kasper

It was air, as I don't have a vacuum pump, here are the steps I took, which might be useful for someone else as well: 1) Check the calliper on the bike and ensure it is adequately filled. In my case, it was already almost full. 2) Remove the bleeding screw. 3) Take off the hose banjo bolt. It's a good idea to have two new copper washers (10mm) ready. 4) Find a thin and soft wire and use it to stir and disturb the screw holes as much as possible. You can also tap the calliper gently. This will help the air escape from the piston and other cavities. Make sure that the oil level is clearly visible from the banjo bolt hole the whole time. 5) Put everything back together. 6) Next, use a syringe to slowly backfill the entire system from the bleeding screw. The goal is to push the air into the master cylinder, so take your time and do it as slowly as possible.

Yesterday, after posting it here I read more about the bleeding of the rear brakes. I understand that the process is tedious. I will give it another try, unfortunately, I don’t have the vacuum bleeder, but I’ll give it a try with syringes once more. @arnoux made a valid point that the back of the pistons might still have air bubbles trapped in them. Regarding my original question… The master cylinder should be interchangeable as the rear callipers are the same on both master cylinders. So there should be no difference in the length of the stroke or the volume of the brake fluid. With the older master cylinder, there is a chance to open the top lid without unbolting the master cylinder itself from the frame. With the new one, there is no chance to do it. Also, for future users/others, the brake hose banjo on the cylinder side is 10mm instead of 8mm. It is no 1-2-1 swap. And thank you both @rotors7 @arnoux

Hello I have a 2014 GG Replica, it has an "older" rear brake master cylinder (part number BT660002811) as it wasn't available quickly enough, I bought the newer version (part number BT66000GG-CSV-1). The banjo on the older is 8mm and the more recent is 10mm, I made the new house with proper banjos. However, I am not able to get it working correctly. The brake is really weak, almost non-existent. There is a chance, that I still have air in the system, but pumping the brake does not make it any better. Checked/done so far: 1) No leaks; 2) New hose, proper armoured hydraulic hose, professionally made 3) Probably no air, I injected the oil from the calliper side, with a large syringe. Slowly pushed thru a few hundred millilitres;

I have 2014 280 raga with flywheel weight. Few things I have noticed that made a difference for me: The throttle is smoother Does not stall as easy as it used to stall Carries more momentum Starts easier As you said for "Just for smoothing out the bottom" - flywheel weight does exactly this. The biggest downside, is that it keeps the revs up for a bit and I was gaining speed with "second throttle", when I didn't need it. Not a big thing, but with more tech stuff I tend to forget it and mess up from time to time.

Hello, I am curious about your experiences with LiPo packs. Recently my daughter moved to 16" Oset. I made 13.5A S8 LiPo pack for her 12", it was good enough for half a day riding G class competition. The main battery drop was actually happening between stages on the crossings. What is your experience with 16" Oset and LiPo-s, what amperage you have and how long and what distance it can cover?

Someone can correct me, but as far as I know it has 1.4kW DC motor Watts = Amps x Volts 1400W / 48V = ~30A, but keep in mind electric motor can draw much higher amps under a load (accelerating). But... When accelerating, the peak Amps can be 55A, although I would guessed something around 45A. In the end the question is what is the average amperage it draws and what is the timeframe it draws 55.

My daughter started around the same age on the older Oset 12.5... Tire pressure, as long as the rim doesn't spin in the tire, you are good to go. What is the exact pressure is hard to say, as their quality is so-and-so... Few things I learnt: If the pegs start to be an issue, zip-tie them up. But first, see if that is an issue at all Speed - rather a bit faster (not crazy fast, but jogging speed is better than walking speed. Helps with the balance) Get a tether switch (if you don't have - normally closed). For first few rides you can run next to him and keep the tether if anything goes wrong, you can just pull it off. The engine braking is very good with these bikes... Later, after each crash, he can get the bike up himself. I didn’t have it in the beginning and while she was lifting the bike, it caused some very weird spins and loops. If you don’t have any mx or trials boots, make sure he wears some higher boots (my girl used some robust rainboots). First of it helps when the footpegs hit, but also when the bike drops on the leg. It is heavy, especially with acid batteries. Knee guards are also a good investment

That is so very true :). Thanks for input!

Hey, I am looking to update my kid’s 12.5 Oset to the next (16) size. I hope this is an okay subforum to post this question. Anyway, I initially was looking for the Oset 16 bikes, but then I noticed there are some alternatives. Beta has their minitrail, Mecatechno has something. Maybe some more alternatives. My question is, how do they compare to each other? Here, where I live Oset is for sure the most popular, but a few hundred more expensive than Beta is (new), Mecatechno not sure is available locally. As far as I understand all still come with acid batteries, or are there any that are already with the LiPo available out of the store?