Yes, I think if he's said No once he will take the opinion that I'm chancing my arm/badgering etc... and is inclined to say No again.
The journey is 14miles and I'm sure those of you who ride in South East England will know where I'm riding. It won't be the most pleasant 30mins but I HATE the agg of loading my car. The thought of being able to ride there is much more appealing but the only trials bike I'd trust is a Mont. Breaking down 14miles from home isn't an option...
I have never had my Montesa even once compared to an enduro. I have had a few people ask if it was a stunt bike but that is about it. Even then, if he is against the Freeride then I would strait up ask about a trials bike before putting any cash down on a bike.
Good luck!
Edit: And if he is okay with a trials bike and you do get a 4RT, if it comes with a seat or you get a seat for it I wouldn't ride there with the seat on the bike or he will probably say it isn't a trials bike.
Thanks, Jonny.
I don't want to name the area but the owner of the land is very much 'my way or feck orf'.
I'm sure that if I asked again it'd be a flat No, but if put one of those velcro Jitsie seats on my Sherco it wouldn't be an issue...
I want a 4Ride as I'm a casual wobbler who doesn't have a van and lives on a busy estate with limited parking. Loading my bike onto the Dave Cooper rack is a ball ache which requires shifting cars around and inevitably blocking my cul-de-sac.
It's 16miles to where I ride and it'd be so much easier to ride there & back, rather than the PIA of loading my car.
I know this is incredibly subjective and what started out as 200 v 300 for a trials novice (albeit familiar with other bike sport) has evolved!
Sounds like a 200 is forgiving, great on tricky stuff in the mud but can be frustrating compared to more forgiving larger capacity bikes (especially when grip is there).
I understand a bike's behaviour is affected by many variables & gearing, timing, throttle tubes, flywheel weights, low comp heads, thick base gaskets etc can all be used to 'tune' but arguably if this was the solution then we'd all ride 300's- just with bolt on parts. That's not the case and I don't want to force a square peg in a round hole.
I would love to experiment and try different bikes, but every change of bike costs money and inevitably whatever you buy needs money invested.
I've decided the Beta Evo 200 isn't for me (thanks to help in this thread) and I've fitted new Michelins which are certainly softer, just from squeezing the knobs with my fingers.
If I still don't get on with the 300 I'll try a 250, probably TRS from what I'm reading. Tractable power for the muddy South of England!
Sorry, but not everyone takes that point of view. I bought a brand new one 2 years ago and was glad to see the back of it after 10 months including hot, cold, wet and dry weather down South UK. Frankly, it was gutless with far too many gears. There are loads of people on TC who say it's a great bike but as there are so very few of these machine about, have they ever actually owned one? I doubt it. If they are that great, then why are they still so rare? I suggest that the claim they are the 'answer' is a trials myth. They aren't They re OK but nothing special. Get the Beta 250, an excellent all round bike. Better still buy a TRRS.
Great feedback, thank you.
I've wondered why there are so few but put it down to fashion. I know the local trials coach advocates 300s and his daughter rides a 300, too.
I was close to getting the 200 last week but came to the conclusion that when it's slimy & I'm tired I'd love it, but might miss the instant 'pop' of a 300. Back to the drawing board.
I'm reticent to ask about bike brands, models or recommendations but locally TRS and Montesa seem to be the most popular models, often ridden by riders at a level o aspire to. (Good clubman, but not Expert).
A 9 year old tyre will be as hard as the rocks. A new tyre run at 4 or below in the mud will make a lot of difference. The fact that you've had a 300 before (granted it wasn't he freshest) and didnt find it too powerful in the dry makes me think you may be disappointed with a 200. I always urge less experienced riders away from 300s because they get away from them, but i wouldn't just because you are struggling to find grip in the winter. I vote 250.
7 in the front is also high. especially on worn tyres. Maybe you're trying your best to avoid punctures, but in mud going, max 5.5 in front, max 3.5-4 in the rear.
Really useful advice, thank you.
I'll try new rubber and see if there's an improvement.
What tyre pressure are you running? My 280 is powerful enough to break the traction easily in wet conditions. I am lazy and often do not bother to check or adjust the pressure but the difference between (for example) 3psi and 7psi is huge. The missus has a Beta 250 and an IRC rear and it copes well with the poor surfaces. My Michelin loses pressure and so I tend to pump it up a little too much to compensate and (as I am lazy) often run a bit too high.
I am not sure that such drastic measures as a change of bike should be needed?
On Sunday I was 7psi front, 4.5psi rear. The tyres were old, however, and until then I'd never looked at the date codes. Mid 2012 front and early 2013 rear.
I'll be the first to say that I'm very inexperienced and trials is just a hobby. I'm a keen sportsman in other pursuits and haven't put enough seat time in- I get by more on my experience of MTB racing, cyclo trials and motocross.
I've got new Michelins to go on now but I was absolutely awful. God awful. So bad.
I'm willing to take drastic measures as my performance on Sunday is enough to make me a summer only rider.
You might want to consider a Beta 250 too. It's probably the most tame of the 250's. I presently ride a Beta 200 Factory and like it very much. I started riding trials on a 125 4 years ago, with many years of enduro experience. I ride in Upstate NY and the sections look just like Southeast England.... muddy hills and off cambers, with a bit of streams with muddy banks. The 200 is a good upgrade from my previous 125's. It still takes a little more throttle and technique than a bigger bike, but less than the 125. When I trade in a couple of years, I think I'll go to a Beta 250.
Thanks for the input.
Everything I've read about the 200 (from clubmen) is positive and based what conditions are like in the UK, plus the typically tight nature of sections, I thought it might be a winner.
I did suspect somebody would suggest the 250 as middle ground...
First, some back story- are you sitting comfortably?
Nov '20 I try my first trials bike, a 1971 Bultaco Sherpa 250. It feels really natural, tractable and I decide to get my own bike.
Lockdown happens (again) so I don't really start riding until April, but I get a 2001 Gasgas TXT. Love it, but it's tired & needs TLC, so I go newer.
Next up is a '13 Sherco ST300. It has a few mechanical niggles but when it works, it's good. I ride through the summer and autumn of this year.
But now it's winter and OMG this is a different game. I'm struggling so much I'm failing to even complete easy sections. The 300 made carrying the front wheel over rocks or popping off small ledges easy, but now with my skill level that same character means wheel spin & no confidence.
I'm honestly thinking of getting a Beta Evo 200; it'll be a better bike for me in the muddy south east on easy & inter sections, BUT, will I regret in the summer when the plentiful power of the 300 was an asset in the dry?
You've most likely got tension on the throttle cable, one end not seated right or cable not routed right.
Easily done. Best to check that the slide taps on the Idle screw before you start a bike. Just apply a small amount of throttle and let go, and listen for the familiar tap sound.
Totty, you've saved me stripping the bike back to pieces again.
Throttle cable wasn't quite seated correctly; wasn't out by much but I guess the choke/enrichment plus a little bit of slide height caused BIG revs.
Than you. If I can edit the thread title I will do in case it helps anybody else.
Let's start by all pointing and laughing at me- never has one motorbike caused me so much stress and made me so mechanically inept*
My 2013 ST 300 Sherco (yes, it's me again) was getting a stuck carb float every single ride. Free it with a tap, then carry on for an hour. Deciding to try and cure this issue I did some research, I spoke to Splatshop and this was the agreed plan:
Change the inline fuel filter, disassemble the fuel pump to clean it, clean out the tank, clean out the carb, replace the float valve, check the bore where the float valve sits and ensure the floats aren't catching.
So tank checked. No dirt.
Fiddly fuel pump checked and reassembled (badly). No dirt.
Float valve seems fine, no signs of gummyness or crud, but replaced with new one.
Floats appear to move freely, float height not knowingly changed/buggered up.
Try to start it, plenty of kicks and nothing. Only thing I notice is I think it sounds different when I kick it, like more induction noise.
Decide it must be the fuel pump and it's not getting petrol, but check the plug and it's wet (and a little oily). Clean the plug, put it back, kick some more.
On about kick 10 it suddenly fires and REVS TO THE MOON. I hit the kill button and go indoors to get clean pants.
So what have I buggered up this time? Carb is sitting sweetly in the inlet manifold, throttle is returning nicely and the slide looked fine.
*I don't pretend to be a good or experienced mechanic but I've half an idea. I managed to remove the engine from my R1, take it for a rebuild and put it back myself so surely removing a carb to replace a float valve shouldn't be too much for me? Based on how it's going with this Sherco I don't think I'm fit to build a Lego set...
The oil my ST had less drag was with motul transoil.
7 hours ago, Glayne said:
I also prefer Motul transoil in my GasGas.
On 8/14/2021 at 8:31 PM, stpauls said:
In my 2014 Sherco ST, after experimenting with several different oils, I used 450mm of ATF Dextron 3.
Thanks, guys. (I actually used Motul in my GasGas and Motul 300V in my R1. I rate them very highly).
I'd decided to go with Elf HTX740 as that sounds like one of the most slippery, lowest viscosity gearbox oils.
Phoned Splatshop to order and it was confirmed that whilst it probably would solve the drag, it's also a very 'quick' clutch. As a novice progressive is better for me.
Clutch lever action feels very positive, better than before. I'm not saying it's a perfect bleed, but it's certainly up to the task and the piston moves well.
I'm confident it's not an actuation issue.
This is sufficient drag for the bike to always be pulling, and now neutral can't be found.
The 2013 Sherco ST I bought earlier this year has always suffered from clutch drag-terrible when cold, just annoying when warm.
Last weekend I bled the clutch and changed the gearbox oil- 450ml Putoline light gear oil.
Just started the bike and wobbled around the garden, and it's worse than before. I'm thinking maybe it wasn't absolutely empty and so now it's slightly overfilled?
me and my team will be laying out the trial at Canada Heights. We hope to have around 15 sections with two to three routes; one easy (for newcomers), one as easy novice and one as easy intermediates. as said above no obsevers so less pressure, some sections you will find easy while others might have a skill set you hadven't mastered yet that you'll want to work on. there will be a wide array of riders there, ranging from the regular guys who ride every weekend to very occasional riders, tiwnshocks, pre65s, youths, etc (even sidecars).
Erith club have a NKTC round (a covid practice trial this time) at Horsmonden this weekend, entries should still be avaliable on the ACU online entry site. Keep an eye out for Bexleyheath and OWLS club trials as well as other events around.
Rabie, that is so helpful- thank you. Are you with Sidcup Club? I think I might join them.
This weekend I'm planning on riding at Poles Wood with my dad who has a '71 Bultaco Sherpa and got me into this (riding the Bultaco last October was my first taste of trials) but I'll definitely enter some of the other events.
I have a LOT to learn about the sport but really enjoying wobbling around.
Some clubs run a "Gentleman's" route; ie pass through the start and end gates and go where you like in-between. They're good for beginners because you can try to do the full easy route but dodge any little bits you're not happy about. As you've entered a practice trial no-one will be marking you so simply avoid the bits you don't like. It's preferable to missing out a section altogether.
Thanks, I'm looking out for local events which cater to novices. I've taken a look at the North Kent Trials Combine as suggested by Goudrons2, too.
Thanks guys, all those comments are very useful and supportive. I'm not adverse to coming last (finished at the back plenty of times) and I've got a few trophies in other disciplines to balance it.
Goudrons2, I've been learning at Poles Wood so have joined Southend District MCC but I live in the Borough of Thurrock so have unlimited crossings of Dartford. This means that events around North Kent are a possibility for me.
I bought my first trials bike in December last year, rode it for the first time Sun Jan 3rd...
..and not again until lockdown allowed in April.
I'm a cowardly novice that can do rudimentary basics, but that's it.
I've entered a Sidcup Club (Canada Heights) practice trial as I'm keen to try real sections and learn more, but know I'll be either getting fives or taking fives everywhere!
Will my lack of ability frustrate more seasoned riders, or is it accepted (dare I even say encouraged?) that new riders need to start somewhere?
A Question for 4Ride Owners
in Montesa
Posted · Edited by JonM
Thanks for the help.
Yes, I think if he's said No once he will take the opinion that I'm chancing my arm/badgering etc... and is inclined to say No again.
The journey is 14miles and I'm sure those of you who ride in South East England will know where I'm riding. It won't be the most pleasant 30mins but I HATE the agg of loading my car. The thought of being able to ride there is much more appealing but the only trials bike I'd trust is a Mont. Breaking down 14miles from home isn't an option...