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basssound

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Everything posted by basssound
 
 
  1. I've installed a full all balls kit in my 09 evo 2T and after 60 hours they are spot on, a lot of people slate them but I'm betting they are the same folk who jet wash the bearings to within an inch of their lives thus removing the grease. I did liberally grease every joint with water proof grease and I'm careful to not blast them with a jet wash.
  2. You can bend a standard feeler gauge if you warm it up and bend, keep the radius shallow and the blade won't snap. I've done this when setting tappets on large diesel truck engines when the tappets are buried.
  3. What's the chance of getting them shipped to the UK?
  4. What you need is this https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B084QHHG3C?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share These large syringes let you get some nice pressure to force the air out. Get the front wheel above the rear wheel so the rear caliper is lower than the master cylinder. Use a long run of clear pipe on the syringe to the caliper bleed nipple, remove the reservoir under the plastic and allow the black pipe to reach out of the bike into a drip tray/container. Open the nipple and force some brake fluid through under a lot of pressure, close the nipple and pump the brake pedal really hard a few times to break up any air bubbles in the system, bleed once again and try the pedal, it should be spot on now. Refit the reservoir and top up with fluid, tap the reservoir to make the trapped air in the black pipe rise into the reservoir.
  5. Thank you for the long and very factual reply, as you are saying, the main issue is me and the fact that today is the 5th time I've ridden a motorbike, all five times are on this bike... The reason for getting an older beta was incase I didn't get on with trialing, I really enjoy it but I'm finding issues with the bike but that's down to me. There are genuine issues with the bike like the idle speed will move around through the day, the piston knocks when on very partial throttle, just off the idle which is down to the completely blocked exhaust silencer wadding, that's on order. The flywheel has the weight fitted and the bike has a slow action throttle but I'm beginning to think I need a fast action throttle as I have to twist the throttle quite a bit to get the bike to rev, also I've removed just about all of throttle cable slack.
  6. The 'adjust this tang to set the float travel' in the above picture was facing down and not up, it's up the above picture. I'm still waiting for the 145 main jet to come. Is there much adjustment regarding the mixture screw once I fit the smaller main jet.
  7. The float arm was upside down when I stripped the carb, the perpendicular tang was pointing down. I turned the arm and refitted, the arm sat perfectly parallel to the carb body whilst on the needle but not compressing the needle spring. I then adjusted the travel tang so that it was 1/16th above the left tower at max lift. I did notice the bike performed better with a higher idle but I thought that would be wrong as the higher idle may push me out on tighter turns but that's just my very novice bike handling, this is only the fourth time I've ridden a motorbike.
  8. He'llo everyone, first time posting in here as I'm new to trialling. I've got myself a 2006 Rev 3 250, I really enjoy riding it but I've noticed a couple of things. First off the carb would dribble all the time from the atmosphere tubes so I did the BILLY T mod with the plate tang, replaced the vent pipes with long ones going over the carb. Whilst I had the carb stripped and cleaned in the bath, I checked the needle to find the rubber hard with a dip in the cone so fitted a genuine needle and body. The carb also had the standard 30 pilot and 150 main, I've read the I should try the 27.5 pilot and 145 main so I've fitted a 27.5 but I'm waiting on the 145, I've refitted the 150. Now I'm noticing the bike seems to want to stall easily when I'm slipping the clutch to start moving... This didn't happen until I modded the carb. What should the basic settings be when rebuilding the carb, what should the air fuel screw be set to, it's set to 1 ¾ turns out. Also there's a brass overflow pipe under the carb, should the be a pipe on that like the vent pipes? Lastly, the throttle cable on top of the carb, the metal bend into the top cap, should that be tightened or left loose as I've read something about air getting in at the point and messing with the air fuel ratio.
 
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