-21829-0-63171400-1457721513_thumb.jpg

    post-21829-0-21203200-1457721549_thumb.jpg

    post-21829-0-06337900-1457722936_thumb.jpg

     

     

    Hello gazza7975,

    I am planning on giving a 2003 315R a 4rt Repsol make over. Powdercoating the frame, swingarm hubs black and the rims orange. Also using 4rt plastics and Repsol racing decals.

    For the orange rims i found out that the color should be RAL2003, what did you use for the black? Should this be matt or glossy?

    Is there a certain 4rt Repsol model year of which the decals fit the best on a 315?

    Any other things i should take into account when updating the 315?

    Thanks in advance.

 
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