garydwall

Arnoux that is fantastic help thank you very much. I have spent quite some time searching for this information but not realising this great video exists... Seems like I need a bent shim washer.. it makes sense now...

I'm struggling to figure out where the broken shim is from, it fell out when I released the sealing piston.... I've looked at some drawings but I still don't see? Any advice greatly appreciated. The shim is approx 0.1 mm shim 10mm I.d 20mm o.d.

Shady, I have just found the same issue with a broken shim, but I'm not exactly sure where mine fell out of.... Where did you get the shim in the end, I'm based in Ireland also.. Thank you

Thank you, lineaway, I replaced the main bearings recently as they were bad.... I'm having hot start issue and wonder could I hadn't some sort of coil breakdown when hot... Slightly backfire sometimes when looking for tdc... if it dusky go second kick it's a pig... Not technique, friend has same bike and it starts much easier... Any idea what resistance the stator should be?? Thank you

Hello, could someone please tell me If this looks normal,? Should the tops of the coils be worn? Also is the orientation correct? Thank you

Can someone please tell me what resistance to expect on the pick up coil fitted with the ducati system? Thank you

Hello, what's the recommended gap to flywheel please? And also spark plug gap? Could a pick up coil cause hot starting issues?? Can I buy a replacement easily? Thanks in advance. Gary

250cc , dellorto, 300 mtrs above sea level.... Thank you lineaway

Hello. Can someone please help. My 2009 starts easily from cold. However when hot it gives a little backfire when kicking and eventually starts. I've done everything to try eliminate. Carb cleaned twice, new reeds, new plug, new plug cap , adjusted fuel screw etc etc. Have a 2008 which is much easier to start.... Any suggestions much appreciated. Thank you

Hello looking for advice please. My dellorto carb is badly worn and has float issues. I have a mikuni vm 26 in the garage in a 4 stroke pitbike. Could it be re jetted to work in the gas gas txt pro (2009) Thanks in advance

OK so here's what puzzles me.... I fully stripped the rebound side. Pushed the rebound piston up and down loads in fresh air ie all the oil removed Reassembled and re built bike expecting a clunk, but nothing. All works fine ??? 😕 confused

https://forum.trials.com.au/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=9947&sid=661bd621f768b5b30df444fe29e849dc#p36121 I found some good information here. Thank you

I would say it's your compression side causing the clunk ....

Thank you very much.... Yes from what I understand you must completely dissemble to set the 160mm air gap, this needs to be done with the spring removed... Fingers crossed , I have cycled the rebound damper for and it feels OK be it a bit slow on its fastest setting... Time will tell. Thanks for the post ... Gary

Apologies I know this is most likely a stupid question... I'm changing the oil in the forks, I have started with the right side rebound leg, is there anything else I need to do other than set the correct oil height? Do I need to do anything with the damper circuit? Then I guess same question with the compression side? I have read all the posts here on the topic but am still a bit confused, I have the document from the hell team also but still don't fully understand if the complex bleeding applies to me if I'm just replacing the oil in the lowers. Thanks in advance. Gary

Hello. Can someone please tell me what temperature the stat should cut in and out at. I am using the stat in the top of the radiator but a previous owner has also fitted an inline one. My cylinder head always holds around 60 degrees c with the radiator stat. The fan is running quite a bit to hold the 60 degrees. Thank you in advance

Thank you Peter

Hello. I have recently removed this 6002 rs bearing with great difficulty.... I am now trying to install a new bearing. I have tried the heat freeze method but it won't work for this bearing. I've had the case at 130 degrees and the bearing in the freezer overnight.... I have now got to the point of heating the case and gently trying to press the bearing in. The problem is it starts to go slightly out of alignment no matter what I seem to try. I can measure 1 mm difference accross the bearing. I'm looking for some advice please 🙏 thank you very much

Thanks everyone for the advice.

Hello, I need to install my new bearings. I've watched Jim snells video which is great help. I'm just wondering when I heat the left crankcase is it ok to have the magneto seal already fitted? The seal must be fitted before the bearing. Can it withstand this temperature? Thank you very much. Gary

Hello. After installing a new driveshaft bearing I'm a little confused about the two o rings that go with the shift seal bushing. I think the skinny o ring goes inside the bushing And the thicker o ring goes over the outside of the bushing under the lip of the oil seal. Is that correct?? Sorry just can't quite remember what way it was.. Thank you in advance. Gary

Thank you very much d2w your advice is much appreciated

Hello , can someone please advise. Is it OK to replace the driveshaft bearing with a version with non metallic seals. Original bearing is a 6005zv. The version I bought is a skf 60052rsc3. The noticeable difference is the original has metal seals where my new one has rubber seals. Is it OK if I use this one and would it be a good idea to remove the rubber seal on the internal side to allow extra lubrication from the gearbox oil? Thanks in advance Gary

Thank you very much. Got bearing and seal out now... God bless blind side pullers. Cheers for the advice