Any alternatives worth using? Dextron III? Or should i just stick to the PJ1?
Personally, I would stick with the PJ1 or other proper gear oil unles for some reason you need the quicker bite of ATF, and even then not run the cheap stuff. High quality fully synthetic ATF is available. It is not inexpensive.
Do the special plugs still benefit those bikes that have a proper programable digital ignition fitted? ( the ones with a handlebar switch to change settings)
Yes they should. To put it simply, a digital ignition really just changes "when" it sparks.
Jon, while standing there last week holding my one and only fork spring in my hand while changing fork oil after a year on the latest bike,I thought about you. Polishing the springs to reduce drag and all that stuff. I looked at the spring, looked at the old oil full of metal, and said to myself, well I guess I don't need to call Jon to find out how to polish these things, DUNK, into the fresh oil it went!
I am funny in a way, as Yes I do tinker as time permits, and yes everything must work properly for the most part ur it gets under my skin. But I have found that the outcome of a given trial for me muchly depends upon which balls I wear that day!
Big balls, little balls, brass balls, titanium balls, ali balls, tungston balls and the list goes on----! I usually start out on the lightweight ali balls, the green ones, and by the end of the day I may either have the big brass ones on, or could be the little blue ones?
BTW, you need to make a point to ride Steves 250 pro at the Sooner Cup. Sweet!
I figured all this out and did the math. It costs me just as much to get a new bike every year as I spend on beer.
As I cannot afford too many bad habits, I wonder if I could become a BEER dealer in an effort to get a deal for myself and all my friends? Maybe this would get a few off that Budwiser too, just like Gassers?
Check out the service manuals listed in the sticky posted on this page.
There is a complete setup and maintenance guide available.
Like Cope said, the clutch plates will stick, however a way that works to unstick them is to put the bike in 5th gear, pull in the clutch and kick it a couple of times. This method works no matter what other people will say, it is the method that Ryan suggested to me.
Wayne
Wayne is correct, I call this method 3, Method 2 is to put it in 3rd or 4th and pull in clutch , then rock it back and furth till clutches break loose! I have had the "re stick" so always refer back to RULE#1(softest and cheapest) just to be sure! Always be sure you are at IDLE when placing in gear, and if you EVER get in a tight spot, just lay it over and get off the bike!
I say all this as I have witnessed bad situations develop as a result! Go in the RIGHT direction and be safe! This applies to ALL bikes!
There must also be a rectifier in circuit with the fan as it is a DC motor. I cannot recall the specifics, but I think you need to find the other one as well!
Ok Wayne, I want tell you about the bike you could ride here at the end of the month but instead i'll let you have a go on the 08 2.9 sitting in the garage,
before you get your 3.2. I'll line up some guys for you to ride with and I can go watch.
"I want tell you about the bike you could ride here at the end of the month "
And if I just had my Big Bore kit! You would really like it!
As soon as it happens , whip the tank off , take out air filter, take the spark plug out . put the bike in second gear, turn bike upside down . Then spin the back wheel as fast as you can. This will turn the engine over and you will observe water coming out of plug hole ,keep spinning until NO Water comes out of plug hole . Reassemble bike without air filter ,try to dry inside of airbox if possible. full choke kick oir push start bike . Run for an hour or so . When home strip carb and dry air filter
I have done that, more times than I like to tell
I am not inclined to do much pushing to get home, so anything that washes thorugh the air filter will likely either find its own way out or I will be doing some rebuilding, later on! Trailside method is all I have ever used, although I have pulled the tops and flushed with Kero later!
A lot of techs out there have played with friction modifier in their tcases to try and get awd shudders to diminish. They end up taking out clutches or causing chatters and engagement periods to be more harsh. My roommate tried a few different mixtures and ended up with no clutch plates after a while. He finished his experiment by getting a new clutch and tightening the chain using the specified oil and wala it worked like a champ.
Becareful because this might make a good day of practice a long day of walking around. There is a lot of science in those fluids. Besides i thought that sherco clutches were flawless?
--Biff
I agree and have been skiddish about trying thak Dana lube for reasons stated, now that x-fer case fluid, pre mixed for smooth progression? Sounds of interist and I have lots of it! One would presume that it may be more better than standard motor oil?
Being no Gasser expert, all I can say is that since they came out with the lighter spring plate a couple years back, I have ventured out and taken a few spins on various bikes, 125, 200 250 and 280. Seems like every one is different and much depends upon how they were set up at the factory. Some great, some stiff? I do not understand them totally, just seems some need a bit of TLC and fluid is not going to do it! I hope Stoodly has all that figured out?
Not sure where you are located, but I would presume in the states, since you list a Harley and don't spell funny!
Mix oil, if nothing else, go to the Yamaha shop and get a small bottle of Yamalube 2R, made by Torco, it is a simi-synth but is fine. I prefer the Maxima K2 that RYP sells.
The Maxima MTF is good too, but if you are going to run ATF, at least go to the auto parts store and get the Mobile 1 synthetic or see if they have Valvoline 10-30or 10-40 synthetic motor oil for better clutch progression. Or go to the Chevy house and see if they have the Allison C-4 tranny juice. I have never had any problem with these on the Sureflex clutch, but ATF might be a bit grabbier. Don't bet on anything preventing a sticky clutch after sitting. Just be sure you are pointed at something CHEAP and SOFT when you first put them into gear!
Chains, seems like I recall about 101 with the half link which you will need for that model. You will need to cut down a 103 link chain and figure accordingly I think. Someone may know something otherwise?
The rear mudguard should have a foil backed thermal shield near the muff. If it is not there, hard running and high temps will definately melt the plastic!
ALWAYS remove air filter and inspect airbox lower part for water entry after washing bike! Or it is just about as easy to simply remove mudguard and tank and filter, plug airbox and exhaust, wash the helofit and reassemble! Disassemble and thoroughly wash the airbox and clean the carby including the filter screen on the banjo inlet initally! This will give you a good start!
Bite the bullet and go ahead and disassemble , totally clean and inspect and overpack the rear linkage with Maxima waterproof grease or = ! There should be next to NO free play in the linkage when feeling the swingarm with the bike on a support!
Clean and inspect the steering head bearings, pack wheel bearings and lube axles and ck rear brake pedal pivot bearing while you are at it! All bolts get a bit of anti sieze!
Be sure you do not get trapped water and corrosion in the plastic mag cover and treat with WD-40 or something! Drill a 1/16 drain hole in the bottom of the cover if you are gathering water.
The stock spring will work, but I would take the static sag to near zero at your weight. 0-10mm. If the shock is not leaking, run it! Unless you just want to spend a lot!
If the muff is too raspy sounding, replace it!
Learn to ride with one finger covering front brake and clutch. Shortie(two finger) levers are more progressive due to a longer pivot point, mid length(3 finger levers) are a bit quicker from the sweet spot on the clutch side! Only use 1 finger on either!
I've read a few posts in this topic and something I saw come up often was dealers having new bikes on the floor ready to sell, and the reply was usually that it wasn't affordable. At our local bike shop (bicycle) they stock at least ten road and mountain bikes costing more than twleve thousand dollars, the most is I think 15,500, and the rest anywhere from 2-6,000. I understand that having a few extra trials bikes on hand is a lot of money to put out in hopes you'll sell them soon, but I'm just curious, how can the bicycle shop afford to have all the bikes I mentioned? I'm sure theres more interest in the sport of bicycling than there is in trials, but the numbers don't really seem to add up to me.
(Just for the record, they weren't all american made)
Coming from Texas, I think someone in there must be either very wealthy, very gay or very hard core to want pedal power that costs more than a car! Maybe a combo, woud'nt that be exciting! And maybe the same goes for the salesman! (person)
The resistor, I believe just cuts down RFI. On yamaha's for the last ten years, running a non resistor can cause a ignition malfunction. Once stopped will crank up and run fine. With the close proximity of the ignition control boxes, I would say the resistor would be cheap insurance.
I am running the BPR5EIX. I have not fouled a plug in 2 years. My son has fouled one on his beta 80 in a year and a half.
Great oils are created. You can run auto trans oil or whatever, and I'm sure you will save a couple of bucks. While you are at walmart why don't you pick up some mixing oil? It is rated the same.
Maybe thats why your tushy is sensitive, its been tight for so long.
It is pretty well established that some systems and manufacturers require resistor type plugs to protect their systems from secondary spikes, others do not and to me and my simple logic, the added electrical resistance is nothing but an additional obsticle for the already weak system to overcome and if not neccessary, probably not in the best interist of providing the goal of igniting fuel! The available voltage and the compression ratio will be the limiting factors upon just how well you can reliably perform this act at a given gap of the plug!
Secondly, I doubt you save any money running a top performing fully synthetic ATF and would not recommend using anything less. Point being that you may screw yourself in the process in terms of clutch feel and such.
As an example, several years ago I remember the factory frame stickers on the Sherco saying "Sherco recomenda Valvoline"
Now this is a Sureflex clutch in a Sherco and the only factory spec was and still is 10-40 as best I recall. Over time the sticker has changed to a simple Ipone logo, but the clutch has not changed. Now I ask you , what the hell does all that mean?
I can tell you that at that time I ran Valvoline synthetic motor oil with no problems and possibly better feel than the new bikes, once again depending upon what you want and considering the fact that they have changed to the mid length levers which have a different and shorter "sweet spot'! It all comes into play here!
First; Spark.... Have you ever measured dwell off of your coil with a scope? Come on now i know where you work and some of your resume. Change plugs look at dwell. Change mixture look at dwell. Increase and decrease gap look at dwell. Get out your gap spark tester and measure. (doubt you have room for that on a sherco but its a thought) You bring up a good point here and i think you might find some answers in dwell. Tell ya what. This weekend I will grab one of our IDS's and a VMM here from fomoco and take some screen shots of what i have on my 04 gg. I am not sure if you have capability of something similar but this is interesting to know whats going on in there.
Second; friction modifiers... My roommate worked very closely with borg warner with their torque on demand system. You guys have a similar system on jeep. He has a montesa which are known for their clutch drag. As it turns out chain tension and that really expensive stuff was the answer to his problems. I use straight dexron and change it ever 8 hours or so of ride time. One night before an event i needed a quart and some turbo blue for the bike. I thought i would kill 2 birds with one stone and picked up a quart at the station. When i got home i looked at the bottle and i kid you not it stated "Almedes Oil Company" and it had no sae markings or anything. Due to my lazyness i threw her in so i wouldnt have to make two trips. Smelled like 80-90gls, was red, poured like 30 weight.... In the morning i drained it in fear of the unknown. Becarefull because the sulfer in friction modifiers (such as dana 60 70 or 80 additives) can set permanently in clutches and cause too much slip and its hard to get it out of the fibers once its set in.
I am part of the fuel injection generation so i would be real interested to hear the carb setup edition.
I am going home to shovel some beautiful michigan snow now.
--Biff
Biff brings up good points here!
Dwell? Burn time? Squiggly line theory? Good god man, we have not had O-scopes that worked on anything in the field in at least 15 years with COP! Theory is no longer tought or used! We have on board computers nowadays that tell everything we never wanted to know and nothing we do!(Refer to recent discussion with zone tech rep on same topic) Secondary problems that drive things crazy due to feedback cannot be viewed or monitored! At least not by anyone that has to try to actually fix them!
Good idea though if you have something that will work on yours and ZIPPYS !
"My roommate worked very closely with borg warner with their torque on demand system. You guys have a similar system on jeep. He has a montesa which are known for their clutch drag. As it turns out chain tension and that really expensive stuff was the answer to his problems."
I am not quite sure what you are saying here, is he using the transfer case fluid? or something? And yes, we have different fluids that rely upon progressive or modulated clutches to apply power(hopefully smoothly) and I am not sure what additive packages they use. There could be a LOT of experimentation there, more than I would like!
Clutch action is a very personal subject as well. I think it basically falls into two classes of riders.
Those that want and need smooth progressive action and those who want and need things to happen NOW!
And the two should not be confused! I think there will allways be a tradeoff there.
Point being that those that may run cheap ATF are screwing themselves!
Not sure who has the Mont down there, but I would consider it the most gentile of the lot with good reliability unless the Beta is a 250, probably not.
The last of the 2T Monts is a well refined product and if you can find a nice one you are in luck! It is like a big girl, that little extra weight just provides comfort! And if you have met James W. he can take good care of you!
Oh crap! Its going to be a hard landing! How do you do that? Obviously before the the computers would let you hit the "up" switch while still showing airspeed! I think it may be time to "punch out"!
At the risk of feeling like Rappers here, taking his weekly flogging for his opinions, I am going to throw out a few things that may or may not draw opinions from others that may be interisted. As the title states, much of this is "seat of the pants" as I am not fortunate enough to have a DYNO sitting in the shed to prove or disprove anything! Some of this would need "Myth Busters" money to prove or disprove!
Firstly, Spark Plugs make a difference!
I believe they do! Many bikes run the standard plug such as a BP5ES closed down to as little as .020 or .5mm in an effort to accomodate the low power ignition systems on most bikes. You simply have to take advantage of what is there I think!
I have run the BP5EVX plug for several years now OPENED UP, taking advantage of its superior electrical properties and running at .027-.028(.7mm) providing better electrical flamefront (ignition) making for easier starting, better low end power and less fouling problems. I have even taken these plugs from bike to bike over the years without normal replacement. Yes they cost more! And I am not quite sure about the Irridium plug as it has a resistor which may defeat some of the electrical properties of the non resistor VX, but I do believe you could run it at .6mm at least with no problems.
Secondly, Addition of small quantities of Acetone to fuel to improve atomization.
You need to get on the net and do your own research on this. It is a topic upon itself, but I think it works in all vehicles. Maybe something to consider? I am somewhat conservative on these issues myself. There is much info out there! All I can say is that I have done it for the last couple years without problem. Seems to work!
Thirdly, Running ATF in a standard clutch and gearbox!
This is a topic which may vary by bike, but there are two things I can state with reasonable certainty!
1- the clutches in any automatic transmission are not designed to slip(much) or they will burn up! Or the oil will burn! Therefore you will get more bite! Good for some, not for others!
2- The premium ATF these days is that fully synthetic offered for Allison C-4 trannys! If it does not meet that spec, I would not use it! It is good stuff, but I am not sure it is great for all. A more common gearbox oil may provide better progression in the clutch feel! I am currently considering doing some experiments using friction modifiers in the ATF to "fine tune" to taste! Anyone done this?
Seems as though most of the testing on this stuff is "seat of the pants", I like to experiment a bit, but still remain conservative and go with what works and is proven. But at the same time it seems some of the folks around are soo hard headed they would not consider doing anything different and many still run bean oil at 40:1.
That should do for now, next I'll start up on Carbs!
Hey Greg, I'm no expert on the beta, but I think you can seal kits from Komer at the Tryals Shop pretty cheap as you may need them. There is a link from the www.trialscomp site if you cannot find it. (Cheers and have fun, run 80:1) synthetic or the Yamalube 2R simi(made by Torco) if you cannot find anything else handy. I prefer Maxima K2 !!!
Works great at home with the high speed fiber connect.
At work, the seemingly overloaded T1 line can be a bit sluggish, but I doubt that is the fault of the server, do not know when you get into the intricate workings of it all.
Pj1 Gear Oil Should I Swop To Another
in Sherco
Posted
Personally, I would stick with the PJ1 or other proper gear oil unles for some reason you need the quicker bite of ATF, and even then not run the cheap stuff. High quality fully synthetic ATF is available. It is not inexpensive.