I have never had to change one, yet the same mystery has puzzled me!
It only makes logical sense that the shock end must unscrew from the body which would require a strap wrench or something to hold the body while using a rod as a lever through the eye to turn it.
Makes sense, but I have not tried it and have no idea how much torque would be required even if I am correct!
Hopefully some others can help shed some light on this!
Have already bought many many parts my 2000 is going to run just like ...........well, a rebuilt 2000.
I never knew you were high enough in the organization to have such a great amount of power.
Nothing wrong with a good 2000 model! Sweet bike!
And NO, I may not, but I do encourage all to support your local dealers and RYP if you do not have someone local that you know and trust. Most of these guys work their tails off. That goes for all brands, as they are all good!
I just try to point folks in the right direction! BTW, I was scorned by wifey last night for getting home late! When I told her I just needed to enjoy some quiet time after work looking up and trying to verify a few torque specs for Zippy, she totally did'nt understand! Oh well! You see I also have all these reference charts for comparitive bolt specs and such. Nevermind, just go with those and you should be fine!
Has anybody checked out on a dyno the difference between low octane fuels and high ones on a trials engine?
I heard of an incident at the Goodwood Festival a couple of years ago with BP when they tested two Saabs on a rolling road and the lower octane fuel made more bhp on a standard Vauhall 9-3 turbo... Oh sorry Saab 9-3 turbo
Something to do with ethanol being used to get RON up but having less enegy than petrol.... anyway they swapped the cars over on the dyno's, then the fuel in the cars and found out the lower RON fuel made more peak power on these Vauxhall Vectras... erm Saab 9-3 turbos
So unless the ethanol os really required to stop the engine 'knocking' its borrix off then I wonder if there is an element of p155ing into the wind by going for high RON tesco pump 99 (I'll have a 99 with the two flakes please plus a bit of diesel and other unidentified fluids... thanks!. Any Raspberry Sauce?)
I told you Rosey was a bright lad, yes, I believe there was a similar study done sometime back by one young Bechard lad that yielded similar results. Bit of a science project, yet not sure how scientificly it was done. Yet I tend to agree with the results!
Hey all you very knowledgable Sherco guys, HEY COPIE!!
I am rebuilding my 2000 2.9 and am unable to find the torque specs for:
6 clutch spring bolts
primary gear? (it's on the crank and connects with clutch housing)
Clutch nut
Case bolts
clutch cover bolts
I am pretty sure that I have the spec for the flywheel, cylinder base nuts and head nuts from the "Wayne's Guides"
If I forgot anything else just throw them in your response
Thanks
Gee Zipper, let's see, would you like all that on NM, Ft/lb, or In/lb?
How shouyld I know, I just buy a new one every year or two?
AND, as you probably don't have the proper holding fixtures for the crank and clutch you will have a difficult time holding anything so you should have used a dremel with a mini cutoff wheel to mark the nuts and shafts so you can just use a 3/8 impact to zip them off and back on to where they were or slightly beyond on the crank and clutch and just tighten the case bolts with a 1/4in ratchet.
Yet I digress, and did my best to look up this crap. Just for you!
Flywheel nut and primary drive gear 73.2ft/lb
Clutch nut 45ft/lb
Case bolts(6mm), cyl head, 88in/lb
Cyl base nuts(8mm) 195in/lb-16ft/lb
Clutch cover/ water pump cover(5mm)bolts 48-55 in/lb
Plastic ignition cover, just past snug!
I would add that along with crank bearings and seals, you should inspect the water pump shaft and replace the shaft if grooved, along with the seals.
Anyway, that is what I came up with, now you can call RYP to verify when you order your parts and correct me if I am incorrect!
No immediate need to change reeds, I like the Boyesens, smoother off the bottom
2-3 turns out on the screw, adj as ness.
Try a BP5EVX gapped at .027, bit easier starting anl better low rev performance for both bikes, or you can go with the irridium, but I would keep the gap back to .025 as it is a resistor plug.
80:1 full synthetic Maxima K2 works for the US guys, your mileage may vary.
I ran the Kiehin briefly on the '07, but went back.
They are powerfun, yet can be finicky!
45/125 on the jets seems a good start, others may differ
JJH needle in mid groove
2-3 turns on the screw
They may all be a pig to start when the temps are down. One old trick is to tip the bike fully over on its left side to the ground. This (hopefully) spills a bit of fuel into the carb helping to prime things.
Just because it has greater resistance to detonation(higher octane) does not neccessarily mean that it will run better or perform well in a motor not designed to use it! It may actually cost you power as it does not ignite or burn as redily under those circumstances. It may smooth your motor because of power loss though!
Lead(TEL) does nothing for a 2T except possibly help foul sparkies with residue! And create more on the piston! And in the exhaust!
"seriously tho, techron doesnt really clean up on carbon emissions and as for eradacating carbon build up........nothing will beat a scraper and cleaning fluid"
It has been proven to work in auto engines for years now, go scrape the valves and pistons on your car!
So to confirm I should be putting 385cc in the left leg and 370cc in the right for an 06 bike?
Oh and I take it the left and right is from when im off the back facing the front?
It is listed on the RYP sist under service manuals and other info:
Oil types and levels for the 2006 trials models Paioli front forks
Oil level on right leg: 60mm With forks at bottom Quantity: 370 +/- 4cc Oil level on left leg: 110mm With forks at bottom and without spring Quantity: 385+/- 4 cc Oil type Idemitsu O J RACING TYPE 01 Viscosity at 40
Well, Mr (i change my underpants every day at noon so i don't get skidmarks), since you have done it soo many times, WTF do you do? Pump THIS for about 40 min.!
I'm trying to give this guy a clue here!
PS, He is a friggin BETA driving convert(same forks)and wears itialian undies now!
I could go on about this for hours but it it too late tonight, none of the old school methods cleared out blocked EGR passages and still will not!
My experience leads me to believe that this Techron stuff will tend to break down just about any fuel residue or carbon that it comes in contact with over time. That includes the exhaust pipe and muffler in a 2T, as there is a fair amount of unburned stuff going downstream. The point here being to keep things flowing! That is the theory, anyway!
Although the added 2T OILS CAN BE A CHALLENGE, I can say that headpipe removal and inspection after running the Maxima K2 all year is good! Next to no hard carbon on the piston and first part of the header pipe, a bit of buildup further down and into the muff front section, but not bad. Ant that is where some of these things plug up completely as things go.
And yes, more about the specific concentration of this stuff than anything. A large dose, as in the Mopar combustion chamber cleaner can have massive effects! A small dose, such as what comes mixed in their fuel, may have little effect aginst the 2T oils residue which it was not designed to compete with, but a bit more, which would keep things in motion, mat just do the trick!
The label on the bottle does say "Not recommended for air cooled two cycle engines!" Now I am worried about my seals!
There have been several posts on this in the past and I have made inquries but have not done them yet. My '07 is probably due after riding all year, yet I procrastinate.
Firstly, the quantities listed are supposedly correct at 385cc left, and 370cc right. The problem is getting all the old oil out!
These measures should yield you a oil level measurement from top of tube with left spring removed of L 110mm, R 60mm.
Some have said to remove the the cartrage from the right fork in order to pump it to remove all the oil.
An inquery to RYP on the subject just said to pump the fork up and down for 20 min. to do the same, then pump another 20 min after replenishing oil to remove air.
My theory is a bit different, such as remove caps and spring, ck measured oil height, drain out bottom while measuring what came out. Put back what came out then pump forks to remove air and verify oil height prior to capping off!
I really do not care if it all comes out! Much like servicing an automatic transmission, you never get it all out, just want to freshen it up! All is good in the hood and I am not going to mess around for hours on end with such a trivial issue!!
All I can tell you is that airboxes are easy, a little heat will make it fit like a glove!
Muffs are a different story! I only ever replaced one and had similar problems. Had to knock the frame tabs a bit with a hammer and knock the rear down a bit using a rubber mallot! The thing will flex a bit, but use caution! If you are just unsure, see if you can exchange one off another bike to see if it is just THAT muff. If so, send it back!
Pump THIS for about 40 min.!
Non Starting/pinking/carb Settings
in Sherco
Posted
Sorry, I just seen this, but my math suggests 5000cc of petrol / 80 cc= 62.5 cc of oil per 5 L!