Dude, you've missed the point, forget the plugs at mo, it's the insert I'm asking about, I have two short plugs (seems correct small ones) but the one in it is a long reach, why? is my insert different or incorrectly made?
Anyone have an answer, I think Konrad seems to get it, but still not overly clear!
You can cut it down on a lathe or get the correct insert . I went threw this. You can contact Jack's cycles in Maine USA he will sell you the right one
I found these Zeta levers The wife and I love these very adjustable they spring forwards to avoid braking them the machine work are excellent Do research on were to buy them
I found these Zeta levers The wife and I love these very adjustable they spring forwards to avoid braking them the machine work are excellent Do research on were to buy them
I have found that the TRS uses the same clutch plates and Belville spring as Gasgas I took the belville spring and made it thinner and it made a huge difference now its smooth like my old Gasgas
Update on my post re my TRS starter mechanism making a loud knock as it comes to a stop.
Forum advice (thank you, everybody!) suggested replacing the sprag (non-return/ freewheel) bearing which was supplied promptly by Steve Saunders SXS in Gloucestershire.
The fault which develops is that the spring holding the pawls in the race stretches. A great shame that this design has not been improved and also that you cannot buy just the spring – the bearing and pawls are still perfect with no sign of wear or stress.
However what was not mentioned in the advice was that two of the pawls escaped from the bearing race whilst in transit and my ageing eyesight failed to detect that each pawl has striations on the outer surface that all need to face in the same direction – otherwise the bearing will grip in both directions, where it should only grip when rotated anti-clockwise.
It took my son-in-law’s keen eyes to spot my error and it would have been a lot easier had I known what to look for in the first place.
Hope this post might help somebody else in the future.
This will take a crap if you pop the clutch to turn off the motor . It's a one way bearing it does not like going backwards . Pull the lanyard to turn it off
Could try a larger bore master cylinder - maybe off a road/trail bike model. That will make you squeeze the lever a bit harder to lock the brake...........
I grooved the pads I will see how they do this weekend
I like the Galfer red ones, what pads are you running now? If my brakes act up I often find it is the wheel bearings that are the source of problems, make sure it's not just that 👍
How you have your levers setup can make a huge difference.
... and how many fingers are you using now, should be 1 or you will always grab way too much front brake.
... and is that the brake pad model with no mounting hole in it?
Stock pads wheel bearings are good I use one finger in the crotch on the lever .
Pack thickness effects the weight of the clutch. Maybe not four finger weight but ive certainly had gg clutches change from 1 to 2 finger weights solely due to pack thickness. Or more specifically, finger height
Rejet Carburetor on a 300 R
in TRS
Posted
My bike does not ping anymore at mid throttle and it revs clean all the way threw the RPM range and over rev
I let a Vertigo rider try it He gave it a two thumbs up. It runs like my EFI