Jump to content

garydwall

Members
  • Posts

    54
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by garydwall
 
 
  1. Hello, what's the recommended gap to flywheel please? And also spark plug gap? Could a pick up coil cause hot starting issues?? Can I buy a replacement easily? Thanks in advance. Gary
  2. 250cc , dellorto, 300 mtrs above sea level.... Thank you lineaway
  3. Hello. Can someone please help. My 2009 starts easily from cold. However when hot it gives a little backfire when kicking and eventually starts. I've done everything to try eliminate. Carb cleaned twice, new reeds, new plug, new plug cap , adjusted fuel screw etc etc. Have a 2008 which is much easier to start.... Any suggestions much appreciated. Thank you
  4. Hello looking for advice please. My dellorto carb is badly worn and has float issues. I have a mikuni vm 26 in the garage in a 4 stroke pitbike. Could it be re jetted to work in the gas gas txt pro (2009) Thanks in advance
  5. OK so here's what puzzles me.... I fully stripped the rebound side. Pushed the rebound piston up and down loads in fresh air ie all the oil removed Reassembled and re built bike expecting a clunk, but nothing. All works fine ??? 😕 confused
  6. https://forum.trials.com.au/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=9947&sid=661bd621f768b5b30df444fe29e849dc#p36121 I found some good information here. Thank you
  7. I would say it's your compression side causing the clunk ....
  8. Thank you very much.... Yes from what I understand you must completely dissemble to set the 160mm air gap, this needs to be done with the spring removed... Fingers crossed , I have cycled the rebound damper for and it feels OK be it a bit slow on its fastest setting... Time will tell. Thanks for the post ... Gary
  9. Apologies I know this is most likely a stupid question... I'm changing the oil in the forks, I have started with the right side rebound leg, is there anything else I need to do other than set the correct oil height? Do I need to do anything with the damper circuit? Then I guess same question with the compression side? I have read all the posts here on the topic but am still a bit confused, I have the document from the hell team also but still don't fully understand if the complex bleeding applies to me if I'm just replacing the oil in the lowers. Thanks in advance. Gary
  10. Hello. Can someone please tell me what temperature the stat should cut in and out at. I am using the stat in the top of the radiator but a previous owner has also fitted an inline one. My cylinder head always holds around 60 degrees c with the radiator stat. The fan is running quite a bit to hold the 60 degrees. Thank you in advance
  11. Hello. I have recently removed this 6002 rs bearing with great difficulty.... I am now trying to install a new bearing. I have tried the heat freeze method but it won't work for this bearing. I've had the case at 130 degrees and the bearing in the freezer overnight.... I have now got to the point of heating the case and gently trying to press the bearing in. The problem is it starts to go slightly out of alignment no matter what I seem to try. I can measure 1 mm difference accross the bearing. I'm looking for some advice please 🙏 thank you very much
  12. Hello, I need to install my new bearings. I've watched Jim snells video which is great help. I'm just wondering when I heat the left crankcase is it ok to have the magneto seal already fitted? The seal must be fitted before the bearing. Can it withstand this temperature? Thank you very much. Gary
  13. Hello. After installing a new driveshaft bearing I'm a little confused about the two o rings that go with the shift seal bushing. I think the skinny o ring goes inside the bushing And the thicker o ring goes over the outside of the bushing under the lip of the oil seal. Is that correct?? Sorry just can't quite remember what way it was.. Thank you in advance. Gary
  14. Thank you very much d2w your advice is much appreciated
  15. Hello , can someone please advise. Is it OK to replace the driveshaft bearing with a version with non metallic seals. Original bearing is a 6005zv. The version I bought is a skf 60052rsc3. The noticeable difference is the original has metal seals where my new one has rubber seals. Is it OK if I use this one and would it be a good idea to remove the rubber seal on the internal side to allow extra lubrication from the gearbox oil? Thanks in advance Gary
  16. Thank you very much. Got bearing and seal out now... God bless blind side pullers. Cheers for the advice
  17. Hello could someone please advise me. What is the best way to remove the oil seal crankshaft on the magneto side. I want to remove the crankshaft bearing to replace it. Does the seal get pushed out at the same time the bearing is pushed out? Thanks in advance. Gary
  18. Thank you both for the advice much appreciated
  19. Hello, I'm putting my 2009 engine back together. When I put the two crankcase together they won't meet even with some gentle persuasion... there's about a 5 mm gap and I don't want to force it and break something Have I to get the gears into a certain position? Or should it slide together in neutral. Is there some trick I'm missing. I've watched Jim snells video but his just tapped together effortlessly! Thanks in advance. Gary
  20. Thank you very much for the replies.... Sorry just one other thing to ask. What is the best method to remove the bearings then... thanks Gary
  21. Hello can someone please advise me. I have my engine split to replace the crankshaft bearings. The crankshaft is stuck in the flywheel side of the casing. I've tried a tap with a rubber hammer but no joy. Any suggestions greatly appreciated. See pictures Thank you very much
  22. Thank you Peter. Yes that's the kit I'm ordering the one trial bike breakers advertise on their site... Cheers
 
×
  • Create New...