I've installed a full all balls kit in my 09 evo 2T and after 60 hours they are spot on, a lot of people slate them but I'm betting they are the same folk who jet wash the bearings to within an inch of their lives thus removing the grease.
I did liberally grease every joint with water proof grease and I'm careful to not blast them with a jet wash.
These large syringes let you get some nice pressure to force the air out.
Get the front wheel above the rear wheel so the rear caliper is lower than the master cylinder.
Use a long run of clear pipe on the syringe to the caliper bleed nipple, remove the reservoir under the plastic and allow the black pipe to reach out of the bike into a drip tray/container.
Open the nipple and force some brake fluid through under a lot of pressure, close the nipple and pump the brake pedal really hard a few times to break up any air bubbles in the system, bleed once again and try the pedal, it should be spot on now.
Refit the reservoir and top up with fluid, tap the reservoir to make the trapped air in the black pipe rise into the reservoir.
Ok Billy the holes to lighten the floats made me laugh.
Basssound OK, I just had to make sure.
Betas turn the tightest of any bike and reward good technique but will punish bad technique and pushing the front end is a common complaint. The first thing must new riders will assign blame to is the engine/clutch. They can be a contributing factor. Especially the clutch (see clutch thread pinned to top of forum) but the usual issue is just lack of control working engine vs clutch vs rear brake. Add to that most new riders will try to steer with upper body and weight distribution and though you may cobble together a working riding style the fundamentals are wrong and will limit progress to a certain point. Watch videos of good riders and note how they keep their torsos forward and steer by bending the inside leg and arm while straightening the outside leg and arm. Even the top guys will only de-center to start a dynamic move and get their body re-centered as quickly as possible. You’ll hear a lot of BS about weight the inside peg or the outside peg in various terrain. Ignore it. If you weight one peg without the intent of changing the attitude of the bike you will have to counterweight the opposite bar to keep the bike from flopping over. You’ve now induced torsion in your body that limits your ability to respond.
Rule one: Stay centered.
Rule two: Steer with your feet.
Rule three: Think pressure not weight.
Rule four: See rule one.
If you can find a copy of the Bernie Schriber/Len Weed book Observed Trials buy it and give it a thorough read. It may be old but the basic instruction in it is as true today as it was when it was written. You’ve just started and have much to learn. I’ve been riding trials bikes for >35 years. I also have much to learn?. But damn it’s been and continues to be a fun journey.
Thank you for the long and very factual reply, as you are saying, the main issue is me and the fact that today is the 5th time I've ridden a motorbike, all five times are on this bike...
The reason for getting an older beta was incase I didn't get on with trialing, I really enjoy it but I'm finding issues with the bike but that's down to me.
There are genuine issues with the bike like the idle speed will move around through the day, the piston knocks when on very partial throttle, just off the idle which is down to the completely blocked exhaust silencer wadding, that's on order.
The flywheel has the weight fitted and the bike has a slow action throttle but I'm beginning to think I need a fast action throttle as I have to twist the throttle quite a bit to get the bike to rev, also I've removed just about all of throttle cable slack.
The float arm was upside down when I stripped the carb, the perpendicular tang was pointing down.
I turned the arm and refitted, the arm sat perfectly parallel to the carb body whilst on the needle but not compressing the needle spring. I then adjusted the travel tang so that it was 1/16th above the left tower at max lift.
I did notice the bike performed better with a higher idle but I thought that would be wrong as the higher idle may push me out on tighter turns but that's just my very novice bike handling, this is only the fourth time I've ridden a motorbike.
He'llo everyone, first time posting in here as I'm new to trialling.
I've got myself a 2006 Rev 3 250, I really enjoy riding it but I've noticed a couple of things.
First off the carb would dribble all the time from the atmosphere tubes so I did the BILLY T mod with the plate tang, replaced the vent pipes with long ones going over the carb.
Whilst I had the carb stripped and cleaned in the bath, I checked the needle to find the rubber hard with a dip in the cone so fitted a genuine needle and body.
The carb also had the standard 30 pilot and 150 main, I've read the I should try the 27.5 pilot and 145 main so I've fitted a 27.5 but I'm waiting on the 145, I've refitted the 150.
Now I'm noticing the bike seems to want to stall easily when I'm slipping the clutch to start moving... This didn't happen until I modded the carb.
What should the basic settings be when rebuilding the carb, what should the air fuel screw be set to, it's set to 1 ¾ turns out.
Also there's a brass overflow pipe under the carb, should the be a pipe on that like the vent pipes?
Lastly, the throttle cable on top of the carb, the metal bend into the top cap, should that be tightened or left loose as I've read something about air getting in at the point and messing with the air fuel ratio.
All Balls Linkage kit - Beware!
in General Trials Talk
Posted
I've installed a full all balls kit in my 09 evo 2T and after 60 hours they are spot on, a lot of people slate them but I'm betting they are the same folk who jet wash the bearings to within an inch of their lives thus removing the grease.
I did liberally grease every joint with water proof grease and I'm careful to not blast them with a jet wash.