Make or buy a tool a tool like a ' Motion Pro Fork seal mate' cleaning tool and slide it down the gap between the seal and the chromed or NON STICK surface treated STANCHION of the leaking seal and slide it round the entire inner part of the seal and see if that stops it leaking , if it still leaks then you need to take it all apart again and this time fit new top and bottom bushes and also fit a new seal just to eliminate the possibility of the other seal that you already fitted having a problem , trust me on this I have spent my life working on bikes .cars, trucks and it could just stop you from having to strip it down a third time and so it will be worth every penny of extra expense
Thank you very much for your reply.
I see you mention the bushes, can old bushes cause the seals to leak? I guess with movement it could allow a leak, but I can't feel any play between the stancion and bushes...
The steel plates I have fitted are 1.5mm and 1.6 mm.
What do people suggest, I don't want to make the clutch too heavy but obviously need to stop it slipping. The finger height seems to be quite out of range....
Thank you for the information. I have exactly the same problem, I have replaced all o rings and bled several times with no success. I've even checked the cartridge is fully sealed by holding the floating piston and drawing down and checking the vacume holds....
Only item not changed is the 1 mm teflon glide ring...
I'm struggling to buy some though... where did you purchase it from? Thank you
And last question. Which bleed method did you find worked. I'm using the method of filling the cartridge, inserting the floating piston with the bleed screw out, push it under the oil to 60mm deep, cyling the rod to check no air left. Pushing piston to 70 mm deep. Inserting the bleed screw . Then finally rebuilding the rest of the fork with the rod held fully extended.
Thank you very much Lineaway ill give that a go.... I also will try the rocking back in second gear and kicking then from as far away from tdc as possible, (I always found tdc and kicked from there) ... Time will tell..
It's a 2009 txt pro. I have fully rebuilt the top and bottom end, new reeds, carb cleaned, pilot jet increased one size to see if that helps (it didnt), upgraded regulator and electrics from horse power ignition, just the ducati flywheel and pick up coil left, .... plug and pick up gap set at 0.6....
No throttle touched during starting as I find this makes it even harder to start...
I'm a bit blue in the face with it, just can't seem to remedy the hot start issue....
Hello, my bike runs great and is easily started when cold.... however it is very temperamental when up to temp.
Sometimes it will start second kick but quite often I might get a small backfire And then it takes alot of kicks and energy to finally get it to fire....
I have a photo from a few hours riding on a new plug, it would suggest to me the carb is a little rich... could this be my issue? If so what do people suggest adjusting...
Arnoux that is fantastic help thank you very much. I have spent quite some time searching for this information but not realising this great video exists...
Seems like I need a bent shim washer.. it makes sense now...
Marzocchi fork on 2009 txt pro, fork seals
in Gas Gas
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Thank you very much. I'll try order the bushes