garydwall

2022 jbr 300. Would anyone please have the workshop manual. Thank you in advance Gary garydwall@gmail.com

Yes thank you I have been running this cd16204, for the last 2 years. I think I may have a stator issue....

Thank you for all the reply, that has been great help

Thank you for the advice... the fan pulls dc 1.8 amps when running. I would have expected a higher current....... Would anyone know what the resistance of the fan winding should be, it's a comex fan... Thank you

Hello , My regulator gives out approx 14.8 v dc for the fan circuit. When the fan runs the voltage drops to about 9.5 v. The engine sometimes cuts out when idling and the fan comes on, it is also very very difficult to start if the fan is on. I have tested the resistance of the stator yellow to ground and I have 8 ohms. I think I'm right saying the stator should not have any connection to ground, ?? Can someone tell me what resistance I should have and on which leads, I think it's yellow and green approx 16 ohms.. does that sound right. Thanks in advance Gary

Hello, I replaced the cover 3 months ago and it is cracked again, I have read posts but am still confused why the cover cracks...... Only thing is engine can backfire sometimes when kick starting, could that do the damage?? Bart gear, bearings etc were all replaced also...., small washer fitted on kickstart shaft.... Thank you

Hello , my 09 pro is a pig to start when the fan is on. The previous owner fitted an inline stat, this stat switches on and off at 68c , 67c, so it's hysteresis is very low. I have a stat in the top of the radiator also, it switches on at 69c and off at 55c. Which stat would be better to use? Is 55 , 69 a correct running temp? Thank you Gary

Thank you very much. I'll try order the bushes

Thank you very much for your reply. I see you mention the bushes, can old bushes cause the seals to leak? I guess with movement it could allow a leak, but I can't feel any play between the stancion and bushes...

I fitted new seals and am a bit baffled. One seal is leaking. No scratches on fork leg but you can see the oil bubbling up very slowly past the seal. Seal is in the correct way, open side facing the oil.... Any suggestions greatly appreciated.. Gary

On the starting issue try this.... Don't kick it from top dead center, First put the bike in second or third and roll it forward then backwards with the clutch out. Piston is now at bottom Dead centre. Now pull the clutch in and one last roll back to fully disengage the clutch keeping the Piston at bdc. One sharp kick and your running....

Thank you lineaway, I'm a bit confused, if my clutch is slipping now, will burning it not make it worse? Would I not be better increasing the pack thickness? Thank you

Thank you. What is the recommended finger height?

Hello, I have my clutch pack at 9.74 mm for a 2009 Pro. From what I read the tolerance is 9.75 to 9.85. My finger height however is at 10.50 I find the clutch slips in 5th and 6th gear. The steel plates I have fitted are 1.5mm and 1.6 mm. What do people suggest, I don't want to make the clutch too heavy but obviously need to stop it slipping. The finger height seems to be quite out of range.... Thanks in advance. Gary

Thank you for the information. I have exactly the same problem, I have replaced all o rings and bled several times with no success. I've even checked the cartridge is fully sealed by holding the floating piston and drawing down and checking the vacume holds.... Only item not changed is the 1 mm teflon glide ring... I'm struggling to buy some though... where did you purchase it from? Thank you And last question. Which bleed method did you find worked. I'm using the method of filling the cartridge, inserting the floating piston with the bleed screw out, push it under the oil to 60mm deep, cyling the rod to check no air left. Pushing piston to 70 mm deep. Inserting the bleed screw . Then finally rebuilding the rest of the fork with the rod held fully extended. Cheers

How is the fork performing now?

Can someone please give me some advice. When I start riding the bike with the clutch free play set correctly all is well. But after a bit of riding I need to lessen the free play, the clutch is engaging too early, I turn the free play adjuster in. I have bled the clutch a few times and all is well. The clutch is newly fitted two months ago (9.7 mm of plates) I don't understand how the free play can change while riding.... Thank you Gary

What is the noticeable difference when you fixed them? Obviously no rebound clunk but does the rebound work a bit better,? Thank you

So use a flat 1 mm shim not a wave washer?

Thank you very much Lineaway ill give that a go.... I also will try the rocking back in second gear and kicking then from as far away from tdc as possible, (I always found tdc and kicked from there) ... Time will tell..

OK thank you lineaway... It's a 2009 txt pro. I have fully rebuilt the top and bottom end, new reeds, carb cleaned, pilot jet increased one size to see if that helps (it didnt), upgraded regulator and electrics from horse power ignition, just the ducati flywheel and pick up coil left, .... plug and pick up gap set at 0.6.... No throttle touched during starting as I find this makes it even harder to start... I'm a bit blue in the face with it, just can't seem to remedy the hot start issue.... Thank you

Thank you lineaway, it's an iridium plug Bpr5eix

Hello, my bike runs great and is easily started when cold.... however it is very temperamental when up to temp. Sometimes it will start second kick but quite often I might get a small backfire And then it takes alot of kicks and energy to finally get it to fire.... I have a photo from a few hours riding on a new plug, it would suggest to me the carb is a little rich... could this be my issue? If so what do people suggest adjusting... Thanks in advance Gary

I went back to the washer set up, I used some shim paper and cut out the required size... Seems to be working well....

Yes that's what I got also, a great solution for me also