diagnosis

Hi Konrad, I had a similar issue with my Ohtokc Ignition for my TY175. It had spark, and would run, and after getting the timing set, put everything back together thinking it was fine, then I couldn't get it started for the life of me. I thought the maybe the kill switch was faulty, maybe I didn't secure a wire, or pinched and shorted it, nothing made sense. Pulled it all back apart, and couldn't find anything abnormal initially..... I checked the solder points on the Ohtokc ignition coil, and both were cold joints, and the lower had separated completely. I'm not sure if this may be your issue, but I ended up desoldering them completely, and redoing the connections. It's been great ever since. Not saying this is your issue, but may want to double check the connections for the same problem. There was a lot of other fiddling I had to do with my Ohtokc to get it to fit right, and work properly. The price point is very tempting, but it definitely wasn't a straight forward install. (Imgur decided to dump all the photos again. ugh.) Detail of where the cold joints were: Wiring diagram I was sent after purchasing the kit. Again, TY175 specific, not sure if it will help you:

Sorry to bring this back from the dead, but was there any luck in finding a replacement strap for these boots? Mine unfortunately lost the battle today.

And another month or so later…. Exiting from a section at a trial last weekend; This build has turned out better than expected and am really happy with the results… so far!

I appreciate your concern, but have absolutely no intention to mass produce or profit off of the WES design. To be completely honest, after compiling materials and factoring in the time, it probably would have been cheaper to just buy a system….. I feel like this is something I’ve mumbled to myself quite a few times during this project.

I've recently borrowed a WES, 2 in 1 system from a friend to see how they were made, and the secrets they held. Turned out it seems relatively 'easy' to make (as long as you have $10k in fab equipment at the ready!) Going to fab up a short pipe and a new exhaust similar to the Wes, and really looking forward to the project. Cant wait to see how all the work pans out!

A couple of months later……

I've recently picked a second TY175 (technically third...) to beat around on in the upcoming vintage trial series. It's been a fun process, trying to keep the build on a 'budget', which is quickly turning into a money pit!. I'm still enjoying it, and can't wait to ride this season.

Sorry for the late reply. I think I found the parts catalogue, where I found that image, on the Beamish Owners club website. It’s a great resource. I think on the Silver engine 74/75 exacta, it’s on the inside unfortunately. I may tackle this over the winter, as the fall has been way too nice to put them away yet! edit: link to the main parts page; https://www.beamishownersclub.com/parts-books Link directly to the page I referenced; https://www.beamishownersclub.com/_files/ugd/3a48b1_b4c5488ed747422d9c1fa79664e83f34.pdf

Using the old sprocket was so close, but the sprocket hardware was rubbing on the drive side of the swingarm, on the tubing just in front of the drop out. Could be slight differences in the build, spacers, or hardware that caused the issue for me, and not on your RL.

I was planning on doing the seals as well on my RL250, thinking it’s the same as the Yamaha, but unfortunately splitting the cases seems to be the only solution. You can see the seal (#17) behind the bearing in the diagram below. (sorry about the poor image quality, the size limit was only 80kb 🤷)

Thanks for the heads up! I ended up using a 5mm (3/16”) spacer. I first tried cutting up the original sprocket to use as the spacer, but it was too wide, causing the hardware lock washers to rub on the frame. Other than that, the JT 809.54 rear sprocket fits well.

I’ve yet to contact them regarding the guard, but once the suspension is loaded while riding it, the rubbing doesn’t seem to be a problem, thanks for the heads up though! I made a skid plate for the RL today, and took it for a ride around the shop for the second time since I’ve owned it. It feels really nice, although longer than I initially remembered. Adjusting the bars back should solve that issue. There are still a few things on the to-do list, but I’m almost ready to hand the kill switch over to my Dad. - There is a carb leak, I’m guessing around the bowl gasket. I cut a new one out today, as the old one was cracked and no longer working either, but didn’t seem to solve the problem. I’m considering just grabbing an OKO kit from Midwest Atlantic Trials, as the one I bought for my TY175 works flawlessly so far, and is priced reasonably. - Seems like there is excessive smoke at startup until it’s fully warmed up, then it’s tolerable. I’m guessing crank seal? It’s fresh 90octane at 50-1 with synthetic oil mix. - Still want to paint and finish tank ‘properly’. It’s just been spraybombed with white Tremclad, and isn’t fuel resistant. I have decals being made, so once they arrive I’ll focus on that. - The kickstart lever is incredibly worn and flops like crazy. I tried building up the stops with weld, but that didn’t help at all. Are there any other Suzuki’s that shared this kickstart design that could be swapped over? Again, I appreciate all the feedback, and suggestions, this bike is a bit of a mystery to me, but seems to be coming together better than I expected. 🍻 Pics from today:

After fitting the longer Betor rear shocks, I've run into a small problem.... the chain rubs on the top of the swingarm pivot. I've put a rubber swingarm protector from a Yamaha TY175 in place, to act as a rub block, but was wondering if there are any other solutions, or a Suzuki specific part that solves this issue?

Good eye Lemur, it is in fact a TY250 alloy tank. I intend to make a tank for it at some point, maybe similar to a Sammy Miller style Yamaha, or the Holtworks RL250 version. Hopefully the gearing works out, as teamferret mentioned, I have installed 360mm Betor rear shocks as the originals were blown. This is the current state, as of this afternoon. I still plan on filling some dents in the tank, repainting, and adding a 2k clear, lengthening the kickstand, and replacing the rear brake cable, but otherwise, I’m pretty happy with it!

Hi Lemur, thanks for the reply! I was Googling around earlier and came across a post from the Trials Austrailia forum, regarding the rear sprocket, and the 75-77 RM125 shares the same pattern, which is a great starting point in finding another 'budget' rear sprocket. I haven't really ridden it myself other than around the parking lot after picking it up from the previous owner, so was intending to use the original 54/15 gearing just for something to replace the completely worn out stock sprockets and chain. I'm also slightly tempted to steepen the head angle by a few degrees, hopefully to improve the slow steering. It's a little nervewracking cutting into a perfectly good frame though! Edit: Ended up ordering a JT sprocket set, and new chain this afternoon. I went with a 54t rear (part no. JTR 809.54) and a 14t front (part no. JTF1559.14), mainly due to availability and budget. The kit cost just over $84 Canadian, which isn't bad, but will still have to make a 5mm spacer..... I'll let you know how it goes!

I’ve recently picked up another project, a 1975 Suzuki RL250 Exacta, which seems to run well, but is in need of some cosmetic work, and some routine maintenance done, such as brake cables and chain/sprockets replaced. The intention is to give it to my Father once it’s sorted, so we can ride together, but want to make sure it’s sound before he gets on. One question that seems to be eluding me is an aftermarket sprocket. I’ve seen the Talon kits available on eBay, and it seems that RL250.com and Beamish Owners Club offers kits as well, but was wondering what other Suzuki models share the same rear sprocket bolt pattern, as well as alternatives for the front sprocket? Edit: Another question, has anyone used a Venhill rear brake cable, and any idea what the correct part no. may be? Any help would be appreciated! Just after I picked it up: It’s current state:

Well, I couldn’t have asked for a more definitive answer! (No pun intended 😆) Thank you fourex!

I was wondering if anyone could help ID a pair of handlebars that came on my Yamaha TY175 when I purchased it. I’ve recently swapped to an OEM set, but curious about the old ones. They have a yellow zinc plate finish. It’s been suggested they may be Bernie Schrieber, or Answer handlebars possibly, but there were no identifying marks other than sticker residue, left over. A photo on the bike just after I picked it up. Mainly just personal curiosity as to what they may have been. Thanks!

Perfect, thanks Tony! I did replace the seals earlier this year, but have a set of the Viton seals as well, which will be installed when I finally get to it. Looking forward to seeing the progress on your restoration when you have time! If I remember correctly, the decals came from MBX Graphics in the UK (I’ll double check my emails if you’re interested), and they were a good replacement for the missing and mangled decals on mine. I picked up a new 185mm NG front brake disk (labeled GasGas, but identical to the Sherco), to replace the worn 173mm front disc originally fitted to the ST80, with the 33mm front forks. There didn’t seem to be any options for this size, and the new disc was cheap enough to take the risk to try and make it work. Pic below of the old disc over the new. I’ve had an old manual milling machine collecting dust at my shop that was inherited by my partner. It needed a plug and some minor repairs, so once sorted decided this was the perfect project to learn the basics. I designed and 3D printed a mock-up of the bracket, to test fit the caliper and make sure the dimensions worked, then used that print to base the aluminum bracket on, as seen below. Milling the aluminum adapter was like a dangerous version of etch-a-sketch, but it somehow worked out exactly as planned over all I moved the caliper 6mm further out from the existing location It works quite well, but I’m sure once the caliper and master has been rebuilt, along with a new brake hose with the appropriate banjo angle, it will be more brake than I’ll ever need! Thanks for reading, and have a great weekend! 🍻

Sorry for the late reply, and I really appreciate the detailed response! I never even thought it may be an issue of the exhaust catching fire with extended rides, and seeing as I'm considering plating my TY for short trips around town, that would not be ideal. Quieting it down a little may be more beneficial with just adding the silencer section, as opposed to a full exhaust. My current setup has what I believe feetupfun has described, is the 'competition' rear section, the round muffler with the removable, repackable, domed tip. It is very raspy, and is the reason I was asking about replacing it with a WES system, as there doesn't seem to be a lot of options other than that.

Hi. I have been eyeing the WES exhaust systems, both the single unit to replace the stock silencer, the two piece mid section with separate silencer, or just the silencer I was wondering the benefits of the different systems, and other than being much lighter, are there differences internally from the OEM muffler? Does the replacement muffler noticeably quiet the system down? Is a new exhaust required as well to fit the new system? Sorry for the basic questions, but I’ve seen a lot of them fitted to TY’s but was wondering if they really made a big difference TIA! 🍻

Tony, thanks again for the informative reply, I appreciate the advice, and will try that trick to push the pistons out as far as possible. I received the latest SplatShop order yesterday, so now have all the parts for the front brake rebuild, digging into the bottom end, plus some cosmetic upgrades to appease the instant satisfaction department. I plan to split the bottom case to replace the main bearings, and give everything a once over. There is a bit of metallic debris in the gear oil, not sure if it would be clutch, bearing, or something else, so hoping to sort that mystery out. For reassembly, should I use some sealant along with the gasket between the two halves, something like Hylomar spray?

Hi Tony, thanks for the reply! I dug into the front brake a little more this week, as I received a new hose to replace the old linked line. There is very minor seepage around the pistons, so will have to get a kit anyways. The old pads were completely worn out and whatever material was left had been saturated with fork oil from blown seals. The pads that are currently on there are $5 AliExpress specials, that are a stand-in until I managed to figure out all the leaks. The last thing I wanted to do was put a brand new set of Galfers in, only to drown in a bath of brake fluid. I’ll order the kit this week, along with a reputable set of pads. I replaced the ignition cover with a newer Sherco model, after trimming, it did fit quite well. I added the oem chain ‘guard’ that screws into the chain guide as well. The old integrated guard was like a proper ‘Cup’ where this thing adds about as much protection as a ‘G-string’. I’ll take a look at the shorter lever that you mentioned. It would be so much easier for timing changes and checking for moisture without trying to fiddle around with the lever pinch bolt, and removing the chain. 🍻

If there's nothing available through a vendor, or perhaps everyones favourite 'auction' site, as turbofurball suggested, it wouldn't be too hard to have one made as there's not much to them. If you were local to me, it would cost you a 12 pack, plus materials to fab up something, but unfortunately the Atlantic Ocean is between us. You must know someone that would love a little project like this to help out a fellow vintage bike nut.

The caliper seems to be in good shape, and the exposed piston (2mm or so) looks to be in good condition, and there isn’t any noticeable damage or corrosion. Kinda stumped as to why they wouldn’t pop under air pressure.