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  1. In the end I did eveything. Swinging arm out and regreased etc. The Bungies trick to carry the arm was a neat one. was quite a bit of forward a bit back a bit with the new bearings to make the same gap either end for the dust seals (prob a suitably sized washer would’ve helped) but got there in the end.
  2. Thanks a lot all three ! Presumably, drop the rear wheel out (support the rear part of the swinging arm on something) and remove the chain and the brake hose clamps before detaching the swinging arm to grease the main pivot. I’ll give it a go this weekend. Grease at the ready !
  3. Hello all, ive got some play at the rear dogbone bearing/ bushing (lower right on the picture) ive ordered a rear swinging arm bushing / bearing kit. ive not done this before - has anyone got a few minutes to outline the steps involved. once the dogbone out - I have a socket / bearing puller set to get the old bearings out. am I aiming to just remove the suspension gear with the swinging arm in situ? Or does the whole swinging arm come off. And are there tips and suggestions to make it easier ? thanks in advance !
  4. I flipped my 2011 4RT (repsol) and cracked the rear mudguard at the rear attach bolts and I’m looking for another mudguard (and decal) but can’t seem to find one. Any ideas? is it even possible to order one from Honda ? (Though I’ve no idea what the part number would be- the parts manual I have is 2017 I think) thanks in advance!
  5. Just to close the loop on this thread (with some embarrassment in my part!). i fit a new voltage regulator (and fan motor and fan blade of course) and in the end couldn’t work out why the bike would run well and I’d only get 6 volts. I could find no leaks to earth and figured the stator would work or not kind of thing (rather than put out ‘half’ volts. Si wondered if I had a measuring error. So I got a new (borrowed) multimeter and ahem.. blow me.. the system volts was 13. So my multimeter faulty ! Much head scratching caused in necessarily! thanks to those who chipped in !
  6. Thanks for your input On It. The update from my end is this.... I found the system voltage with the bike running is 6 volts. From what Oz thumper was saying, I was hoping this might explain the burnt fan motors (x2) and that the cause of the system voltage being only 6 would be the voltage regulator. The only other finding was the stator resistance was a bit higher than spec (1.5Ohme rather than 0.5-1). So I got a new (well new to me) voltage regulator and fit it today and ran the bike.... and it's STILL 6 volts. So what would explain low system voltage? I daren't fit a new fan motor if low volts is the problem and I havent found d a cause and fixed it. Any thoughts? what to do or check next? thanks
  7. I ran through the electrics check as per back of the Maintenance mannual. The resistances all seem to check out OK (Primary coil, Temp sensor, ground checks etc all ‘above and below’ the wiring harness (ie the harness checks are satis). The only real ‘finding’ is that the manual spec for the resistance checks between the three yellow stator wires (each against the others) and in fact the impulse generator wires (red and green) are 0.5-1 Ohm (at 20deg C) whilst when I checked them I was getting 1.5 Ohm approx (all of them consistent) but the day temp is perhaps 8 degrees. Not sure if the temp would explain the difference. Im hoping the explaination is (as Miss said!) a faulty regulator so Ill fit a new one (along with fan motor and fan) and see what volts I get. If still too low - perhaps call the stator into question.
  8. I’m measuring 6 volts at the fan motor supply with engine at idle. (I expected it to be high but it’s low voltage). Presumably a regulator problem ? are there any other likely causes of low system volts (BTW - earth contacts cleaned) I didnt realise Oz thumper that low voltage supply might burn the fan motor out as well as high voltage. thanks for that
  9. The fan motor is toasted - more or less siezed. When connect it to the running bike (with relay bypassed) the bike idle dips under the load and wires get hot (I pulled the bypass wire out and it burnt my little pinkies )
  10. Well, I temporarily installed (without fan fitted) and filled the rad with water so the temp sensor sensing, unpackaged the voltage regulator bundle, ran the bike, removed the fan relay, bypassed it and measured voltage at the fan supply to find it reading 6.6v. What does that mean?
  11. Thanks all three. the fan was running steadily and was free to turn (I would occasionally do so by hand to check it) even when engine warm. I had it noticed it varying with engine speed. basically on one ride today it failed and the engine overheated - I hadn’t noticed the fan wasn’t running today so the first I knew was the coolant boiled over (and of course I stopped it to let it cool). but until today, it ran normally. jonny, where is the temp sensor and how do I override it? If that’s tricky, maybe it’s easier to check voltage on the downside of the regulator somewhere?
  12. Thanks a lot Miss ! at the moment have the rad off. To check volts to fan, I guess I’d need to run it until hot enough for the temp sensor to power the fan supply (which I can do- would have to let it get hot with no rad on) or would the whole bike voltage be the same - and hence would there be an easier Vorlage supply to check whilst it’s running ? it doesn’t have lights BTW (just thinking about other easy to get to electrics)
  13. Hello All, 2011 4RT 4 months into my ownership had burnt out a fan motor (and in the process melting the central boss of the plastic fan itself). I got a new fan motor (and plastic fan blade) fit them both (spinning freely and running as it should seemingly) but after approx 15 hours riding later the new fan motor has... burnt out melting the fan centre again! Surely this cant just be bad luck can it? Why might that happen twice ? Its not catching - so I doubt thats the problem. So far as I could tell the fan would run perhaps 5 mins after a cold start and would run and stop periodically as needed. Might it be a relay or voltage regulator thing. Any thoughts gratefully received before I order new motor and fan ...again! thanks
  14. Stu, Dan ,RC Gods and Kona, Thanks for all your advice. Just to close the loop, here's what I did... Got the new part from BetaUK (£300 - gulp) and a fresh clutch case seal. Refit everything with Part manual diagrams to be sure everything going together correctly. Filled the case with Diesel (literally full), bounced it round, turned the engine over with the ignition off and drained the diesel, then standard fill with oil and this time ran / rode it for 20 mins and drained the oil before another standard fill with oil and went riding (or at least my boys did) with no problems. Prob change this oil after an hour or two. My impression is that I broke two teeth and found them pretty quickly in situ but suspect (as you said Stu) the third tooth has been gone for a while (perhaps even in previous owners time) and is either 'dust' or came out one way or another with an oil change some time back (or at least I hope it did). Anyway, everything seems to be running OK. At least I got to see the inside of my first Beta - which was pretty straightforward really so Im pleased I cut my teeth on it!! all the best. Justin
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