Bauer

Completely agree - I was just trying to get to the bottom of it in the event I was missing something. It's just odd to me.

I've wondered about all of your points as well. I would have just expected that after a 5 min warm up, it would be, well, warm enough for the exhaust and the rings - perhaps not. Glad I'm not going crazy and others are experiencing it. Out of curiosity, do yours do this in either mode? (Sun and Rain?) I have an event and I may test my theory by putting it back in Sun mode to start. Just figured I would ask the collective if there's something else I'm missing.

Hello everyone I have an issue that's puzzling me. I have a 2017 280 TXT Racing. I've noticed recently that after starting the bike, and letting it warm up for 3-5 mins (choke for only about 30 seconds of that) - when I first start out, the motor seems like it's loaded up. It's almost like it's missing - lack of power. After another 2 mins or so of riding, it evens out and runs like a champ the rest of the day, even after long stretches of sitting. I believe the bike is jetted correctly. I consistently run 100:1 Two changes I've made in the last few months: 1. Changed from Yamalube to Motul for my mix. Bike seems to like it, can't imagine this is it 2. It occurred to me today that I started using the Rain mode on the selector about the time I noticed this behavior. I'm not sure this isn't just coincidence, as the bike runs fine the rest of the day, but maybe not.... Anyone have any other thoughts? thanks! Michael

I have a '17 280 and I had a heck of a time when I first got it (you'll probably find my post on here about it if you search.) I will say that the rocking back and forth seems to have made the biggest difference. I don't know how tall you are, but I'm about 6'1" and I also found that moving the shifter lever back 1-2 splines on the shaft made a difference to the kicking angle where I felt resistance near TDC. I know they are all a little different, but I think after 25-30 minutes of "off" time, I might need to use the choke depending on how hard I'd been riding prior to shutting it off.

I was wondering about that - I saw lots of caps when I did some looking around but wasn't able to find a wire unit that was similar enough. Is the 5k resistor built in to the current cap? So I'd need to look for a 5k replacement?

Thanks Peter - I'll have to source one of the original nuts As for the plug...the plug wire I have is make to sit on top of the threaded part of the plug, not the "nut" that goes over it. That said, it's still a lot looser than I would expect. I may be able to crimp it a bit with super skinny needle nose pliers, but I'd also probably pick up another wire Michael

Hello all I realized this weekend that my 280 was missing the nut from the front motor mount - according to the exploded diagram, and the image I was able to find, the "special M10 nut" is indeed a unique design. I'm wondering if anyone has ever just used a regular lock nut and washer combo? Perhaps you'd have to get a slightly longer bolt? Looks like there are two "special" M10 nuts - the regular, and the 1,5 that is for the rear engine mount Secondly - does anyone sell (or had anyone here put together) a hardware pack of the most used fasteners? Lastly - my spark plug wire is pretty loose on the plug - is there anything special about the design, or can it be swapped with one I can (hopefully) source locally? thanks! Michael

I'm probably going to do a more comprehensive tear down at the end of this season. Knowing the guy who I bought it from - he and his son are pretty hard on bikes, but also kept up on the maintenance really well. I took a look at the exploded diagram for the swing arm and bearings - looks like an interesting project....

I haven't dug in to a lot of the maintenance items yet, but I'll get that soon. I'll be replacing the wheel bearings along with the gear oil and coolant - probably after the first event. I've talked to Kev Hipwell on FB - he showed me his fix to the fan/radiator issue, and I'm going to shoot for something like that. It's more or less what I was thinking. Look forward to meeting you if you are able to make it ~m

Picked up the bike last night and spent some time with it today. Was able to start it up both cold and hot without much issue. 2-3 kicks at the most. Interestingly, I found I was able to do so w/o using the throttle at all, whereas the previous owner was using the throttle in warm starts.

Those just might do the trick. I think it’s just a matter of making sure you don’t crack the radiator frame by inserting them too tightly My original thought was to see if there was a way to just drill out the holes on the radiator frame and run bolts clear through the fan housing and the radiator frame and tighten with bolts in front of the radiator frame. I don’t have the bike yet, so I’m not sure if the bolts would clear the down tubes. But these things would do the trick, I think

Well, I have a couple weeks before first trials event I want to ride. The current owner starts it no problem, every time, which means it can be done, and it’s not a mechanical issue. Grated, he’s been riding it for two years. I only tried it a couple times when I test rode it. It’s not going any further than my garage until I get the procedure down. I don’t mind having to sort out the procedure, I just wanted to make sure there wasn’t some secret I was missing.

Hello all Thanks for the input. Much appreciated Regarding buying a bike that I can’t start. I haven’t had to kick start anything since I was a teenager and that was a LONG time ago. The current owner is able to fire it up right away, so I”m sure it’s just a matter of me getting the routine down. To be fair, I only tried a couple of times. I”m sure once I spend a bit of time with it, I”ll have no issues. Just wanted to make sure I wasn’t missing some sort of trick Art - I actually did the Puget Sound Trialers training class a week ago - it was literally my first time on a trials bike (my instructor let me ride his Beta 250) I was hooked - joined the club then and there, and set out to find a bike. I’m actually purchasing my GG from a club member. I had seen an article about the potential new trials area somewhere....I”m also a member of Shelton Dirt Riders out your way. Do you have any favorite spots you hit for practice? Michael

Hello all. First post here. I am picking up a 2017 280 TXT later this week. It’s been ridden by a club pro level rider the last couple of years and It’s in pretty good shape all things considered. I’ve been doing a lot of reading on here but had a couple questions: fan - it’s still working but it appears all 4 bolts that mount it to the radiator have stripped out. It’s now just wedged in there. I don’t think it’s going anywhere - but is there a way to drill out and re tap or do folks just go to zip ties if this happens? starting - it’s a bear to start - any tricks or tips here? The current owner claims if you really snap your kick and give it a bit of gas it starts right up. That wasn’t my experience when I test rode it yesterday fork guards - anyone have a recommendation here? It has one but the other must have broken off two stroke oil - current owner runs Yamalube at 100:1. I was thinking of going to Motul synth based on what I’ve read. Any issue with a switch? thanks much for any responses Michael