Well, I changed the thermostat and the fan still runs as much as it did before. I would estimate it runs 60-70% of the time. It might be normal for it to run that much. I'll keep riding the bike for now.
I recently noticed that the fan on my 2007 TXTPro 300 is running almost continuously. It shuts off on occasion, but is running more than it used to. The bike doesn't overheat though. What do you guys think the problem might be ? Thermostat or water pump ?
I'd like to know how long it takes as an average to master balancing.
I've been riding trials for two years and finally decided to work on my balance. I've been practicing pretty much everyday for a month, but I'm going nowhere fast.
I finally took the engine out of the frame and had the transmission serviced.
However, I can't install the engine mounting bolts. The swing arm bolt and the front bolt go in without problems, but the bolt under the engine is misaligned by about 1mm and won't get through. I'm thinking to enlarge the tab holes by that much to fit the bolt through.What do you guys think, should I do this ?
OK, I got it out. I used a somewhat different approach. I cut the head of the longest bolt I could find with the same threads and used that to punch out the swing arm bolt.
I'm trying to remove the engine from the bike and to do so I need to remove the swing arm bolt. I've loosened the 2 little allen bolts, but the swing arm bolt is in there solid. Is there a trick to remove that bolt ? I'm afraid to punch it out from the other end and ruin the threads.
One more things. Does anyone know the torque specifications for the cylinder bolts and head bolts ? I can't find anywhere how tight they should be. I'm using 10 lbs/in for now.
Is there a trick to install the engine mounting bolts ?
After replacing the piston, rings, and installing the cylinder the engine mounting points are not aligned. I can't even bolt on the frame down tubes. It seems to me the only way to do it is to use some sort of a press. I really think it's humanly impossible to force the mounting points to align.
I hate taking the bike to the shop to get that done.
How about nylon rope instead of plasticine? Move the piston down into the bore, then cut a few feet of nylon rope and coil it inside the bore on top of the piston. Reinstall head, then kick gently as suggested by feetupfun
Yes, that's exactly what I did. It took several kicks but it finally came off.
I can't remove the cylinder off my 315r no matter how hard I try. The cylinder head came off without any problem, but the cylinder doesn't budge. I've hit it with a rubber mallet from every possible angle and it hardly moves. I removed the 4 nuts that hold it down. Is there a trick to removing the cylinder or should I keep hitting it with the mallet ?
Hi cant seem to find the correct size fork seal for a 2002 315r with the newer forks, the bluey petroly looking ones. I was told they were 38x50x8/9.5 whatever that means, but the ones I was given are a different size than the ones that are currently on the bike.
Sounds to me like its the tophat thing under the the return spring. You really need to take it off and examine if the keyway piece in it is actually broken or not.
Is there a trick for removing that tophat part off ? It seems to be stucked in there pretty good.
Just to rule out a few things... can you shift gears normally with the engine turned off and rocking the bike forward/backward a little to help engage the gears?
Does the shifter feel normal when you do this? ie: does it have the spring back to the neutral position, or does it feel like there is something preventing it from springing back ?
I can shift some gears normally, others take a lot of rocking back and forth. When this happens the shift lever doesn't reach the end of its range of motion. It's like something is preventing from going all the way up (when up shifting) or all the way down (when down shifting). However, I'm always able to shift gears... eventually.
The shifter always springs back to the neutral position. It's the other direction that has problems. It can't reach the end of its range of motion.
but if the shift centering spring is set correctly and the spring bushing/centering spring is in good shape, you may need to go inside the engine and look for bent shifting forks or a bent/broken limiting roller or roller springtab inside the shift drum.
It looks like I'm out of luck and will have to split the cases.
I'll decide if I want to do the job myself after watching the engine stripdown video. I'm a little worried since I've never done this before and I'm not sure I'll be able to correctly identify the parts that need replacing.
My 2007 300Pro has developed some difficulty to change gears that has progressively gotten worse. At first it was just difficult to up shift from 2nd to 3rd, but now it's difficult to up shift and down shift to several gears.
I tried adjusting the shift lever return mechanism by turning the oblong piece behind the clutch basket to no avail. Some gears work fine, but then other gears won't engage no matter the position of the oblong piece.
Is there anything I can check before I split the cases ? I read that there's a piece that can break and be replaced by just removing the clutch basket, but I can't see what that would be. Everything looks good as far as I can tell.
Balance training
in Trials Training And Technique
Posted
I had never seen balance training like this. I think it would be beneficial for trials.